Page 5 of 8

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated Feb 20th, 2012

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:45 pm
by ShaneLT(ShaneZ26)
looking good man. cant wait to see what ur doing with the euro tails.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated Feb 20th, 2012

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:48 pm
by Styluss
DONE! I will remove mine and get them in the mail... sometime before the fest!

But I want them CLEAR!!! :sparta:

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated Feb 20th, 2012

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:11 pm
by 3X00-Modified
Better to have them orange since the LED strips themselves are not white/clear so you will see the ribbon's behind the clear lens.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated Feb 20th, 2012

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 5:51 pm
by DTMAce
Painting those black. In fact the entire backing will be black. so no problem.

But Ryan, I don't recommend clear, but I will recommend this.

I can make the running light portion in the lower intensity white, and just the turn/hazard LEDs would be orange. What do you think?

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated Feb 20th, 2012

Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:23 pm
by Styluss
When have I ever heeded your recommendations? ;)

Ace, my original thought on how to piece them together was to place 3 strips of lights, but now that we know 5 will fit, 5 will be even better! 5 strips of lights, 3 are constantly on and 2 more come on for the "on" of the blinker. I'm not sure how the 2 different degrees of brightness will work, so I definitely want to see yours lit up once they are complete.

Either way, I will want a set.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated Feb 20th, 2012

Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 6:08 pm
by DTMAce
Except you have that backwards. 2 strips on all the time, 3 with the blinkers. You want the lights noticed when you are turning, especially in the day time. And I might be able to get 6 strips to fit... But not sure yet. I like the idea of the 5 as it is though. That is 30 LEDs per light as it is now.

I picked up some acrylic based flat black paint to cover the circuit strips with once the wiring is completed. This will hide and blend everything in, without causing shorts or problems with the electrical stuff. Once its assembled and the silicone is cured, then I will be masking off the lens portion and painting the entire light with a satin based black.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:32 am
by DTMAce
I have updated the first post with some new information. More to come on the Z04 front lamps hopefully later this week. Once I have time to finish them. lol

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:37 am
by greyfox
When you say the circuitry are you referring to adding resistors to create the correct resistance so the car doesn't think the bulbs are out in addition to changing it to the correct voltage and amperage for the LED's? Also do you have the LED's in series or parallel?

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:40 am
by DTMAce
I am using 12v powered LED strips for most of the custom work. Resistors are only required for the 1157 bulb locations. All others do not need resistors. And in some cases the resistors aren't needed if you use an LED compatible flasher, however with our cars it may not correct the dash from telling you that there are lights out, and/or the ABS system on our cars may not recognize the flasher as telling the ABS there are brake bulbs in place. As far as I know with the ABS equipped vehicles, when you pull the tail bulbs the ABS light comes on when you turn on the lights. Once I dropped in load resistors that cured that problem. But I have not tried an electronic flasher in my Z yet, which I plan to do this spring.

As for how they are wired. Resistors go in parallel with the light, so technically they can be added anywhere you have access to the wiring. I have two mounted on the front steel bumper hooked right to the light harnesses and 4 mounted to the driver's side deck-lid hinge support tapping the harness for the rear bulbs. (1 for each 1157 bulb)

Side markers, backup lamps, license plate, etc do not need a resistor, just plug in and go. With the custom lights I build, most are simple direct connect, meaning they can be plugged right into the existing connector. 3rd brake lights are a bit more difficult, but only slightly. I provide what you need to hook them up too.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 12:52 pm
by 1990BerettaGTZ2.3L
rettagurl wrote:Chad only the coolest most excellent people in the world drive Dodges. The Chevy guys just buy what they can afford, only the elite can afford a Dodge...haha

I dunno about pulling around my truck is a fat arse...haha



So what if I hate dodges and fords love Chevys but want to put a 12 valve cummins in a 73-91 old body style crew cab chevy is this wrong or what lol

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 1:00 pm
by 1990BerettaGTZ2.3L
How much for a set of clear front side markers with amber LEDs the brightest one you got, and a set of clear rears with red LEDs the bright ones also of course and a 3rd brake conversion done my lense is nice it's just the rest is crap let me know names Ryan thanks


DTMAce wrote:I am using 12v powered LED strips for most of the custom work. Resistors are only required for the 1157 bulb locations. All others do not need resistors. And in some cases the resistors aren't needed if you use an LED compatible flasher, however with our cars it may not correct the dash from telling you that there are lights out, and/or the ABS system on our cars may not recognize the flasher as telling the ABS there are brake bulbs in place. As far as I know with the ABS equipped vehicles, when you pull the tail bulbs the ABS light comes on when you turn on the lights. Once I dropped in load resistors that cured that problem. But I have not tried an electronic flasher in my Z yet, which I plan to do this spring.

As for how they are wired. Resistors go in parallel with the light, so technically they can be added anywhere you have access to the wiring. I have two mounted on the front steel bumper hooked right to the light harnesses and 4 mounted to the driver's side deck-lid hinge support tapping the harness for the rear bulbs. (1 for each 1157 bulb)

Side markers, backup lamps, license plate, etc do not need a resistor, just plug in and go. With the custom lights I build, most are simple direct connect, meaning they can be plugged right into the existing connector. 3rd brake lights are a bit more difficult, but only slightly. I provide what you need to hook them up too.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 2:15 pm
by DTMAce
DTMAce wrote:Currently Available Builds for sale:

Side Markers. Price includes the following:

Price is $115.00 per completed set. If you do not need the pigtails (in case of bad connectors) the price is $75.00 per completed set. If you need me to provide the markers, then add $20.00 to the order. Average price for a used marker light is $5 bucks.

GTZ/Z26 (Z04) 3rd Brake Spoiler Light. Price Includes:

Price is $55 per converted light. Combine markers and 3rd brake together, save $20.00 bucks.

Updates today February 18th: I have switched to using a brighter LED strip light for rear or front facing lights. [b]The side markers do not need this change, as they are bright enough as is. This is primarily aimed at 3rd brake lights, front or rear tail mods. The new lights are about 2-3 times brighter than the strips I have been using, with no change as to the quantity per inch or the width/thickness of the strip. They do however use more power and actually produce heat. My suggested usage would be with braking or turn lights, as they would not be on for long periods. Questions, please visit the last page or send me an PM.



Now, to add to this. Prices are listed as built, providing you ship me the original housings to convert. Meaning clear sidemarker lamps and the 3rd brake light.

I know you can buy the clear markers new on ebay for around 40-50 bucks for the set of 4. Or at least I know they were there. Or someone here may have a set to sell. So that price is NOT included with the conversion. If you want me to buy them for you, then I will get you a current price on a set and add that price to the total.

You do not need the high intensity lights in the sidemarkers for 2 reasons:

1: The lights I have been using are plenty bright with 12 LEDs in each marker and.
2: The newer lights run hotter, and with the slim design of the sidemarkers, I don't think having a hotter set of LEDs in them are going to be good for the long run.

Otherwise, if you are dead set and think you have to have them, then add 20 bucks to the price. The brighter ones do cost more. Ask Styluss if the lights are bright enough with the regular ones. His lights up the road on both sides of the car. lol

Anyway, total of pricing as listed above would be the $115 + the $55 - combo discount of $20 = $150 shipped. That's assuming you will ship me the housings to convert
them. Otherwise will have to add whatever the cost of the clear housings are to the total. And if you must have the brighter LEDs in the sidemarkers, that's an additional 20. But I don't think you will need them, honest. And, keep in mind if the OEM bulb sockets on your car are junk, you can wire these direct and save 40 bucks. Those pigtails are a pain to make! lol

Mine were soldered and heat shrinked. The lights are slim enough, they can slide right through the bumper cover holes if you ever had to take a bumper cover off later or something.

Anyways, let me know, just hit me with a PM.

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 2:22 pm
by DTMAce

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 10:46 pm
by 1990BerettaGTZ2.3L
Ok cool, just to make sure I think the clear fronts are the same as rear the rear right is mainly the color that separates the factory from interchanging, and on the marker pigtails I'm gonna try to get a 2 wire male and female plug I can splice in my harness for a nice factory looking quick disconnect I hope the fronts and rears are the sake though causevik about to buy 2 pairs

Re: Custom LED Light Builds - Updated March 20th, 2012

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 12:07 am
by DTMAce
They are made the same for the clears, but if you hold an OEM front and rear together (red and yellow), the red ones for the rear are about 3/16" longer. The clears are the shorter size. But its not that noticeable once installed. I mean I didn't even know till I held them side by side.

As for the pigtails, that means you are making your own? So then the price would drop 40 bucks! You will just have a red and black wire to connect to your setup then. Be around 4-6 inches in length. I will even throw in some heat shrink tubing for them! Stock harness wiring are usually blue/brown with blue being the positive, but in any case, its usually the lighter color is positive, darker color is negative. If you hook these up backwards, they just won't light, you won't hurt them. If that happens, you reverse the setup and you will be fine. The 3rd brake wires are both black (at least on my Z they were), so that one may be a guess. lol

So if we are doing it that way, then it would just be $110 bucks for all those lights. Sounds good, let me know. And let me know soon, my window before beretta fest is closing.