Beretta.net

Well Bill has the trans apart right now as it happens, so it's getting the best parts he can find.

And if I can keep the screws out of the intake charge I'm pretty sure I can avoid what unfortunately happened to Barry.

The shift light is staying at 6,000, and at that point I'm pretty sure it will live on 8 or 9 pounds of boost.. (That should be enough). It's not like I drive like a maniac on the street every day.

And if I blow it up, I get to do it again. The $3K is not set in stone. Whatever it takes, it takes. Wiseco Pistons is just 65 miles down the road.

As hard as Mars is on his car (cammed 3400 rotrex blower), I think the stock stuff is fine unless you get one that is just weak or your tune is not good.
He has been to the track MANY times and daily drives his car... The axles/trans are the weak link.

Eric, how many times has that trans been apart? LOL damn. I know you say it's bullet proof and all but what is the longest it's gone without being touched?

EDIT: Jon, what is the specs on your cam? JohnnyMossiville fired his up when it was below freezing and it idled fine.

IsaacHayes wrote:EDIT: Jon, what is the specs on your cam? JohnnyMossiville fired his up when it was below freezing and it idled fine.

216/240 .050 dur .517/.568 lift 112LSA

I do not have an even duration or even lift, I'm willing to be that has something to do with it.

What did he have his cold idle set for? Like I said it could be something as simple as I have the requested Idle for that temp too low, so it starts to lope almost die and then just surges.

It may also be that my TB is closed too much which can reek havoc on an IAC's ability to control the idle.

3X00-Modified wrote:

IsaacHayes wrote:EDIT: Jon, what is the specs on your cam? JohnnyMossiville fired his up when it was below freezing and it idled fine.

216/240 .050 dur .517/.568 lift 112LSA

I do not have an even duration or even lift, I'm willing to be that has something to do with it.

What did he have his cold idle set for? Like I said it could be something as simple as I have the requested Idle for that temp too low, so it starts to lope almost die and then just surges.

It may also be that my TB is closed too much which can reek havoc on an IAC's ability to control the idle.

Does your log show you how many steps the IAC is open? You have a great point about the TB being too far closed, the IAC may be at the end of its range(all the way open). Sounds pretty reasonable to me.
Cant hurt to just bump the thottle stop up a turn or 2.

900 RPM, but I'm not sure what the ECM commands at cold temps, so I'll have to open up his bin again and go through it. Timing can make a big difference in idle too, may want to look into that.

Flat out stellar time by Rodney. Nice to see somebody getting a Beretta up to the level that several of the v6z24 guys have been at for a few years now. Can't wait to see how next year goes!

Eric - are you still thinking of doing a J or Delta 3500 car, or this all about getting the Beretta fast now?

i hope its the beretta and not another j as their is plenty of jbod movin quick we need more berettas

A Cobalt/Pursuit really makes no sense, and loses the "Beretta WOW Factor". You can buy a 13 second Cobalt.

If I can find a white Sunfire I may buy it just for the swap.

The Blue car will live on it seems, and it's gonna be quick!

Just think! (And with all due respect buddy) I have Rodney corralled in the garage we are sharing, and he HAS the parts requirements AND the tune for a turbo 3500!!

About 5 months 'til the roll-out!

EDIT I should add that I was speaking with Billy today as my car is all torn apart in his shop (Mr. Transmission, Milton Ont. "shameless plug") and he says he can build the 3t40 to withstand up to 600 HP which I will never get close to.

NOW. Can I hook it up?

IsaacHayes wrote:
Eric, how many times has that trans been apart? LOL damn. I know you say it's bullet proof and all but what is the longest it's gone without being touched?

.

Other than fluid and filter changes every 3 or 4 months, this one has not been apart in three years and about 1000 runs. It's only apart now because it broke an axle, AND that was my fault. Car had no business being out on that track.

However I had intended to have it gone through over the winter anyway.

FWIW clutches look like new!

IsaacHayes wrote:900 RPM, but I'm not sure what the ECM commands at cold temps, so I'll have to open up his bin again and go through it. Timing can make a big difference in idle too, may want to look into that.

I will check all of the above, AFTER I get the damn thing to pass emissions... Every flash resets my driving cycles, and I am trying to get my readyness sensors to only have two not ready... right now its three...

3X00-Modified wrote:

IsaacHayes wrote:900 RPM, but I'm not sure what the ECM commands at cold temps, so I'll have to open up his bin again and go through it. Timing can make a big difference in idle too, may want to look into that.

I will check all of the above, AFTER I get the damn thing to pass emissions... Every flash resets my driving cycles, and I am trying to get my readyness sensors to only have two not ready... right now its three...

did you try the setting everything to 3. found that on DHP forum.
i did it and when i went for the re inspection it passed. thats what they initially failed me for too, but mine was basically the same as i just hooked th battery up and drove out there.

i plan on doing the same when i go to get the sticker next year. dont know if i wanna go in January when the sticker expires or wait till its warm.

Yes, only thing that's disabled is code 140 and 300, and those are set for 3... EVERYTHING else is 100% fully functional on that car, Evap EGR everything.... BUT the O2 heater shows up not ready the EGR shows up not ready and so does Catalyst... My red car, only EGR and Heater show up not ready which is odd mostly for the EGR since that's fully functional in that too... O2 heater I can understand since it not even plugged in.

So I know in just a duration of time the catalyst monitor will eventually go to ready, but I'm not sure how long that takes. Its not as quick on the 97 ecm apparently.

Last time I did what you described it got a readiness failure, but was given the alternative of the pipe sniffer test, which it passed with flying colors... but it noted that next test it has to pass the readiness option.

when i first failed the guy that gave me the R sticker said something about running it through a couple tanks of gas.
but thats about 500+ if its satisfied. i didnt have that much time since the old sticker expired like 2 years before.

they dont do the sniffer stuff in mass anymore on anything thats older than 96. its something stupid but as long as the car isnt smoking like cheech and chong and all your lights work your good.

with the grand am all they do is plug the thing in under the dash and check the lights and jack the car up. they didnt even pop the hood which they use to.

next time i go down ill check the inspection paper and see what it says. the only thing he said to me as i was leaving was to fix the exhaust leak which wont seal for crap. its right where the rear header bolts to the downpipe. might just weld it and make it one.

Gave up on N/a cars years ago in regards to my really fast heads up cars. Turbos are great and capable of serious power compared to the others.
But be warned-it gets expensive real quick. This coming from a guy who owns 4 forced induction cars/trucks and has owned 20 turbo cars since 1995.

Good luck with yours!

asylum wrote:
EDIT I should add that I was speaking with Billy today as my car is all torn apart in his shop (Mr. Transmission, Milton Ont. "shameless plug") and he says he can build the 3t40 to withstand up to 600 HP which I will never get close to.

NOW. Can I hook it up?

Really? What are the cons to this though? There has to be many catches/downsides to this pro/plus.

Will it be manual vb? Cost? Feasible?


To your last question. Yes, how much you have to spend?