Beretta.net

Jon while you have it apart cut those damn engine cover mounting tabs off the UIM.

Looks so much nicer.

3X00-Modified wrote:Whats your point... I don't see raspberry metallic on their color chart.

Referring to the Underhood black? 22 bux a can... Yikes.

Don't be a cheapskate LOL
You just said you didn't want to paint is Razberry, so why would you have thought I said that?
Eastwoods aero 2-K is such nice paint, 2 cans to do the whole bay, live alittle ya can't take it with ya

Eric, that intake isn't being used next year. Won't fit under the hood with the direct port spacers installed.

Not sure what I will do with the bay yet, still cleaning up some of the seams and then resealing it, I have time to think on it.

3X00-Modified wrote:Eric, that intake isn't being used next year. Won't fit under the hood with the direct port spacers installed.

Not sure what I will do with the bay yet, still cleaning up some of the seams and then resealing it, I have time to think on it.

I forgot your plenum spacers were so thick, i think mine are only 1/2"
You should have yours shaved down since you can still drill/tap/use a 1/8" NPT or 1/4" NPT with 9/16" thick aluminum spacers + the 3500 plenum

I'm not a huge fan of the 3500 plenum anyways, and there are mixed reviews about it flow wise and such... The nozzles are 1/16th NPT and they are already tapped in the spacer I thought about getting them shaved down some but I'm not sure. I also have to use gaskets so that adds thickness. I know yours are o-ringed and mine don't have cuts for that. So unless your feeling bored and want to o-ring and shave these spacers I'll probably stick with the 3100 large port upper intake.

3X00-Modified wrote:I'm not a huge fan of the 3500 plenum anyways, and there are mixed reviews about it flow wise and such... The nozzles are 1/16th NPT and they are already tapped in the spacer I thought about getting them shaved down some but I'm not sure. I also have to use gaskets so that adds thickness. I know yours are o-ringed and mine don't have cuts for that. So unless your feeling bored and want to o-ring and shave these spacers I'll probably stick with the 3100 large port upper intake.

Hah i got bored of machining the 2nd day i was here LOL
Yeah for boost in a turbo app obviously the 3400 UIM would be beneficial to add TQ because to the runners (VS the 3500 wide open space inside), but may hurt topend, for my S/C i feel it beneficial to get rid of as much TQ as possible everywhere in the engine..
For your case i'm not sure though, it may add 10-15hp, but in your case just add more NAAAZZZZZ

3500 isn't wide open, it's a tunnel from the inlet till about half way into the middle of the box, there are questions about poor flow to cylinders 5/6 because of the 180 degree direction change the air has to make.

VHT sells satin roll bar paint in a spray can as well, that's what I used in my bay, for reference.

Did the guy cutting apart that UIM - weld it back together?

Any better flow?

No he was making a SC mounting plate on the top of it.

So serious question here... With the lack of performance options for the 3500 what would you go with? Aftermarket replacement bearings and rings or go OEM GM stuff? I've been running clevite stuff on the pink car rod bearing wise, they are factory 04 mains and factory rings and pistons.

OEM, it's difficult to get the same life out of the aftermarket sometimes. I know you've built you're car to run, if I was you I'd just feel more comfortable going that route.

3X00-Modified wrote:So serious question here... With the lack of performance options for the 3500 what would you go with? Aftermarket replacement bearings and rings or go OEM GM stuff? I've been running clevite stuff on the pink car rod bearing wise, they are factory 04 mains and factory rings and pistons.

http://bryantracing.com/2014/products/miscellaneous/

or if you have some serious coin: http://www.obbco.com/custom-babbitt-bea ... QgodI2wZmA

Both have made good things happen that were thought to be "junk".

Gonna stick with the crank I got... LOL But bearing and ring wise I think I'm on the same page as whiteretta... I mean stock rings have held up really well in my 3400 so I don't see why a set wont survive on the 3500... even with the direct port setup.

Pistons and Rods are also probably two of the things I don't plan on changing due to the costs, I'm already switching mostly for the slight bump into the 10:1 ratio area vs my current low 9s. If I feel I don't like this result I'll probably take my original 3400 block and forge the bottom end with what's out there and put it in the 11s for CR or just high 10s

Or my other option is change the cam. But I think I would have to have the cam profiled before Ben could offer up and direct comparisons... Specs I have on it are just too vague and he doesn't have his old lobe info anymore. Without that info I'd have to just give him specs of the motor I have and get a new profile offered and then hope it outperforms what I have.

Opinions?

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html

I may be going all out. LOL