Beretta.net

Good to hear you are still committed to this. I've been working a little on my FWD V-8 Beretta again recently -I'm redoing all the mounts that were in the car, and I still have to build a new oil-pan as the one that was on there was broken before I got it. Sadly, I think the engine may be seized, which kind of irritates me since it was supposed to be a good unit... It might have just sat too long, or maybe the bottom-end was toasted due to problems related to the broken oil-pan, maybe it is fine and just needs the kinks worked out of it to get it rolling, IDK. Continued good luck though, and congrats on the house, BTW. I'll keep watching for your updates...

small progress update.....Most bolt on exterior body panels removed, all interior removed, fire wall cleared,

got a reconditioned T56 6 speed and mocked up the manual pedals as im also doing a manual swap

reconditioned T56

Sweet deal! Can you do me a favor and measure the distance between the pivot point and attachment point for the clutch pedal? I'd like to figure out the stock 4th-gen pedal ratio and adjust mine to match while I have everything apart. Thanks.

woody90gtz wrote:Sweet deal! Can you do me a favor and measure the distance between the pivot point and attachment point for the clutch pedal? I'd like to figure out the stock 4th-gen pedal ratio and adjust mine to match while I have everything apart. Thanks.

Can u be more specific. The clutch pedal mounting point is on the fire wall where the master/slave cylinder pokes through and kinda also up top near where the steering column mounts.....im assuming u want to know how much travel the pedal has????

jjanke wrote:

woody90gtz wrote:Sweet deal! Can you do me a favor and measure the distance between the pivot point and attachment point for the clutch pedal? I'd like to figure out the stock 4th-gen pedal ratio and adjust mine to match while I have everything apart. Thanks.

Can u be more specific. The clutch pedal mounting point is on the fire wall where the master/slave cylinder pokes through and kinda also up top near where the steering column mounts.....im assuming u want to know how much travel the pedal has????

The attachment point for the clutch master cylinder rod to the pivot point...should be a couple inches I'd guess. And then also the total length of the pedal from the pivot point to the pedal pad. That would be sweet.

The clutch pedal on my 6spd swap lets out right at the top, where the other 3 manual Chevys I have it lets out in the middle. Makes the Camaro tougher to drive until I get used to it again. haha

Thanks

Good luck! This project is very doable if you have the know how and time. Its going to be a challenge to stuff a 90* v8 in a beretta and retain power brakes and other things. I have a 60* v6 longitudinal in mine and space is already tight. I had to build a remote booster setup and lost my wiper motor in the process. The tunnel will have to be pretty large to retain a t56 while keeping decent ground clearance. This makes it nearly impossible to retain the stock heater/ac box.

Ill be watching!!

If it runs and drives and looks like the sketch, will be a sweet rig for doing burnouts! cannot wait best of luck

Barry wrote:Good luck! This project is very doable if you have the know how and time. Its going to be a challenge to stuff a 90* v8 in a beretta and retain power brakes and other things. I have a 60* v6 longitudinal in mine and space is already tight. I had to build a remote booster setup and lost my wiper motor in the process. The tunnel will have to be pretty large to retain a t56 while keeping decent ground clearance. This makes it nearly impossible to retain the stock heater/ac box.

Ill be watching!!

im not really stuffing anything in a beretta .......more like just doing a body swap........again, the Camaro floor and tunnel, fire wall inner fenders and pretty much everything suspension and drive train related are hopefully going to stay as one with some narrowing up to the unibody rails. so just the beretta body can be dropped on.

im also thinking im gonna have to kick the rear axle back about 2in cause somehow the wheel base on the beretta is longer in order to get the wheels centered in the wells

im hopefully not going to even take the motor out of the camaro. and yeah the ac/heat and duct work is not going back in and i have also considered not having wipers........ prob end up with just a wheel, shifter, e brake, pedals, cage and seats in the interior......

i hope ......im glad this is generating some interest and i will do my best to keep at it and keep everyone posted

the T56 is the tranny i plan on using.

my plan is to use whatever i can to keep the beretta looking stock, including tucking a roll cage into the A B and C pillars and covering them with interior panels.

the main difference is im not going to use a body from something else, instead im just going to gut the floor pan and make a rectangle channel outer frame to hold the rollcage, front, and rear tube subframes together.

Can't wait to see the pics! How is the project coming along?

some more up dates... completely striped down to the unibody from the fire wall back. all wiring, fuel lines and tank, rear end, suspension, exhaust and convertible top and hydrolics/pump. Im ready to brace the floor and cut off the body. due to some crunchy frame rails under the body i have also decided to replace the rails with some 3x2 box tube from the rear up to the fire wall to stiffen up the chassis and have something solid for the roll cage to tie into.

also cleaned up the axle and got 1" drop springs adjustable panhard bar and adjustable rear trailing arms.

its easy to take stuff apart.......the real fun is about to begin as i begin cutting on the two bodies............ again i will do my best to keep everyone updated