Front sway bar - direct acting vs normal
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2016 4:47 pm
First, this isn't for my Beretta, but it does spawn some theory which is why I'm bringing it to the forum.
So, for those of you that don't know, a direct acting sway bar is one that had end links which attach to the strut housing (or a bracket that comes off the strut knuckle bolts). (FE7 on our cars - GTZ's, Indy's, and W26's had this)
What I refer to as a "normal" sway bar is one where the end links bolt through the control arm. (Standard FE1/FE2/FE3/F41 suspension on our cars)
Is there a point based on vehicle weight/weight distribution that the direct acting becomes less effective than a normal bar, or would a direct acting bar always be the more neutral handling choice?
I want less understeer and a more balanced feel. Obviously there are other factors at play here (tire size, strut valving, spring rates, etc.
And yes, this is for my Montana minivan. Don't judge.
So, for those of you that don't know, a direct acting sway bar is one that had end links which attach to the strut housing (or a bracket that comes off the strut knuckle bolts). (FE7 on our cars - GTZ's, Indy's, and W26's had this)
What I refer to as a "normal" sway bar is one where the end links bolt through the control arm. (Standard FE1/FE2/FE3/F41 suspension on our cars)
Is there a point based on vehicle weight/weight distribution that the direct acting becomes less effective than a normal bar, or would a direct acting bar always be the more neutral handling choice?
I want less understeer and a more balanced feel. Obviously there are other factors at play here (tire size, strut valving, spring rates, etc.
And yes, this is for my Montana minivan. Don't judge.