Beretta.net

Looking for someone who has some recent experience with painting a Beretta. Going to start on some restoration on mine here soon and just want to make sure I have everything addressed (rather, make sure I don't miss anything important to have done).

Going to have the car mounted on a rotisserie, bead blasted, have the rust repaired, remove all windows and molding, 3 stage painted, and reassembled. I'll have removed the engine, fuel system, interior, dash, wiring, and pretty much everything else I can think of.

I'm working on the contract for the paint shop now so any tips would be appreciated!

I wish this was as popular as the same FB post

Facebook is "easier" to use and that's why no one uses the forum... Sad because the info on the fb group disappears and is hard to search.

I still maintain that I'd do the physical body prep/paint work myself! After helping Andy with his a couple weeks back here is what I'd do:

- Strip the car down as you've mentioned
- Repair rust (professionally if you have to)
- Have the body and underside blasted (stripping paint to bare metal by hand SUCKS)
- Put a seal coat on the body and then sand/prep using a guide coat
- Prep/paint the car yourself

My reasoning? Honestly, it's not rocket science and if you prep the car well (which you'll be able to verify with a guide coat and block sand) you'll get very, very nice results - even from your garage!

I know time is one thing we all run out of but when I redo my cars I'm going to do them myself. In 2011 I spent over $11,000 to have my SRT and F350 completely repainted after surviving a hail storm. I was excruciatingly specific (provided detailed lists) with how I wanted things done (everything removed, etc) and I was absolutely disgusted with what I got in return. Fresh from paint everything looked fine but after everything cured and shrunk you could see sanding/DA marks over everything. They neglected to prep things the way I'd ask for and lots of things suffered. For spending the amount I did I expected wayyyyyy better. The SRT is sold so I don't care any more but who knows how long the paint on my truck will stick and how it will look in 5+ years.

...on the other side of things - Andy spent <$200 on paint prep materials (sanding discs, stripper, filler) and put the majority of the money into paint. He bought PPG's upper line of base coat along with clear, primer/sealer and everything else needed. Spent about $1200 on those materials alone (1 gal of paint was $500+). I think the outcome was radically better than the "professional" job I paid so much for. Seeing how the body was prepared and seeing the entire process from start to finish, know that finish will look fantastic for the next few decades.

Just my $0.02. I don't take my car to anyone to get worked on because I know they won't put the attention to detail into it that I do -- I'm beginning to convert my thinking on paint jobs to this logic as well.

Just out of curiosity, were you happy with the paintjob on your white 92 GTZ? Is the guy still in business?

I'll copy & paste my fb comments to keep it documented! haha

Epoxy it after it is blasted. That's the best base layer. Lizard Skin is a good idea too. I just coated the Camaro with the LS thermal and sound insulation when it was on the rotisserie. Wish I had done it with the Beretta too when I had it apart.

I welded the seams of what would be basically a "torque box" where the engine and trans mounts are as well as the suspension points. Didnt do much other than that because it doesn't weld for crap without stripping the galvanizing and I didn't have my car blasted. I looked for a good place to run "subframe connectors" and there really isn't any. GM did a pretty good just of using up all the real estate. Some day I'd like to try structural foam down the rockers and in the unibody rails.

The cowl & firewall resealing is super important. These were garbage in that regard from the factory. The support plate on the firewall is one of the major leak points. That and the vertical seam that runs from the wheel well to the firewall.