Some minor issues (end result = head gasket)

[irelynx]

Having a new problem with coolant running out the cap on the overflow tank. And no I haven't put your old tank on yet Jon, since I got it from you after I had already dealt with a messy pulling of my current tank to rinse it out. I have been using the cap from your tank though since that put an end to the minor cap leak I was having before then (this was back in April).

Anyway, I had gotten maybe 1mi on a cold start when I noticed the temp had spiked to the redline, so we pulled into the gas station. There was coolant along the top/side of the tank from it running out from the cap. I left it running for a sec to watch the temp, asked Will if the fan was running (he said it was, though it didn't sound like it).

Today I started it up and just let it sit. The temp went up over half after 5-10min, and then creeped up to the 3/4 mark and the fan never kicked on, I started smelling burning rubber or maybe the type of smell that goes with an electrical fire, so I shut it off. Is it likely a clog causing the overflow? Or is it all related to overheating from the fan not turning on (since it didn't flip on at all today)? I find it hard to believe that it could be massive air bubbles when it drove home from CT fine and didn't need any coolant refill. The fan issue is just an easy to replace sensor, right?

Anyway, have a video. I know the engine itself sounds terrible. The exhaust (at the tailpipe) sounds... sputtery (like it's not having a smooth airflow)? I wanted to show what I had been talking about with it sounding off/bad on startup, but it actually didn't sound anywhere near as bad as it did before replacing the plugs/wires.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W21A9AgBxEc

[DTMAce]

If I didn't know better, I would think the t-stat isn't opening up at all. The fan is triggered by that sensor right near the t-stat, so if it isn't flowing through, it won't get hot enough to kick the fan on.

Just a guess based on the info. But t-stats (the newer ones these days) are designed to fail in the open mode. Sounds like it got hot and boiled over. Not good, if it got too hot, could have caused other issues. Lets hope it didn't or that I'm wrong on the cause. Other possible cause is the coolant isn't flowing through the engine, either due to a blockage or the pump for some reason not spinning...... Check your belt for any unusual wear or such. Maybe the pump locked up and was searing the belt. I can see that happening and not being too noticeable if the tensioner isn't tight enough to make it really squeal.

[irelynx]

That wouldn't make me happy if the pump failed already, and the t-stat isn't that old either (though I know those can fail alot). We replaced the pump earlier this year (belt was also replaced since it had been bathing in coolant from that leak). That was also when I took off the overflow tank and flushed it out until water was coming out clean.

Should I just start with replacing that sensor? Looks easy enough to get to (I think).

[DTMAce]

Well here's the thing. Unless you are in completely stop and go traffic and going less than 25 mph, the car should not get hot enough to kick that fan on anyway, if the system is operating properly.

I can drive mine all day, and it never gets hot enough. If I sit in a drive through during the summer I might get it to kick in. And I have yet to get it to kick on in the black base since I bought it.

My money is not on the sensor.

[irelynx]

Well... this is the end of my car. I started it up to let it run and see if it would blow warm air, if the hoses were warm, if the radiator was warm. I got more than just "hot air meets cold air" mist out of my exhast.

When it hit the halfway mark and still no warm air, I turned it off. Hose exiting the radiator was cold and squeezing it gave an audible gurgly air sound. Radiator was cold, hoses were cold. I was not looking forward to checking the next thing because I had a feeling I knew the answer.

The head gasket is shot (I assume). The other day when I did this, oil was perfectly fine. This time? Milk. There's nothing I can do for the car at this point. Having a head gasket done is likely in the $700 range, and I'm already broke (and my card is maxed out). -_-

[heavywoody]

You sure it's not the intake manifold gasket?

[irelynx]

I suppose it could be, but it's too late for any major teardowns. We don't know anyone around here that could help with a job like that (and it's cold now with an unheated garage), and last time I had that done at a shop it cost $600 (was like $450 for the labor) after taxes.

I wouldn't know how to tell which gasket is the issue either. It had been looking like both were leaking outside the block for a while now (always wet along the gaskets). It could be one, or both, for all I know. -_-

[3X00-Modified]

Thats a pisser... That car was on borrowed time though unfortunately. Let me know if you want to do anything with it and I'll see what I have going on.

[irelynx]

My options are to either fix it or to let it sit until I have a job and can trade it in. I prefer to just fix things (if I had a job I would just trade it in at this point, less headaches), or in the case of this car, keep it driveable until it fails inspections due to the rust.

Will is still sleeping, so I haven't passed along my findings to him yet. I'll point him here when he's up.

[DTMAce]

With the symptoms, the results she posted, looks to be a head gasket failure. I was concerned that this may be the result, from what she described earlier... Sucks. 3400 time! IF we can rouse up a charitable solution... Though with all the rust issues its had, not sure if its worth saving?

[3X00-Modified]

That is the problem, It is very rusted but at the same time if they can throw $150 in parts to get it fixed and somehow hire me to do the work... very busy lately... Then they could get the car through this winter and then think of replacing it next year when the funds are there.

[irelynx]

I do love hiring myself a Jon. Except I think you have the magic touch and when my car leaves it goes suicidal or something, lol.

[irelynx]

Just wanted to give a huge thanks to Jon and Amy for coming out to help Will fix my car. We probably won't get time to cycle the oil until tomorrow, but at least it's back together with all new gaskets. I think Will said the break was at cylinder #1, but I'm sure if Jon pops in here he could give more accurate details.

[DTMAce]

Yay! Its saved for another undetermined length of time! Lets hope it holds up till after 2012 bfest!

[3X00-Modified]

Yeah #1 was nice and steam cleaned in the cylinder... The compression ring was cracked and the head gasket was eaten away by coolant... also every one of the intake bolts was finger tight pretty much... Last person to do that job really f-ed it up so I'm sure it was leaking coolant in through those ports once it got pressure, if it ever got coolant pressure.

We started around 9:45-10 had it all apart by noon and had the whole thing back together by 4:30... We didn't have an empty drain pan to do the oil change and with me having a 3hr rid home we opted to quit then... so I never got to hear it run.... LOL I hope we got it all back together right! HAHA only kidding!

Honestly I do not know how anyone can mix up the pushrods... They don't even extend passed the pushrod guide if you install the short one on the exhaust!

Only casulty was the dipstick, broke the damn T-handle off when trying to get the fan back in.

Edit*
Ace, I'm not so sure this car is really safe to drive that distance... We did this to get them moving again but in the end the car will still need to be replaced soon after this winter unfortunately.