auto trans fix or swap ?
auto trans fix or swap ?
Ohk I have done a quick search and nothing stuck out yet. I recently got ahold of my second Beretta 94 Z26 about 165K been driving but has a bad miss I havnt been able to track down. I just came into another Z26 ( yes I should be committed ) this one is 96 with the trans only shifting manually, start in L. The 96 has 180K runs great. Should I or could I even put the 94 trans in the 96 ? Is this a easily cured tranny problem in the first place ? I am thinking there would be more wiring work to do if I did a motor swap. I really would like the 96 to stay original.
Hope someone can point in the right direction or have a direct answer.
Hope someone can point in the right direction or have a direct answer.
Last edited by _M9|GTZ on Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: auto trans fix or swap ?
Oh I forgot to mention I have access to a junked 92 with a good motor a trans of 85K on it. It is meant for the 94, however I was thinking of the outside chance of putting it in the 96. As I said I would rather do a trans swap than to downgrade the entire car....
AS a side I am thinking of improvements that could be done before dropping the 92 motor back in. Still on the fence about a 3400....
AS a side I am thinking of improvements that could be done before dropping the 92 motor back in. Still on the fence about a 3400....
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yellow3800
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Re: auto trans fix or swap ?
I have no idea on the manual shift bit. I constantly beat the drum that if you don't know the last time that filter has been changed, then change it before continuing. maybe the 94 computers ses light on will affect shifting - my 3800 computer does if it hits the right adjacent circuit and POOF! ...weird shifting and its set by missing 4ohm load somewhere.
Keeping the KISS principle, I would like add to the table options of keeping the mated trans of a 3400, and replace them both at the same time since this may not be limited to a trans issue [you say you are open for an engine change]. There are less wire headaches from my point of view because I do not know what transmissions are interchangeable, and if YOU pick the car it comes from that has a large T-bone hit in the back, the powerplant may be okay. Engine/trans have a mated wire harness that goes to the computer, and the only splicing you'd do is to the non-engine portion of the car -a/c heat, a few switches... then again, a beretta computer controls these 3400s, so I hate to suggest extra work. this is the way I put my 3800 setup in.
pull eng/trans both through the top to keep the brake lines in place, or drop the entire cradle out through the bottom. I go bottom if I need to bleed brake lines or do more [struts], and through the top if I want to disturb less.
30day warranty from a used part place is standard, and while we risk our labor of time installing, the least I ask for is a parts warranty.
Then again cars that are that old probably aren't laying around anymore like this. engines/trans are probably pulled.
I've found that a transmission [the one thing I won't rebuild on a car] has a linear relationship between money and warranty with $400-$600 at a j-yard for no real warranty to $2k for a limit life warranty. Having said this, I would not like to use 6hrs swapping a trans having over 130k miles on it. Its just how much your time is worth that will help answer this.
my .02 anyway.
and I'd do a little homework anyway and find out what gearing options are available. I wish I had.
andy
Keeping the KISS principle, I would like add to the table options of keeping the mated trans of a 3400, and replace them both at the same time since this may not be limited to a trans issue [you say you are open for an engine change]. There are less wire headaches from my point of view because I do not know what transmissions are interchangeable, and if YOU pick the car it comes from that has a large T-bone hit in the back, the powerplant may be okay. Engine/trans have a mated wire harness that goes to the computer, and the only splicing you'd do is to the non-engine portion of the car -a/c heat, a few switches... then again, a beretta computer controls these 3400s, so I hate to suggest extra work. this is the way I put my 3800 setup in.
pull eng/trans both through the top to keep the brake lines in place, or drop the entire cradle out through the bottom. I go bottom if I need to bleed brake lines or do more [struts], and through the top if I want to disturb less.
30day warranty from a used part place is standard, and while we risk our labor of time installing, the least I ask for is a parts warranty.
Then again cars that are that old probably aren't laying around anymore like this. engines/trans are probably pulled.
I've found that a transmission [the one thing I won't rebuild on a car] has a linear relationship between money and warranty with $400-$600 at a j-yard for no real warranty to $2k for a limit life warranty. Having said this, I would not like to use 6hrs swapping a trans having over 130k miles on it. Its just how much your time is worth that will help answer this.
my .02 anyway.
and I'd do a little homework anyway and find out what gearing options are available. I wish I had.
andy