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Ok, thanks....I will give it a try. Yeah I remember 15-20 years ago, you could walk up to the parts counter and you'd find a guy dying to help you and he would already know your problem before you even finished explaining it.. someone who had been in the trenches. Now, they hire anyone who can point...

The one closest to radiator facing forward on driver side...

Thanks Rettax3. Would you believe the Autozone guy told me that they couldn't test my battery, alternator etc. because the battery has side post terminals and that their test clamps can't properly grip the small bolts on side terminals. I said "WHATTT"!!! Anyway, what I meant on previous p...

Thanks guys for your help and suggestions. I'll post back with any results I get. Just wondering if anyone was able to remove and clean the engine grounding bolt and cable (which runs from the negative battery terminal) and how so. Thanks again !!

Thanks Rettax3. Can you tell me where the sense wire runs to and from? The voltage reg. is internal on my alternator, right? I saw a voltage reg. sold separately, but I believe it was for certain 4 cyl models. Anyway, sometimes my voltage under load is as low as 12.50v at idle and up to 15.20v when ...

Hey all ! Trying to figure out why my battery light is flickering. At a red light with headlights/brake lights and ac on, batt light turns off. Once accelerating, local and on highway, batt light flickers anywhere between dim and bright. Tested voltage under load at alternator (14.20 at idle/15.20 @...

Ok, thanks. I thought maybe someone had found a better spot for it. I'm sure it's never been touched, but I'll try to get at it and try to sand it or rough it up with something with an extension. It looks as if the cable is also clipped to the block right at that bolt..can you confirm that and if so...

Hey guys. I noticed recently that the bolt that grounds my negative battery cable to the engine block is all corroded and is probably at least in part responsible for a flickering battery light. Anyway I would like to remove the bolt and clean up the connection. I believe I can get a socket in there...

Ok, thanks. Today here in NY it was a much cooler 65-70° and car ran absolutely perfect at idle and while driving even with a/c on. It ran so smooth and quiet just as it would after a tuneup. But man, add on another 10° of outside temp and it gets real cranky. There is just that one mystery componen...

Thanks for the IAC and o2 sensor info. I have a new IAC waiting to go in, but you're right, anything I attempt as a repair is just a shot in the dark. But eventually, one will hit and I will take note and learn for next time. Anyway, In my ongoing quest to resolve this problem, I'm also going to che...

Ok, I'll try that.. thanks. If that doesn't work, should I consider the ignition coils? I've heard that the coils in these cars are subject to more heat stress due to where they are positioned under the hood causing them to fail. Today it reached 92° outside and the hotter it gets, the more this car...

Ok, so a few weeks ago I changed the coolant temp sensor and checked the fuel pressure regulator. The regulator was bone dry and had no strong gas odor. The vacuum line to it is also good. Today, the temp outside reached 80° and the car stalled out twice- once at a stop light and the other on a slow...

Ok thanks 3X00 for the great info. I will check the things you mentioned first and will report back.

There is no check engine light illuminated (the light itself does work though). Car ran fine all through the extreme cold of the NY winter, but the past few days have been warmer and the car kind of changed with the weather. Overall though I,d say car runs better in the cold. It stalled out once on ...

Hello my Beretta friends!! I have a problem which just started happening out of nowhere. It's a 95 V6 3.1 with 44,000 miles. Earlier in the week it was running just fine but now all of the sudden, it has developed a rough idle condition accompanied by a chimney-like, sooty smell from the exhaust but...