Beretta.net

Hey guys,

New member, been lurking for about a week or two. Searching mostly, on my current issues.

I bought a 1993 Beretta gt, had a fuel line leak. Got the fuel line fixed, and now I can't hear the fuel pump... Dundundun.

So after crawling under the the car, I noticed A LOT more rust and obstacles than I wanted to deal with. Unfortunately I had to resort in doing things a bit more unconventionally.

I cut an access panel under the back seat.

I guess the question was, do fuel pumps up and die this abruptly? It ran three weeks ago. I can run it on ether, so it isn't the spark. I jumped the relay, orange wire to grey wire. Had 12.1v at the four prong fuel pump connector.

Next question is, could it be a bad ground?

Thank you in advance,

Tyler.

Rust does impede a solid ground. Does the fuel gauge read as it should?

I guess the best question would be, where does this ground go? If I had to guess there is a similar sized wire coming from the conduit, and going to the driver side trunk.

Currently in the process of bending new fuel line. Let me tell you not fun. The 45° out and 22.5° down wasn't fun. Hopefully after I put the jy f/p in. It will be OK. If not, I may have to just run a new ground.

So, installed new lines, and fuel pump, bit no prime with key. Where do o start with this? I don't think I have a back probe.

Find the relay on the firewall and make sure that's operating properly... and I'd also check fuses.

OK, thanks. As far as I got last night ; jumped the f/p relay, and tested voltage as best as I could, 200mv. Before the fiasco I had battery voltage. I pulled the number one fuse and it looks fine. Is there another one I should check? Thought about running another power wire to to diagnose wiring. Or at least running another body ground for peace of mind.



Tyler

Check the circuit for the oil pressure sender and check the 20? amp fuse at the bulk head.
I'm not confident in the j/y selection f/p. Did you bench test the old f/p & the j/y f/p prior to disposing installing them?

I thought there was a fusable link near the battery that involves the fuel system circuitry.
You might want to pick up a decent service manual to aid in troubleshooting your Beretta.

The way it's supposed to work is the relay is triggered for 3 seconds from a ECU trigger wire.. that is the key on prime function. After that the relay is triggered by the oil pressure sending unit if it sees oil pressure. If your not even hearing it prime there may be another issue somewhere else.

The weather is beginning to get too cruddy, for a 50 mi trek where the car is at. I'll be back out there tomorrow. No I didn't bench test, could I still just supply the f/p with power and listen to hear it turn on? Where is the 20a at the bulk head? The one that goes behind the seats?

Sorry for all of the questions. No one around here has a Chilton or Haynes in stock. So I had to special order one. Should be in by Monday hopefully.

Directly hot wiring it at the connector under the seat above the tank is possible once disconnected from body/chassis side.

It would be located up above the steering rack to the left of the brake booster.

Chilton & Haynes are poop.
Example of manual I'd recommend:
http://www.diyrepairmanuals.com/proddet ... AkxB8P8HAQ

There is a bulkhead above the rack to the left of the brake booster, correct?

Sorry, I am finally getting plowed out of the hermit layer I call home. Ha-ha

Thank you guys.

Tyler

Finally using back probes, got 12.6v at the f/p. 10.61v while cranking. Replaced most of the fuel line, would air in the line cause this? How would I prime such lines?

Pump will self prime, or should the first time you turn the ignition on.

Hm, I can hear the pump gurgle, but I may have to take it back out an try bench testing it.