Control Arm Bushings

[toddsyx66]

I need to replace the control arm bushings on my 94 Z26. My Chilton's says that I have to have them done by a dealer. Is this true? If at all possible I would rather do it myself.
Thanks Everyone for your time!

[Cliff8928]

Yeah, you can do them yourself.   They're pressed in.

[KillerofRice]

Yes it can be done you just need a control arm bushing press. I just replaced my 90 GTZ control arm bushings and I used c-clamps and a ball joint press. I wouldn't recommend it but I got them in. I was told by my neighbors that an a-arm press runs about $200-$300 I could be way off so check out what one would cost. I don't know if you could rent one from an auto parts store. Good luck.

[toddsyx66]

Thanks for the help. The whole suspension is shot in this beast. The bushings are the only thing I had a question about. I love cars that haven't been maintained in 155,000.

Thanks again

[smitty286]

A little late to this party, but thought I might contribute my $.02 (been through this once on my own Beretta, and several times with other FWD GMs that use the same basic design):

* The front control arm bushing is easy enough to do with a balljoint press - mine (which seems to be the "standard" size for these things) was actually just a hair too small to completely press the old bushing all the way out, but it got it 95% of the way there; a couple good whacks with a hammer and it popped right out.  You can use the same tool to press the new one in, but you need to cheat and use it without the centering "puck" for the first few turns.

* The rear bushing is easiest to do if it's already failed (ie, the rubber has torn out  leaving only the metal ring captive in the control arm, which is how they usually go).  Use the corner of a cold chisel to bend the edge of the ring in toward the center of the hole, away from the control arm (being careful not to damage the arm itself).  Keep working this same point inward until you split the ring or (preferably) fold it far enough into itself that you can just tap it out.  

If the rubber is still bonded to the ring, it's a little tougher (I had no luck on this one with my balljoint press); I DID get good results drilling out large sections of the rubber with a 1/2" drill (in a drill press - the rubber's surprisingly tough, and will test your stamina if you use a hand drill), tearing the remaining "chunk" free with a screwdriver through the bolt hole, and removing the ring with the method previously described.  I've also heard of people melting the rubber out with a torch - this is probably faster, but I have to imagine the amount of smoke and stench would be prohibitive for the average DIYer.

A press isn't needed to install the new rear bushing - just tap it in firmly with a hammer moving gradually around the circumference of the bushing (like you're putting the lid on a paint can).

* CHECK THE FRONT CONTROL ARM BOLT FOR WEAR; for some reason (on my '94, anyway) this bolt is threaded all the way down its length, which means that only the very crown of that thread forms a bearing surface against the metal sleeve inside the front bushing.  Over time, in spite of the comparatively low stresses, these threads will wear away due to the small contact area and corrosion, effectively reducing the bolt's diameter and allowing radial "slop"  that a new bushing won't fix (saw this same issue on a Venture van I worked on just a little while ago).  The rear bolt isn't affected because it's not a pivot, just an attachment point.  I would also imagine the rear axle attachment bolts might also be at risk for this problem (I actually have a bit of a slop problem there now, waiting for the springtime to check it out).  Obviously, any replacement hardware should be ISO 10.9, and would ideally be threaded only on the end to prevent a recurrence of the same issue.  A self-locking nut is also a must.

[samuel adams]

I know you can find a new set for cheap on e-bay, very quick replacement. I think worth the hassle, I did 1 a while ago.