Check engine light

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1988GTU
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Check engine light

Postby 1988GTU » Sun Aug 22, 2004 10:51 am

SES is Service Engine Soon, which also means Check Engine Light.


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Check engine light

Postby Guest » Tue Aug 24, 2004 1:31 am

i had the same problem with my light.

i just cleaned my digital EGR. that was a crap load of carbon. i hope that will fix it...



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Check engine light

Postby Guest » Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:45 am

I cleaned the top on my EGR ('94 3100) too (see pictures posted earlier).
It did not do any good.

Here is a picture of the flexible pipe below it: http://s92784359.onlinehome.us/img/EGR%20PIPE1.JPG   (109k)  
I want to know:
1) Is the flexible aluminum pipe the one that needs to be cleaned OR is it the rigid metal pipe it connects to the one to be cleaned (below the flexible pipe)
2) Should I remove the flexible pipe first?
3)I read about some people cleaning the "plenum" (pipe) with a open coat hangar, I want to know if you are scraping the edges and letting the carbon fall further into the pipe, or have you  disconnected the pipe from the metal pipe at the bottom first?







Guest

Check engine light

Postby Guest » Wed Aug 25, 2004 2:25 am

im pretty sure the stiff metal pipe is the actual EGR tube, so i'd clean that one. the flexible aluminum is just a shield for the tube coming into the digital EGR valve (the three black triangle looking things that are held down with torque bolts). i just used a pipe cleaner and turned it a few times in the pipe. im also pretty sure that letting the carbon fall down the tube wont hurt it: it'll just fall back into the exhaust manifold.



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Check engine light

Postby Guest » Wed Aug 25, 2004 8:04 am

Thats good information. So I have to spray on the Carb cleaner and a little later clean the pipe with the pipe cleaner. (both done from the top of the EGR without disconnecting the pipe beneath it.)
I'm off to buy Carb Cleaner and a pipe cleaner now.

I assume one is a spray and the other a flexible brush.  :laugh:



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yanalou
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Check engine light

Postby yanalou » Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:42 am

Ok interesting post here.  My 1989 Beretta GTU had the check engine light come on after it went in the shop for a newe water pump.  I notice now that when I am stopped at a light: the car's idle revs and decreases by itslef.  Problemis it decreases to the point that the car shakes briefly and stalls.  It then starts right up againbutthe problem continues.  My mechanic, who has been the only guy to ever work on this car, says he thinks the throttle body may need to be cleaned.  I was going to bring it into him to have him do this but it sounds like it may be something easy that I could do myself.  In the past with other vehicles I have bought some of that carburator cleaner and had someone lightly step on the gas peddle as I spray the stuff down inside the carburator.  WIll this help my problem? Are these two issues realted?  It's really stressful to be sitting at a light worrying about the car conking out.



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Jeff P
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Check engine light

Postby Jeff P » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:44 am

Yes, it may help to clean all that carbon out of there.  It's best to remove the throttlebody and clean the whole thing.  That way you can clean the EGR passage (in the plenum), the IAC assembly and passage, and the back of the throttle valve.  You may also have a dirty or bad IAC valve, or a disconnected vacuum line by the water pump.  The only other thing in that area that might cause problems is the charcoal canister, whose solenoid may be unplugged.

Forgot to say that if you haven't already, you should check for trouble codes since your SES light came on.






-Jeff P.
Black '88 Beretta GT
Spice Red '06 GTO

Previously Owned:
'89 GT, '91 GT, '92 GTZ (12.95@105 mph), '01 Bonneville SSEi

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yanalou
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Check engine light

Postby yanalou » Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:32 pm

Thanks Jeff...I'll do that or bring it to my mechanic. Is that an expenisve procedure? It doesn't sound like it's a major problem and since my post above, the Check Engine light hasn't come on again for days..just the idle probelm now.



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Jeff P
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Check engine light

Postby Jeff P » Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:04 am

It would probably be expensive for the mechanic to clean the carbon out, but if you did it yourself you'd only shell out the cost of a can of cleaner.  You can buy a can of Carb & Throttle Body Cleaner for probably $1-3 and use an old toothbrush to help clean it all up.  The throttlebody is held on by two 13mm bolts and there are some cables attached to it (remove the clips and slide them off).  Be very careful pulling out the vacuum lines as they're brittle.  Pull on the rubber part instead of the lines themselves.  It's your choice on whether to remove the two coolant hoses from the bottom of the throttlebody...you'll have some spillage if you do.  Removing the EGR valve requires a 13mm wrench (1/2" may work) and once again be careful with the vacuum line.  You can also check the little cylindrical filter on the EGR valve while you're at it...nobody ever replaces these :D

As far as checking codes, go to #7 in the General FAQ to learn how to do it yourself if you don't know.  Hopefully there's still a code stored in the computer that can help you out :banana






-Jeff P.
Black '88 Beretta GT
Spice Red '06 GTO

Previously Owned:
'89 GT, '91 GT, '92 GTZ (12.95@105 mph), '01 Bonneville SSEi


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