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^^^That, x2. Use a spot-weld drill bit (looks like a tiny hole-saw with its' own pilot-point spring-loaded in the center -even the Harbor Freight ones do a fantastic job), grind or sand down the sheetmetal left afterward, and use a decent steel to rebuild it. Getting something a little thicker ( even stainless steel, anyone??) would even improve the car over the original design, making it a little stiffer there. Good luck, coming along good still.

I just cut out the ends of the center tube since they were rotted, blew all the crap out of it and sprayed the inside down with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Before I start making my patches every rust spot under the car will be sprayed with it and then painted with acrylic lacquer.

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My hot mess of fuel and brake lines!



I also got in my new rear rotors, and the plates I'll be using to patch the spring towers.



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Doing good so far keep up the hard work I will be driving it before u know it

The hardest part is the whole "what can I do with what I have while I'm home" situation!

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Dem lines!



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Fuel lines are all fully ran! Next up, spring perches!





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That's a lot of work, I did mine a couple years ago. Looks like you used the cunifer line, worth the money imo.
How did you adapt to the quick connects near the filter? Looks like you used the Dorman adapter lines, that's what I did. The slickest way is with the mastercool flaring tool, but I didn't spring for that yet.

EPfiffner wrote:The slickest way is with the mastercool flaring tool, but I didn't spring for that yet.

Best tool I've ever bought... Perfect flares every time and so many options.

3X00-Modified wrote:

EPfiffner wrote:The slickest way is with the mastercool flaring tool, but I didn't spring for that yet.

Best tool I've ever bought... Perfect flares every time and so many options.

You were the one that recommended it when I was doing mine. I had trouble getting a good double flare on the cunifer even with a quality brand manual tool. Forget the brand, it's my dads, probably 35 years old before they costed everything out.

Makeshift spring towers made out of 1/8" target shooting plates, 1/8" welding steel made it into L brackets, and hockey pucks! These bad boys aren't moving!





Quick mock up of the new axle and disc conversion as well! Waiting on my new parking cables to come in next...





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Those mounts are pretty slick. Very cleanly built too. I would be concerned about using aluminum pop-rivets to keep them from moving under shearing load, but I guess you have it right on, they won't go anywhere, especially with the weight of the car pinned down on them and held up by the spring... Nice work.

Thanks man! I have the L brackets bolting to the underbody where you see the rivets on the underside. I used steel rivets too to be safe! I can't weld, so next best thing. Better than flimsy slabs of rotted metal, that's for sure.

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Nice! Steel rivets are a PITA to pull through without a pneumatic/hydraulic riveter, but worth the extra effort!

It was a royal pain in the ass! Surprised I didn't break my hand riveter...

Rettax3 wrote:Nice! Steel rivets are a PITA to pull through without a pneumatic/hydraulic riveter, but worth the extra effort!

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