Changing wheel studs

[Guest]

I'm having a bit of a problem getting the wheel studs to clear the front end of the hub.  I can't get the old ones out at all, i've tried chisseling them with a screwdriver, and banging them out with a hammer and nothing is working..anyone have any idea how to get them out?

Elliott

[Guest]

Yeah, it's probably hitting the steering knuckle. The only way I've ever gotten them out if not broken off, is to take the hub off the car. If the stud is broken, the only way is turn the stud and hub to the rear of the steering knuckle (of course the caliper and rotor is off) and it will come out. You can put them in the same way, just need to grind about 1 mm off to make a flat spot on the side of the head to clear the  knuckle. Otherwise, take the hub off.

[Guest]

well, you see i went out and looked, the part that is blocking the wheel stud from coming off IS the hub.  if i take the hub off this won't solve my problems, i've taken some pictures, if i can get my gay digital camera to work i'll post them, hang on

[Guest]

There has to be a point where there is just enough clearance to get them out and get the new ones in. Even at an angle to get them through the hole.

[Guest]

grr, kinda hard to post pics on here, heh..you got aim jc?

[Guest]

heres the pics

[Kevskate99]

I think you just tried taking out the studs in the wrong place because I have done them on both sides of my car when a shop REAMED them in when we told them we didn't want them to do out brakes and we would do them ourselfs(so we would have a hard time taking the nuts off and the studs would break, they also did other stuff like that to other people). Never will go back to that shop either, they also screwed me with AC charging.

[ErichZ26]

Sometimes you can take off the 30mm nut and use a T55 on the bolts that hold it on...slip it out.    That looks like a 87-91 knuckle...maybe there is a tad less clearance and unbolting helps.

[Guest]

I have a 95 base and I had to shave a flat spot on one of the sides to get clerance. If you have a grinding rock or a file it is faster than taking off the knuckle.

[Guest]

Quote (754-BaDRetta @ April 29 2003,08:46)I have a 95 base and I had to shave a flat spot on one of the sides to get clerance. If you have a grinding rock or a file it is faster than taking off the knuckle.
Quote just need to grind about 1 mm off to make a flat spot on the side of the head to clear the  knuckle. Otherwise, take the hub off. ÂÂÂ
Sounds familar, like in my first post of this thread

[Guest]

The best advise is to buy a repair manual.  The hub is not that hard to take off.   I personally would not grind part of the stud off,  they hold on the wheels ON.  
IF ALL ELSE FAILS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

[Guest]

ok, all my front studs are find, but i have a stuck lug on each side in the back, and a few busted studs (all from previous owner, ive only drive the car once, and wouldnt had i known its condition), so how do i get those lugs off? ive tried using breaker bars, penetrating oils, ect. i dont care if the stud breaks, they all need to be replaced, but i dont want to damage the rim in getting the lug off. how do i get the whole hub off with that black piece in there? do i need a special tool? I have a 90 indy 3.1

[Guest]

Uhm, I don't know where you got your info, but it's a 5 minute job to remove the Hub, and another 2 to hammer out the old studs. so unless you can file a chunk of your steering knuckle out in 7 minutes, I'd say it's not faster. Plus that steering knuckle is designed to have that meat there, not have it filed away.

[90BerettaGTZ]

i can help here. if you dont have a torx bit. buy one. its pretty big. anyways. take the torx bolts off, theres 3. loosen the castle nut until you gain enough clearance to take them off. i think itsa 25mm or so.you wont have to go too far.

i forget what the torque spec is for the castle nut, so check the requirement _for sure_. you dont want the wheel to wobble off.

i did this for my Calais 3 weeks back. as for installing the studs. do_not_ use the nut to suck the stud back into place. use a punch or something like that. i had better clearance when i turned the wheel to the opposite side of the car i was working on, [ turn the wheel full right if on left side ], then working on the backside of the hub. there seemed to be more clearance back there. the whole thing prolly took me about 20 minutes.

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if you dont care if the stud breaks, use the longest breaker bar you can find and turn till the stud breaks. this should work, i broke one of mine off on accident installing a wheel. old age took its toll. it just gave out.

you could goto a wheel n tire shop. maybe tell them the deal and have them use an air rachet.

[Guest]

Ok, ill try that, I have to replace them anyways, so if i can just break them out, thats fine. I didnt have the problem of them not turning (well, they dont turn) but the nuts are starting to strip, thats where I have a concern. Would it be in my best intrest to heat them up and then try?