prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

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themadness
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prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby themadness » Wed Mar 12, 2014 8:09 am

basically the clear coat is flaking off of my 96 camaro. it looks like a flubbed re-paint because there is heavy cracking on the hood as well. with the clear flaking off in LARGE flakes, how do i prep to have it painted again? i guy i know that does industrial painting(some custom car work as well) said i could blow it off with an air hose. :unknown:

do i need to sand the whole car to the under coat or could i blend?

if i blend it how far past the circumference of the peeling areas do i need to go to assure the clear wont come off any further?

i would love to be able spot correct this paint job because the areas that arent clear peeling look really good. i might get some pics of the offending areas later today.

on a side not if you guys are thinking of painting any small parts your self with a rattle can(as i know we all do) you should try rustoleums new line of paint. it has "double coat" technology. i have no clue what that means in the spray paint world but it leaves a glass like gloss. i did my side mirrors yesterday and was super impressed 8)



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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby 3X00-Modified » Wed Mar 12, 2014 8:45 am

If it's pealing it will continue to peal even with fresh paint over it... The issue is the adhesion between the clear and the base coat and adding something over it will just fall off with it when it peals further.

My car when I got it had pealing base coat issues with the poor GM primer. It was stripped down to bare metal and re primed and prepped for fresh paint. That was the only way I could ensure it wouldn't happen again.



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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby themadness » Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:04 am

so you did chemical stripping or did you sand it all the way down?



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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby 3X00-Modified » Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:14 am

Razor blades and some sanding... No chemical stripping because the door jambs were not redone.



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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby themixer » Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:05 am

i also just used sandpaper to do mine down to bare metal, then high build primer to cover deep scratches worked quite well!

The next cheap car i paint will be rolled on people seem to get great results (indeed a lot of prep and sanding) from these

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh ... t-job-quot



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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby 3X00-Modified » Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:52 am

I don't understand why all those who paint with rustoleum use a roller... Just stick it in a cheap spray gun.... you do ALL the same processes and honestly if you get a good coat spraying it then there is LESS wet sanding and buffing work necessary at the end.

I bought a small spray gun from Lowes and I wouldn't be afraid to try and paint something like that if my car was a rustoleum option.

Last I checked they don't make Raspberry metallic.



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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby woody90gtz » Wed Mar 12, 2014 12:50 pm

Strip it to bare metal, that's really your only option for a cure. You can use paint stripper without doing the jambs, but you need to tape every seam very well and then you are left with just a couple inches at the ends of the panels to mechanically strip. Rather than sandpaper, 3M has a "paint and rust stripper" wheel that works awesome, and does not harm the metal.


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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby GTZfan » Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:41 am

woody90gtz wrote:Strip it to bare metal, that's really your only option for a cure.


What woody says!! :pardon:

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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby Godlike » Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:45 pm

With alot of imperfections you can feather out the issues in concentrated areas when sanding but if your existing top coat has poor adhesion then it never will feather out. You will end up chasing that edge untill youve sanded that whole layer off. When feathering a spot out if you get a shiny "ring" at the edge the paint will probably lift there if you try to paint / prime it. Ive made that mistake.
I used paint stripper in an aerosol can on my Impala. Worked pertty well. Acts like the aircraft stripper in the gallon cans only it goes on much thinner which can allow you to strip a few layers at a time if you want depending on how heavy you apply it.
As far as corrosion protection goes there is usually nothing better than the factory E coat. If you strip the car down to bare metal be sure to use a real self-etching primer first. A regular primer surfacer is generally meant for filling imperfections in body filler and will not provide the best corrosion protection and adhesion. Self-etch uses phosphoric acid to wick into and impregnate the steel with zinc phosphate which basically means far greater corrosion protection.


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Re: prepping a car for paint with serious clear coat issue

Postby themixer » Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:06 pm

I have gun painted a few panels and cars and this roller method still intrigues me. It's quiet a skill to get a "good coat spraying" in less than ideal conditions. As I don't have the best gear (compressor/gun) or a paint booth, the roller method could be done in really any shelter. The best part I believe is that there is less dust kicked up.

My Berettas paint job turned out terrible, plagued with MASSIVE problems and time constraints. In the end the car is white, its not rusted though and is still alive because of it, so I am grateful. Honestly if I could go back in time and paint it gloss white with a roller and rustoleum I think it would be in pretty much the same shape if not a little better.


3X00-Modified wrote:I don't understand why all those who paint with rustoleum use a roller... Just stick it in a cheap spray gun.... you do ALL the same processes and honestly if you get a good coat spraying it then there is LESS wet sanding and buffing work necessary at the end.

I bought a small spray gun from Lowes and I wouldn't be afraid to try and paint something like that if my car was a rustoleum option.

Last I checked they don't make Raspberry metallic.




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