Volt gauge pegged out

steve3408 · Post by **steve3408** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:58 pm

Just changed the gauge cluster'(95 to '95 model) to one that has gauges instead of idiot lights.It all works okay except the volt gauge is pegged out (to the 18V side) when it runs,when engines off and key on it shows 12 volt range. Had the battery/charging system checked,13.2 to 14.6 from idle to 2000 rpm.Is there a sensor or something i need to change for the volt meter from the factory light? or is the volt meter just defective? and where in the heck can i get one of those at? Chevy still got 'em? i'd not like to think i will have to cannibalise anther Z26 cluster just for a volt gauge.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:35 pm

What year car do you have, and what year is the cluster?

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:37 pm

I'm not sure, but if you knew which terminal the voltmeter signal was you could leave the cluster out with the car running and check voltage there, if it's correct there then you would know that the problem was in the cluster.

steve3408 · Post by **steve3408** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:41 pm

(scberetta3800 @ Apr. 22 2008,22:35)QUOTEWhat year car do you have, and what year is the cluster?
Its a '95 base car,and '95 gauge cluster.I wouldnt think there would be any sensors to change,it should run off straight off of the electrical system,pretty much from the alternators current coursing thru the system.
any ideas?...

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:48 pm

Do you have access to any wiring diagrams? if so, measure the voltage at the the cluster.

steve3408 · Post by **steve3408** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:18 am

(scberetta3800 @ Apr. 23 2008,21:48)QUOTEDo you have access to any wiring diagrams? if so, measure the voltage at the the cluster.
Yeah ok thats a good idea. I just cant imagine it having more voltage at that point than the alternator is putting out.I thought about pulling the gauge face off and with the engine running try to manually move it back to about the 14 volts or so range,and see if it would stay there.It reads correctly in off position and then with the key in "on" position,its just when the alternator is spinning is registers too high.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:00 pm

Get a volt meter and check your charging system... to be sure its NOT putting out that much, if it is the regulator in the alternator is shot and I'm suprised your not having more issues.

Just measure the voltage at the battery posts when its running that will work, or one to ground and one right off the alternator post. Its all the same.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:01 pm

He already had the system checked QUOTEHad the battery/charging system checked,13.2 to 14.6 from idle to 2000 rpm so I'm thinking it would be a redundant check.
I just checked the factory wiring diagrams and your voltage gauge is wired directly (through a fuse) to the battery. it'll read battery when engine is off, and alternator output when engine is running. If you have another cluster try that out, if it shows fine then you know that the problem is in the cluster.

steve3408 · Post by **steve3408** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:21 am

Well i have checked the alternator several times, always in the 14+ range when running,with engine off it shows battery at 12+ range.So i took the gauge face off,and with a little tug pulled the needle off,kinda like a speedo,the charging system was showing about 12.6 (engine off) so i put the needle back on just a hair below the middle mark (13 volts) ,..started it , gauge shows about 14-15 range, with alternator putting out 14.6 so its pretty close now.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:17 pm

Hmmm... I guess that works too lol!

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:38 am

I was gonna say reposition the needle but I thought you said it pointed at 12v with the ignition just on.

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