My engine sputters :c
My engine sputters :c
Ok so my engine is on and off lately. When I try to gun it off the line or just in general it often sputters or just kind of chuggs and doesn't go anywhere. It also does this when I use my cruise control uphill. It's like it loses power then it comes back. I think it might just need a tune up since my spark plugs don't tick, but I fear it might be the transmission or the fuel pump. I wanted to ask what you guys think it could be b4 I spend any amount of money on something that might not be a problem.
1995 Beretta 3.1 SFI(Work in Progress)
1990 Nissan 240sx(Soon?...)
Thrush Turbo Muffler
3"Racing tip
Hundai Tiburon Wing
1990 Nissan 240sx(Soon?...)
Thrush Turbo Muffler
3"Racing tip
Hundai Tiburon Wing
-
Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Re: My engine sputters :c
Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. How old is your filter? It also could be water in the gas. I'd try some IsoHeet first or something that "takes" water out of the gas.
keep'em flying!
Re: My engine sputters :c
Money Pit has some good suggestions there. I've rarely seen a fuel-filter so clogged that it hampers drivability, but it does happen. A tune-up is just a good idea anyway, so I wouldn't consider it a waste regardless. But, I think you might be right about the fuel-pump (or filter) being the problem. Get a fuel-pressure tester, and make sure your engine is getting ~47 PSI (you do have a V-6, right?). If you do, that is probably not the problem, but if you can safely leave the gauge connected while driving and duplicating the symptoms, then you would know for sure. After you replace your fuel filter (if you do), you can try running some injector-cleaner through the system too. BG 44K is the only stuff I've ever used that actually worked, but I've never tried the Lucas stuff either (or a lot of the other brands, for that matter -I got tired of trial-and-error testing, so when I found something that finally worked, I stuck with it). BG 44K is expensive, but it is better than wasting less money on something that doesn't work at all. Keep us updated...
1989 SuperCharged 3800 Srs-II (First)Six-Speed GTU
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
Re: My engine sputters :c
Thanks x3. How would I go about doing a fuel pressure test? Can you link me to where I can get BG 44k, because I did that Lucas Fuel System treatment and it was good for a bit then it went crap again. I do have the v6 3100 so I'll write down that ~47 PSI. I was going to do the tune up anyways seeing as I have 145,xxx miles lol. How much would a fuel filter or fuel pump cost for these? I checked autozone and couldn't even find the parts lol.
Unrelated question: What size are the stock 3100 injectors, and how much bigger can I go without bulking up the engine. I was thinking about going up to 660cc injectors, my friend has that on his turbo'd Acura Integra so I figured the 3100 could handle that much at least.
Unrelated question: What size are the stock 3100 injectors, and how much bigger can I go without bulking up the engine. I was thinking about going up to 660cc injectors, my friend has that on his turbo'd Acura Integra so I figured the 3100 could handle that much at least.
1995 Beretta 3.1 SFI(Work in Progress)
1990 Nissan 240sx(Soon?...)
Thrush Turbo Muffler
3"Racing tip
Hundai Tiburon Wing
1990 Nissan 240sx(Soon?...)
Thrush Turbo Muffler
3"Racing tip
Hundai Tiburon Wing
Re: My engine sputters :c
A correct fuel-pressure tester will screw on to the test-port on the fuel-injection rail. Procedure is as follows:
1. Remove fuel-pump fuse or relay.
2. Crank engine for several seconds -this relieves fuel pressure by operating the injectors. The engine should not run.
3. Install pressure-test gauge onto test-port.
4. Reinstall fuse or relay.
5. Start and run engine -check gauge for fuel-leaks. Read gauge.
6. Removing the tester is basically the same procedure, unless it has a fuel-pressure relief valve on it.
I think you can order BG 44K at either AutoZone or Advanced now, it has been a long time since I've bought any.
Check with Rock Auto (online) for parts -just be sure to shop around, the shipping cost may make it not worth while. But I bought ~5 or ten filters for like $1.70 each last year, just because I own so many cars that use the same filter. Pump should cost ~$80 unless you buy the whole sending unit, which really isn't necessary unless you are having gauge problems too.
Leave stock injectors on the car unless you can re-tune the PCM (only possible on '96 models or non-original ECMs mostly from '96+ GMs) or have a custom-burned PROM chip ('93 and older, maybe some '94s, IDK). If the injectors are dumping more fuel into the engine than the computer thinks they are, the car will run too rich when it is cold, may not even run, and may still be confused even in closed-loop mode where it is running with feedback from the O2 sensor. Just my 2-cents worth... Does anyone have change for a dollar?
1. Remove fuel-pump fuse or relay.
2. Crank engine for several seconds -this relieves fuel pressure by operating the injectors. The engine should not run.
3. Install pressure-test gauge onto test-port.
4. Reinstall fuse or relay.
5. Start and run engine -check gauge for fuel-leaks. Read gauge.
6. Removing the tester is basically the same procedure, unless it has a fuel-pressure relief valve on it.
I think you can order BG 44K at either AutoZone or Advanced now, it has been a long time since I've bought any.
Check with Rock Auto (online) for parts -just be sure to shop around, the shipping cost may make it not worth while. But I bought ~5 or ten filters for like $1.70 each last year, just because I own so many cars that use the same filter. Pump should cost ~$80 unless you buy the whole sending unit, which really isn't necessary unless you are having gauge problems too.
Leave stock injectors on the car unless you can re-tune the PCM (only possible on '96 models or non-original ECMs mostly from '96+ GMs) or have a custom-burned PROM chip ('93 and older, maybe some '94s, IDK). If the injectors are dumping more fuel into the engine than the computer thinks they are, the car will run too rich when it is cold, may not even run, and may still be confused even in closed-loop mode where it is running with feedback from the O2 sensor. Just my 2-cents worth... Does anyone have change for a dollar?
1989 SuperCharged 3800 Srs-II (First)Six-Speed GTU
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
Re: My engine sputters :c
can you post pics? I'm not really that shabby with fuel systems lol.
1995 Beretta 3.1 SFI(Work in Progress)
1990 Nissan 240sx(Soon?...)
Thrush Turbo Muffler
3"Racing tip
Hundai Tiburon Wing
1990 Nissan 240sx(Soon?...)
Thrush Turbo Muffler
3"Racing tip
Hundai Tiburon Wing