Replacing c/v joint
Replacing c/v joint
Hey all,
This is DJ Smax, with another question for all of the experienced Beretta owners... :
Should I go about replacing a Driver's side C/V Joint myself? Mine is knocking... and I just put down $200 to pay someone back from replaced injectors/spark plugs/wires/etc. last year. I am sick of paying outrageous prices for these things, I know a relatively decent amount about cars for my age, and I think with the help of all of you I can change it myself...
So how would I go about doing it? Should I not even try? THanks in advance...
This is DJ Smax, with another question for all of the experienced Beretta owners... :
Should I go about replacing a Driver's side C/V Joint myself? Mine is knocking... and I just put down $200 to pay someone back from replaced injectors/spark plugs/wires/etc. last year. I am sick of paying outrageous prices for these things, I know a relatively decent amount about cars for my age, and I think with the help of all of you I can change it myself...
So how would I go about doing it? Should I not even try? THanks in advance...
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- Registered User
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- Joined: Sat May 05, 2001 4:48 pm
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Replacing c/v joint
Its easy. This is how I do it, theres other ways, but I find this the easiest.
Put your car up on jack stands, pull the wheel/tire. Remove the 30mm axle nut in the center of the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint. Then remove the castle nut on the lower ball joint. Seperate the steering knuckle from the lower balljoint (most people use a picklefork, I just hit the side of the control arm with a hammer. I figure a picklefork is going to ruin the balljoint anyways so I might as well atleast have a chance of it surviving). Push/pry down on the lower control arm to seperate it from the steering knuckle. Push in on the axle and pull out gently on the steering knuckle to seperate it from the axle, then take a prybar (I prefer a 2x4) and place it between the transaxle and the thick part of the inner CV joint on the axle and pry it out of the transaxle. It should just "pop" out. Sometimes it can be difficult. Installation is the reverse of removal. Check torque specs in a manual. I know the axle nut is like 200 ft/lbs.
Chris
ICQ: 10833817
AIM: Chris88CL
lezarch@Hotmail.com
Put your car up on jack stands, pull the wheel/tire. Remove the 30mm axle nut in the center of the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint. Then remove the castle nut on the lower ball joint. Seperate the steering knuckle from the lower balljoint (most people use a picklefork, I just hit the side of the control arm with a hammer. I figure a picklefork is going to ruin the balljoint anyways so I might as well atleast have a chance of it surviving). Push/pry down on the lower control arm to seperate it from the steering knuckle. Push in on the axle and pull out gently on the steering knuckle to seperate it from the axle, then take a prybar (I prefer a 2x4) and place it between the transaxle and the thick part of the inner CV joint on the axle and pry it out of the transaxle. It should just "pop" out. Sometimes it can be difficult. Installation is the reverse of removal. Check torque specs in a manual. I know the axle nut is like 200 ft/lbs.
Chris
ICQ: 10833817
AIM: Chris88CL
lezarch@Hotmail.com
Replacing c/v joint
FYI, when I did my clutch, my CV shaft didn't go in all the way, so we had to pop it with a sledge gently to get it past the ring..
(wow sledgehammer and gently in the same sentence?)
(wow sledgehammer and gently in the same sentence?)
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- Registered User
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2001 1:18 am
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Replacing c/v joint
I have to do the same thing to my car, started out just clunking while under power and turning one direction, it's now all the time under power. If only I had the parking space for both cars I'd let the GTZ sit for a few days while I fixed it in my limited spare time, gonna have to wait till I get a couple days off or a few hours with Chris's help wich should be this weekend.
06 Trailblazer SS Bored & Stroked 408ci, ZR1 Cam, Trick Flow heads, TVS1900, Built Trans w/stall 600AWHP
09 Solstice GXP Targa Coupe 1 of 1266
93 Med. Garnet Red Q4 GTZ 1 of 621
Bfest '01, '02, '04, '05
09 Solstice GXP Targa Coupe 1 of 1266
93 Med. Garnet Red Q4 GTZ 1 of 621
Bfest '01, '02, '04, '05
Replacing c/v joint
Alright thanks for the help guys. I'll let you know how it goes as soon as I get around to doing it!
Replacing c/v joint
My wifes Corsica the CV joint is going...rather than go and post on the Corsica board is the procedure the same?