Beretta.net

Here: read up.
http://www.60degreev6.com/articles/perf ... n2top.html

If you swap any part of the 3100 on to the top you must do all 3 things:

Heads, upper & lower intake manifolds.

You cannot swap just the heads. Or just the intakes. Or just the upper or just the lower manifold. All 3 must be used.
And you must use the same upper/lower intake manifold style. Example: you could not use a 1994 3100 lower intake manifold and then get a 1999 3100 upper intake manifold.

The newer ones are a bit bigger and have a different bolt pattern. So make sure you get the same two year/style upper & lower manifolds.

That is quite usefull... wish I would have thought to check there.

Jason

It's time I begin to think  seriously about doing this job.  Are there any common or immediate complications if I were to go out there right this second and unbolt that upper manifold and take it off?  Could I put it back on and my car would run just the same?

jason

GEN III stuff will fit our motors.
but you must do them the correct way or it will never work.
if you go gen 3 you must have heads and both intake maniflods, also you might have to have at least a 3.1l crank and 3.4l camshaft(or relatively the same) and custom make an airbox or "cool air" setup.
BTW it also involves computer programming.

those GEN III heads are $477 A PIECE!!!! i have other prices too just ask

My appologies I actually meant just porting and polishing the upper manifold.  Could I just do that?

Jason

Just another side note, you'll also need the exhaust manifolds for the Gen III heads if you do the swap.  They have the D-shaped ports.

Chris
ICQ: 10833817
AIM: Chris88CL
lezarch@hotmail.com

If I were to port and polish then do the exhaust, would they charge me a lot extra to put on headers.  If I already bought them that is?

Jason

I know you are all tired of this topic by now but I'd like to say:
The Project has Began

I took off the manifold today, then realized that there was this annoying hose in the center of the bottom of the manifold.  Then I once I removed that, I realized I don't have another daily driver while I do this, so I cleaned out the whole manifold and the part that I bolts onto.  It took about 15 seconds to start the engine, and it runs rough, but it now idles at 950rpm, rather then the standard 750rpm, but I think once it dries out, it will go back to normal, but it feels pretty powerful.  I am tempted to take it to get p&p'ed, just because I won't get in very far at all... but I'll do my best, 'cause a shop will be expensive...

Thanks for all the support, the p&p'ing will be starting as soon as get to use the parents van for the daily driver.

Thanks again,
Jason

Definitly do upper and lower and exhaust at the same time.  If you do the upper and lower first but not exhaust the engine won't perform right because your getting a sh*t load of air in but it has now where to go because of the non-free flowing exhaust. I plan on doing this to my car but getting it all done at the same time.

I've never touched the exhaust manifolds, how would I get to them?  Where?  How hard?

Oh and by the way, how do I get off the lower manifold?  Is it difficult?

Jason

I just ported the intake on my 2.3 and now it runs pretty crappy as well. It may be from all that "extra" air coming in.

So what Betta95 might be true.

I was talking to a mechanic recently about changing my plenum and upper and lower intakes.  He said spend the money to get a new set of bolts for everything too.  Becuase GM designed the bolts on my engine for one time use becuase they will be stretched out or something if you take them out then and if you reuse them, you will run into plroblems later on.  Im assuming thats the same for all the beretta engines.
By the way I have a 3100 v6.. let me know if its not the same for all.
   Oh and can anyone help me find a performance MAF or at least give me some good website? I have had no luck for the past month and a half.

The "stretchy" bolts are called torque to yield bolts and are only used on the heads as far as I know. Technically your supposed to measure their length and if they arent within spec then you have to replace them.  Personally I'd just replace them all whenever you have the heads off.

Chris
ICQ: 10833817
AIM: Chris88CL
lezarch@hotmail.com

My friend was telling me recently that I could use an 8" burr grinder to do my porting, has anyone ever tried this method?

Jason

Just go buy a die(sp?) grinder. Mine was only 32 bucks along with 10 attachments. Air powered baby!