Fixing my clutch in my 89 beretta gt 2.8
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Guest
Fixing my clutch in my 89 beretta gt 2.8
ok i looked up the clutch problems thing and chose unable to select gears. say's it could be a fualty pressure plate. i was driving down the road and it just snapped/pulled apart broke whatever and i couldnt move anywhere's tryed starting the car w/o the clutched pressed wouldnt start, started it and tried to shift gears and it would tried it w/o the clutch and i still could shift! so is it my pressure plate that is broke. thats what the guy at autozone said it could be 129.99 to buy the clutch set. how do i fix it or how to i take the clutch out to check everything else and whatever else... i need a mad how to. it cost's way to darn much to have it taken in!
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Guest
Fixing my clutch in my 89 beretta gt 2.8
I replaced my engine a year ago and replaced my clutch too - here's my how-to:
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!
Put the car up - jack stands and chock the rear wheels
left front wheel off - take the brake caliper off and hang with a clothes hanger in the wheelwell
loosen both front swaybar mounts - the ones that are 13mm nuts on the ubolts - just loosen till the nuts are at the end of the bolts - try loosening the steering rack nut - it'll make it easier
FIRST - get a fine tipped red sharpie and circle the bolts as they are on the drivers side a- arm beam - this will help in reattaching it with the car still aligned...
get a breaker bar and loosen all six of the left front a-arm beam bolts attaching the beam to the undercarriage. unbolt the top of the shock tower mount from the car. (the two 13mm nuts and the 10mm bolt- not the shock nut) let the shock lay outward, and pull on the drivers side driveshaft from the tranny - youll get it when it's pulled hard enough..
let them droop onto a block of wood. now finish loosening the 6 big bolts from the suspension beam, and lower to the ground - or lower to a block of wood - your swaybar will determine this - you *could just remove the two bolts for the swaybar mount, and remove the link - might make maneuvering easier-
now you need to support the engine from above, or below, but dont bend the oilpan - it looks bad.
now loosen the drivers side engine mount bolts and remove it - youll have had to remove some intake stuff.... maybe some coolant stuff. MAYBE some fuel lines - be careful and releave the pressure first
remove the tranny gear selector linkages, and the sensor connectors.
now, on the passenegr side bulkhead is an engine mount - two bolts through it to the block - loosen both - remove one.
same with the front engine mount (pass side) - two bolts to the block - loosen both, remove one.
now with a jack at the transmission end of the powertrain assembly, lower the whole assembly until the tranmission will appear to have about 4-6 inches of room when pulled directly away from the engine.....
support engine at this funny angle - probably 30 degrees to the horizontal
loosen all engine to tranny bolts, have a friend help, and pull the tranny away - slowly - its about 100 pounds...
now, you can sit in the engine bay and look directly at the clutch.. it's kinda fun. while your at it, mark with nail polish or a red sharpy exactly how the pressure plate mates to the flywheel - it might help - you never know.
unbolt the pressure plate evenly a turn at a timne on each bolt int a circular pattern, until the springs elongate inside and you can shimmy the pressure plate around.
take it all out, including the flywheeel - buya new clutch - surface the flywheel, and bolt it all together again to torqued specs - find out what they are - with a haynes or other..
maybe replace the camshaft seal if you can - its three small bolts on a circular plate
its fun if you have the time -
you could probably do al of this in the span of a week if you have a life outside of your car..
it'll be a #######, but you'll learn a lot, and know what needs to be done with removing other things in the future!
Bea careful - no liability on my part for anyone - this is my remembered experience.
have fun
micah
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!
Put the car up - jack stands and chock the rear wheels
left front wheel off - take the brake caliper off and hang with a clothes hanger in the wheelwell
loosen both front swaybar mounts - the ones that are 13mm nuts on the ubolts - just loosen till the nuts are at the end of the bolts - try loosening the steering rack nut - it'll make it easier
FIRST - get a fine tipped red sharpie and circle the bolts as they are on the drivers side a- arm beam - this will help in reattaching it with the car still aligned...
get a breaker bar and loosen all six of the left front a-arm beam bolts attaching the beam to the undercarriage. unbolt the top of the shock tower mount from the car. (the two 13mm nuts and the 10mm bolt- not the shock nut) let the shock lay outward, and pull on the drivers side driveshaft from the tranny - youll get it when it's pulled hard enough..
let them droop onto a block of wood. now finish loosening the 6 big bolts from the suspension beam, and lower to the ground - or lower to a block of wood - your swaybar will determine this - you *could just remove the two bolts for the swaybar mount, and remove the link - might make maneuvering easier-
now you need to support the engine from above, or below, but dont bend the oilpan - it looks bad.
now loosen the drivers side engine mount bolts and remove it - youll have had to remove some intake stuff.... maybe some coolant stuff. MAYBE some fuel lines - be careful and releave the pressure first
remove the tranny gear selector linkages, and the sensor connectors.
now, on the passenegr side bulkhead is an engine mount - two bolts through it to the block - loosen both - remove one.
same with the front engine mount (pass side) - two bolts to the block - loosen both, remove one.
now with a jack at the transmission end of the powertrain assembly, lower the whole assembly until the tranmission will appear to have about 4-6 inches of room when pulled directly away from the engine.....
support engine at this funny angle - probably 30 degrees to the horizontal
loosen all engine to tranny bolts, have a friend help, and pull the tranny away - slowly - its about 100 pounds...
now, you can sit in the engine bay and look directly at the clutch.. it's kinda fun. while your at it, mark with nail polish or a red sharpy exactly how the pressure plate mates to the flywheel - it might help - you never know.
unbolt the pressure plate evenly a turn at a timne on each bolt int a circular pattern, until the springs elongate inside and you can shimmy the pressure plate around.
take it all out, including the flywheeel - buya new clutch - surface the flywheel, and bolt it all together again to torqued specs - find out what they are - with a haynes or other..
maybe replace the camshaft seal if you can - its three small bolts on a circular plate
its fun if you have the time -
you could probably do al of this in the span of a week if you have a life outside of your car..
it'll be a #######, but you'll learn a lot, and know what needs to be done with removing other things in the future!
Bea careful - no liability on my part for anyone - this is my remembered experience.
have fun
micah