Beretta.net

Been going on about 4 - 5 months or so. Engine flutters, stutters, sometimes has some out right missing (when it has the out right missing I hear a tap, like a lifter tap maybe?), mostly when cold, doesn't stall out though, when it warms up runs usually much better and I also don't notice the "tap". BUT even when warmed up, still notice a "stumble" when letting off gas, say when going down a hill or letting off to stop. There are NO codes??? AND this doesn't happen ALL the time, sometimes may run good for a day or 2 or 3??? Mechanic replaced plugs and wires, crank sensor, fuel filter (he said he checked it once during this and seemed to have lower fuel pressure than it should?), had real bad oil leaks on rear valve cover and where "distributor" hole is at, fixed that while he was working on it. It is my elderly Mother's car, she drives it about 10 miles a day, 6 days a week, her and I weren't thinking and it didn't have an oil change (OR checked) for like 2 years, I know, my bad and it was 2 quarts low. Changed oil about 2 months ago and put a quart of Lucas in it as well.

These engines have fuel injectors that develop problems.

remove that lucas garbage from that motor, just run regular motor oil nothing special. I agree with ifixalot similar to my injector problems with my 3.1. Take a look around for a good running 3100 motor in a junk yard and take those.

Ignition Control Module or Coil(s) are about due for replacement. Any cracks, bleeding rust, or obvious defects apparent to the parts?

1988GTU wrote:Ignition Control Module or Coil(s) are about due for replacement. Any cracks, bleeding rust, or obvious defects apparent to the parts?

this is also correct while grabbing the injectors at the junk yard might as well grab the 3100 ICM

OK, I had assumed if it were an injector(s) it would be an all the time problem, not random or effected by temperature, but obviously I am not a mechanic. Also, noticed today still has some oil leak however??? Seen a little oil on the carport floor??? Also, I looked a little more and I see some "sludge" in the antifreeze? Thanks

Needs a cooling system flush. It is very common for these engines to have ICM problems because they are so close to the exhaust manifold in the front. As said replace that, do it first . As for the oil leak it must be tracked down. Sometimes it is the crankshaft sensor, most of the time the rear main seal goes bad. If the leak is more toward the transmission on the driver's side then it is the main seal, more toward the rear of the engine and soaking the transmission's pan then it is the crank sensor.

Distrib. cap o-ring is a known oil leaking area for that gen motor.

THANKS! Wonder if it needs a. lower intake manifold gasket???

Mechanic did replace dist. cap oring as it was leaking, I checked it and actually for some reason it is leaking worse? Mechanic said would gladly replace it again. ALSO, one thing I notice seems like oil pressure is too high a good bit of the time, while idling ok, but during driving at a decent speed is around 80 psi showing on dash gauge?

Oh man I'm sorry, forgot to say that if the leak is in front the oil pressure sensor can leak at the electrical connector. Also you could be getting a false reading from that. Just pull the connector and see if it has oil in it.

Hows the idle in drive while stopped and then in park?

The idle is an irrational, erratic thing, sometimes it idles great, sometimes has a miss, sometimes idles up and down, then yesterday noticed when I crank it it first idles high speed then comes down, then for the first time, 3 different times today it quit when I came to a stop, it idles all the way down at the stop while in drive and then dies in other words, but then drove it about 5 miles and it was fine????

PCV tube from LIM to rear rocker cover could be oozing oil.

RIght now I'd be looking for an air leak or vacuum leak. Clean the idle air control valve and its port too, just incase.