Ignition Lock Cylinder

[Rettax3]

That metal circle with the square hole on the bottom has to be removed with a special tool.

No. Just use a flat-blade screw-driver wide enough that it locks into the square (diagonally) without pushing all the way through. That piece holds the column tilt-spring in place, so first let the tension off of it by allowing it to tilt all the way up, then push in on that square-centered circle piece with the screw-driver (a properly-sized Phillips-driver, probably a #3, would likely work fine too), give it a little turn and allow the spring to CAREFULLY push it out.

As for the pivot-pins, yes, a special tool is generally required for those. I did have a time with those things on my '90. I bought a cheap pin-puller, and it broke. I borrowed a Snap-On pin puller, and it barely survived the process. I finally made my own out of a cheap two-jaw mini-puller, welded a washer onto a nut that screwed onto the end, and it uses a replaceable #8 (I think, maybe a #10? I don't remember it being metric... ) fine-thread screw to go into the pivot pins. I did end up getting another pin-puller from the local auto-parts store, with a lifetime warranty. They tend to only be good for one or two pins sometimes, unfortunately. I do not remember having to pull them from my GTU however, since I was able to pull the broken lock-cylinder out of the column without removing the pivot-pins, IIRC.

Interesting holes and slot in your instrument bezel... Has me wondering what mods you have done to the car besides the white-face gauges...

[DOHC_tuner]

Okay so just a flat head to turn the piece. Turn left or right? Left i assume to loosen it.

I will give that a shot and hope i dont then need to get the pivot pins out of there too.

[Rettax3]

I think it is something like a 1/4-turn to the left, or a half-turn, or some such, but you do need to push it in a little to get it to turn. It might even turn either way, I don't remember -it wasn't a problem though. It should have grease coating it for the pivot-action, so have something nearby to keep it off of your interior. Once you get down to the next level, I do believe there is a Torx screw actually holding the lock cylinder in place. Remove that, turn the lock to 'on' or 'run' or whatever, and it should slide out. From that point, you should be able to see if the gear on the end is the problem or not.

[DOHC_tuner]

Okay so I managed to remove that piece however it did not allow me to remove that section of the steering wheel. So I wasn't able to get to the next level. Looks like I do need that tool to remove the pins. I did find a broken piece, which looks to be the gear.

Now I still need to lower the column, so maybe I will be able to install a new gear without removing the next section of the steering wheel?

The link provided earlier states the gear listed is only for automatic cars?

[DOHC_tuner]

Okay update. I dropped the column and was able to remove that broken gear. The little spring below came out fast and I'm not sure where it goes? Anyone know where that small spring goes? Also can is that link the same gear for a 5 speed?

And once I get a new one in....will I just slide it in there? Or should I still get the pivot pin puller to remove the next section so I can line it up?

[1988GTU]

Okay update. I dropped the column and was able to remove that broken gear. The little spring below came out fast and I'm not sure where it goes? Anyone know where that small spring goes? Also can is that link the same gear for a 5 speed?

And once I get a new one in....will I just slide it in there? Or should I still get the pivot pin puller to remove the next section so I can line it up?

I dont recall having to remove any more than that to replace that gear. It was somewhat ninja like with the tools, but was not too in depth.

I did drop the column down from the dash tho.

[Rettax3]

Oooo, bad. That isn't the gear I have had problems with -my issues were (both times) the gear that actually rides on that toothed 'rack' that is broken in your car. I am pretty sure 1988GTU is correct, that you do not need to disassemble any further than you already have, although reassembly might be easier if you do. All I can say is good luck, because that is a hard part to find, and it CANNOT be repaired with any expectation of reliability. Sorry.

It looks like that spring goes to the turn-signal cancel-cam (switch), but I am not certain. For that, you might have to dig in to the next step...

[1988GTU]

Auto trans gear can be substituted, you just loose the ability of the key release function. Tilt column is not interchangeable with fixed. 87-92 iirc is compatible (non air bag) across all L bodies, J bodies, N bodies.
Based on what I have tried using, note* Tilt column is not interchangeable with fixed

[DOHC_tuner]

http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/g ... 030896.php


Okay so this piece in the link is the same as the piece that broke on my car.....but it's for automatic and I will loose the key release function?

Please advise.

[1988GTU]

That's what is posted.

[Rettax3]

Check out this ongoing thread too... (I hope the link works...) http://www.beretta.net/forum/viewtopic. ... 3&start=15

[DOHC_tuner]

Thank you for that post, ive followed up on the post but just now see a update to it.

What is the down side to having a push start as a fix? And anyone have any info to install one on a Beretta?

[3X00-Modified]

The downside I see is you still need some sort of switch to engage the "ignition" stage of running... then you would use the push button to crank the engine. This part is what pushes an arm inside the column to control that switch to enable the ignition and all the accessories and such so without this part you would be converting your car to not requiring a key at all unless you install something electronic that triggers a relay for everything else... if you ask me it gets complicated and possibly makes your car MUCH easier to jack.

[1988GTU]

The push button is not that hard to make secure. You will need to have a good understanding of how the system functions in order to install something of that configuration. It will not be as simple as a rear disc brake swap for a Beretta or a double din HU install for the L body either.

I was tempted with trying this for my future keyless setups.
http://www.innovativeignitionsystems.com/#

[DOHC_tuner]

Well it seems no matter which way i go i will have issues. Considering there isnt a replacement piece for what i need. Is it possible to weld it back together?

Seems the easiest solution is a whole new steering column, which then might present the issue soon as well.

I would like a push start to do away with this inevitable issue altogether. I wonder if a local radio shop installs these.

I understand the arm is what moves the switch and what have you, but there has to be a way with the wires connected to it to have that done electronic.

Not really worried of someone stealing a Beretta in this import city i live in.