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I used header wrap to protect my shifter cables, on my 88 2.8/5 spd, when I installed the headers and never had a burn thru or melt in the 16 yrs that the headers were on the car. I just wrapped them and used copper wire to hold the ends closed. The tubes that Chris links to should work just as well.

The rear is convoluted but so are these!

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/exhausttech.htm

IsaacHayes wrote:The rear is convoluted though... Much better to run the primaries of the rear straight back down and join the front to it under the car like SuperDave's. The front design is great though.

Well, this pic is from the original owner/creator of them when they were new... http://wrx-now.tripod.com/assorted/headers.jpg I can snap a couple more of them from all angles though. I've been away for awhile. I saw the link but it does not work anymore. I posted 3 more pictures of the headers whe...

Nice headers! Too bad they are not mine.

Sounds like bad wires or dirty corroded wires. If there is any resistence to power flow the starter does not get enough to turn over the engine. Remember a starter can draw to same power as a 7 horse motor if the engine is a little tight or the starter is tired (ie needs bushings)

In hitting the starter you caused the armature to move a little bit. Therefore the brushes came to rest on different contacts. This means the there is a bad winding in the armature. Time to replace the starter. At anytime the starter will stop turning and land in the same place as before. Carry the ...

First thing. Check to see if your fuses are intact. Without power from the Ignition switch to the soleniod there is a no start condition! Next check for 12 volts at the Purple wire that is going to the soleniod. This wire comes from the ignition switch and relayed thru the neutral start switch. 12 v...

Not to be a wise guy, but just use an exhaust gasket or take a rubbing of the exhaust manifold or the mounting surface of the cylinder head. That was what I had done in making the flanges for my headers.

Check out my posting called "header pics" in the exhaust section. I used 1.5" pipe and placed the O2 sensor where it would see the two banks as well as possible. The header are coated in and out which helps in keeping the heat in, and the engine runs cooler as well!

Currently I am not looking at building headers due to time. Building a house and that is a huge adventure of time and $$$$. But in the future???

The car was converted to Speed Density from MAF after several failures of the MAF while under warranty. This involved a PROM change and the MAF stayed in place as it had the MAT sensor built in. I installed a new MAT sensor by the new air filter and removed the no longer needed MAF sensor.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I made this set for myself. Back in '92 they were $400 for the parts and JetHot coating. My labour and help from a good TIG welder and a bottle of Crown Royal. Im glad that it did cause interest on your part. The Primary tubes are 1.5", with the frt set 32&quo...

Actually I had only seen 2 cars to date that had this kit put on. Both from my dealer. My car and a white car that lost it's nose piece after a couple of winters. The kit is from 3M and was installed by an outfit called TrimLine at the dealership. I was working at the dealership in the parts dept so...

Yeap, original owner. This spring the car is going in for body repair and paint. The foam around the fuel door reinforcement panel did its job. Hold the water and rust the panel! Excellent stuff. GM should be proud. Typical rust at the fender to plastic facia interface and the rockers are starting t...

I had made these pipes way back in 1992. I had kept alot of the articles out of Hot Rod etc that talked about building your own headers and also talked to tech people at Hooker/Hedman and others for their ideas and tips, (flange thickness for one and pipe length/OD). I used heavy wire to represent t...