Beretta.net

LOL

I know what I was saying. He was asking about using the existing wiring to reach the existing dash speaker locations, instead of having to run new wiring. Yeah, sure, if you are going for real custom, then yes, you should probably run new wiring..

That being said.

My first setup, involved 2 50W amps. One was under the dash and FED the original speaker wires. What I had at that time, was I tapped the front feeds from the OEM radio using a male and female adapter to make the connections, ran them to a 50W AMP, fed that to a passive 2 way crossover (for each channel) then fed the original 4 speakers with the output. Highs up front, Lows in back. Then ran a separate feed to the amp/sub from the rear out of the radio. I was also keeping everything at 4-8 ohm at all times. I ran that setup for a while, then went to a heavier amp for the sub, then finally switched over to a better HU with separate outs for speakers AND amp, switched over from speaker wires to line level coax cable for the rear sub and vola. Much better.

So YES it can be done and YES it may not work for everyone.

Think what's even sadder? I still HAVE that crossover setup in storage. It was "plug n play" designed, so when I removed it, it just went into a box..

well i dont wanna put pics up yet caz my system aint all here yet but here is what i got going in as of Monday. 0 gauge wires a Lanzar 2 Ch 2000 Watt Viberant MOSFET Amplifier a 2200 watt lanzar compition sub and a jvc head unit

Better add a 200 amp alternator to that list, along with a second battery. LOL

lol u think ill relly need that? n were do u think i could get a 200 amp alternator?

You can find them all over theres aftermarket companys that will build your needs. Aswell as you can put a power cap on a not have to worry about it better amp would be better if you can find one defentally not the low 85amp.

And yeah I was talking about just runing from amp to deck and tap those front wires if I have to take a lot out to get access to them. I would imagine passenger side would be easy but drivers I would assume would involve removing the gage cluster and I know it's not hard but it's not something I readly want to do. So I figure just cross back down the floor pannels where the power wire runs and just dump up above the the pedals under that lower dash cover. That way I dont have to worry about mashing up my dash any more then it already is.

Polk Audio 4x6's (front)
Pioneer 6x9's (rear deck)
Eclipse CD4000 HU
Dual 460w Amp
2 12inch Sony Xplod
Large Bandpass Box (highly recommend to any Beretta owners out there)

I know audio very well and these subs and amp are shitty but with this bandpass box it probably sounds better than most of the systems on this site (yeah i know it sounds cocky and sure i dont know for a fact) but bandpass box sounds the best in trunk cars and i know it sounds great in my car.

I get many compliments and many people are shocked! when they see that i have sony xplods and running only 460w's

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/product ... amily_Id=2
These are the subs I want to buy. Read about how they are made Mike. They make everything else look like junk(and they are). Thanks to Isaac for finding these.

Money pit Beretta wrote:http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/product ... amily_Id=2
These are the subs I want to buy. Read about how they are made Mike. They make everything else look like junk(and they are). Thanks to Isaac for finding these.

heh there are wayyyy to many brands out there that can either compete or even blow out those sub

Really. They are built way better than any of the big name brands. And I'm also talking about price. I have an Mpyre 6.5 midwoofer that beats most of the big name 10's and some 12's. Again that would be the low price stuff. I paid 150 for it.

Money pit Beretta wrote:Really. They are built way better than any of the big name brands. And I'm also talking about price. I have an Mpyre 6.5 midwoofer that beats most of the big name 10's and some 12's. Again that would be the low price stuff. I paid 150 for it.

true true

What are you going to get Mike?

im good with my system..i might upgrade my rear speakers and add an amp for my interior speakers

Ok cool guess it's pic time or we are off topic.

When I get time the system that was in my red car is going in Pinky... No sense in wasting all that power

I'll just have to make the subs quick disconnect so I can pull them at the track... Unfortunately I'll have to deal with the extra weight from the amps and wire... It's actually a good amount when you have it all in your hand and realize how much it weighs.

Ok a Little late but i figure what the heck, not professional but good for me for now..

Run down:
HU: Pioneer DEH-P9800BT
Front: JL Audio Components 6.5 and 1" tweeters (Kick panel and the tweeters are in the hole that the 91 black inter has were the seat belt went behind the seats)
Rear: JL Audio 6x9
Subs: 2xJL Audio 10w7 with box built to SEALED JL Specs
Amps: 1x JL Audio 1000/1 (subs) 1x JL Audio 500/5

Now before you all FLAME ME for the CAP!!! I just hooked it up because it came with the amp kit for the 500/5 so since i paid for it I used it CAPS do literally almost NOTHING for a system. Long story short i didn't want to wait until they got more amp kits in so i bought the last one they had.

Wiring: 1/0 Gauge to the rear distro then 4G out to amps and compressor for the airbags. Its Funny I put a 200Amp Alternator and it still dims the lights WAY down.....

Alright picture time: