Beretta.net

We all know that we can reflect heat. That is why our CAI and WAI pipes are shinny. Is that enough? Is that all we can do to help keep the air temperature down? No! We can get a heat shield to help a little more. The pipe is reflecting heat to a point, but is still soaking up some heat. All and all the pipe is not getting very hot. The air inside is helping it to cool down, but why use that air to cool the pipe? What would be gained from a heat shield? Well not too much, but it could be a ten degree drop. I will be doing some testing this in the summer on my CAI. I have an AutoXray, so I can watch the IAT at all times. I will also check the incoming air temperature with the TB heater lines bypassed. The main problem will be the fact that the IAT is very far away from the TB. I may never see any drop in the inlet temp. Is there anything else I can watch to look for a change? I can see the MAP volts, but I think it would be hard to tell if there was a change. I can also watch the DC of the injectors.
The headers are on the way so I started to have some fear about the loss of the stock exhaust manifold heat shield(we have talked about this before). With the heat shield covering that I'm going to buy I will have no need to fear any longer(it can take up to 1,100F).
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cool_ ... system.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I think it would be best to take the shield off for the winter.

Do you realize how fast the air passes through a WAI?

Not really much chance to pick up any measurable heat.

Same for the TB heater lines. It's been tested and there is no measurable difference in air inlet temp with them connected or not. The air is travelling too fast.

As for the IAT sensor they are so notoriously inaccurate they really don't do much. (Good write up on 60*)

I have had mine dangling around in several different locations over the years and noticed no difference at all in ET or MPH.

Oh yeah, somehow I forgot that the TB heater lines are for deicing. I didn't plan to move the IAT. Just thought it was not in the right place to see anything from the test. Yes the WAI is too short to pick up very much heat. If you had a WAI made from steel and had a dull finish it would pick up more heat. Still not a whole lot, but more. I'll check into the IAT write up.
It can be in the 100's here in the summer and under hood temps get very high when sitting. I'm just looking for a way to keep my intake charge as cool as it can be.

You can scan the IAT no problem. A WAI I logged extremely high temps and they took a long while to drop once I did get on the highway.
I was going to post my website with the tunnerpro files, but it's down at the moment.

i imagine that there's a table like this in OBD-1 too but once the IAT temp starts going over 100*f it pulls timing and on my 99 that was as much as 6*. it starts out at 2* at 100*f and more the the higher the temp goes.

ill find the scans i took when we were at albany this summer. it got pretty hot under the hood and most of that was from the car sitting int he lanes. it was up near 140* and at that temp its pulling 5* timing.

there's a writeup on LS1gto.com about using a better thermistor. They say the Omega Thermistor reads a whole lot quick and more accurate than the stock one
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread ... ht=iat+mod" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Can't wait to see those scans guys!
That's a get link, I'm going to send it to my friend. I think I'm going to do the mod. Along with the shield there should be some good gains there.

I scanned a long time ago. IIRC in the summer the IAT's were well above 100 in the city, and yes, the car was unresponsive and slow, that's why you'll never see me with a WAI. Maybe for you guys that have a boat load of HP on tap you don't notice it, but I do on the 3100. When running the modified air box, I saw only 10F higher than ambient, which could have been the sensor reading 10* off.... So it could have been seeing ambient air temp.

I have several different IAT's lying around. I think the stock one which is what I'm using is like a metal circle with 2 wires soldered to it. The other I got from some other newer GM air assembly, is black epoxy coated. I have not tested them to see which is more responsive, but I put the bare metal one in...

What did you get the epoxy one off of?

Link to the Omega
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref= ... S_ELEMENTS" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Isaac?