Tierod ends and balljoints

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Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

I was going to get some new tierod ends and balljoints, but I wanted to know if anyone could recommend me a certain brand or store to buy them at.
I was also wondering about the best kind of motor mounts for my car

Thanks.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

I've used TRW ball joints on my GTZ.  They seem to be of good quality equal to OEM.  By the way those original lower ball joints are absolutely a pain to remove.  They're riveted in so you have to drill them out.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

I have a drill so It shouldn't be to hard to get them out.
Do I need any other kind of special tools or anything to get the new ball joints installed.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

Quote (ravenandrews @ Mar. 19 2002,12:47)I have a drill so It shouldn't be to hard to get them out.
Famous last words before the swearing begins.  First off, this is for the lower ball joints (so we're on the same page). If you don't have a lift you'll be lying on your back drilling.  After you drill through the rivet you'll need a good metal chisel or grinder to get the rivet head off.  You'll also need a "pickel fork" to seperate the old ball joint from the hub.


NVMYGTZ
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Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2001 1:33 am
Location: Colorado Springs
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Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by NVMYGTZ »

Eh'
There is only one ball joint on the Beretta.
You can usualy get the ball joint free by wacking the side of the control arm with a hammer.
You can drill out the rivet from ether side top or bottom.
I also found the using Dremil(sp) and cutting a X on the top helps much like a grinder.
You will have to pry the old ball joint out of the control arm. The holes that are now in your control arm will have to be inlarged to fit the new bolts and that is about it.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

Some people might agree, and some may not, the best way to replace the ball joints, is to just remove 3 more bolts, in other words, take the control arm out, put it in a vise, and forget the drill. Personally, I've always used the whizzer, if you don't have access to a compressor, a makita 4" hand held grinder is perfect! . Using the end of the grinding wheel, just grind the heads down, and when the heads are gone, use a hammer and punch to pop the rest out. Personally, the easiest way to replace the balljoints, spend the $110.00 and replace the whole arm. The next part to go, is your bushings in the arms, they'll crap out. The new arms come with bushings and the balljoint. They are clean, and new, less work, and less pain, and fast to replace. Bad part, they're about twice the cost of a ball joint, but again, half the work. I've done it both ways, I like the arm replacement better   and you don't have to worry about the bushings later.


NVMYGTZ
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Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2001 1:33 am
Location: Colorado Springs
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Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by NVMYGTZ »

That is a very good idea.
Clean & fast..........


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

Quote (NVMYGTZ @ Mar. 19 2002,6:23)Eh'
There is only one ball joint on the Beretta.
I know this but some people (including the parts counter person I dealt with) confuse the tie rod end w/ an upper ball joint.  Don't figure.  As for the other ideas, I did mine when I was putting my clutch in so my cradel was already dropped.  I originally used my hand grinder , shaved the heads off but even with a 3lb maul and a metal drift the rivets would not come out.  I then just drilled them the rest of the way out.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

If anyone can come up with an UPPER balljoint, installed by GM on a beretta, I'll have everyone on this site gather while I drink from a septic tank!  Just never happened, and if someone confuses an upper balljoint on a beretta (since there is no such thing, A funny car maybe, but not a GM prodution model) with a tierod end, then I suggest they go to the front office and turn in their drivers license, and get the hell OUT from behind the parts counter. Obviously they don't know what they're doing


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

About how much would it be to get both control arms for.
And you said it would come with the balljoints and bushings too.
That sounds like a good idea since the bushings are also bad.
Thanks for the info.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

My 94 uses the vertical type rear mount(bolt goes up and down direction). Each arm after a discount, was $124.66 plus taxes. 45 minutes in and out per side, only things you need to do is, reuse the control arm mounting bolts, use your old  castle nut from your old ball joint, and get a NEW cotter pin. Cover you ### though, chances are you'll break the sway bar links, so have new ones handy, word to the wise, don't buy the cheaper rubber bushing type, spend the couple extra bucks and buy the ones with the polyurethane bushings.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

So I guess for now I will just replace the struts, mounts, and my tierod ends. I'll just forget about replacing the balljoints for now and when I can scrape up the cash I'll get the control arms and do those seperate.
Could anyone give me some pointers on installing the struts things. to be careful about etc.

Thanks for the replies


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

If you've never done the struts before, I would suggest you let a shop do it!  Those springs have so much tension, that if the spring compressor slips, that spring will fly out and could kill you. Theres a reason why the shops have that big spring compressor with the cage thing around it. Besides, replacing the struts, it will require a front end alignment.


Guest

Tierod ends and balljoints

Post by Guest »

Thats ok I've got a friend that was going to help me do the install and he has done it before.


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