LS1/t56 swap

Want to know how to get more out of your Beretta? Or have a mod you would like to share?
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acemccool
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by acemccool »

Where I live, we have more strict rules. Guaranteed if I did this to a Beretta then was in an accident they would void insurance due to its extensive modification. We have to take the car to an inspection to make sure its road worthy then bring the report to insurance and they either issue a new vin # or re-apply the current one with a modified description.

Not too expensive to do, probably $200 for inspection and $30 for the modified car vin application. Then it I would get it insured as a daily driver which shouldn't be much more than what you would typically pay. I have been thinking of doing something similar to what your doing.

My current problem is I don't know what kind of frame modification is considered safe and acceptable.

Wanted to basically take a early 90's S10 frame, cut the front clip out and rear end section of frame and fabricate the mid section to connect the two so the frame runs along the main frame structure like yours does beside the doors. Then notch out the beretta sheet metal to slip on the frame and weld it to the frame.

Not interested in doing body mounts and not just plunking the body on an existing frame. I want it to be proper ride height.


Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

Rettax3 wrote:
Alxsmt wrote:its 1/8" (.120) 2x4.

I have no idea how I will insure it, I havnt gotten that far yet, Ill figure it out when its running! End of the day its "just a beretta"..
I insure my old Plymouth through a company in Florida that has options for limited or unlimited mileage, selectable deductibles, and an 'agreed upon' value. They have a good reputation for backing their policy, or at least they did... Your Beretta is probably old enough, a company like that might actually cover it... :wink: IIRC, they were willing to cover my GTU a few years ago, because it was over 25 years old and maybe because it is a special edition. :pardon: The only special requirement was that you had to have a 'daily driver' registered and insured elsewhere. Hmm, I've got to get a policy on my less-old Plymouth too, now that I think about it...
oh nice. I do know mine qualifies for "classic" plates! I will probably have the car appraised when its done at least. I know an appraiser who is a diehard automotive enthusiast.

acemccool wrote:Where I live, we have more strict rules. Guaranteed if I did this to a Beretta then was in an accident they would void insurance due to its extensive modification. We have to take the car to an inspection to make sure its road worthy then bring the report to insurance and they either issue a new vin # or re-apply the current one with a modified description.

Not too expensive to do, probably $200 for inspection and $30 for the modified car vin application. Then it I would get it insured as a daily driver which shouldn't be much more than what you would typically pay. I have been thinking of doing something similar to what your doing.

My current problem is I don't know what kind of frame modification is considered safe and acceptable.

Wanted to basically take a early 90's S10 frame, cut the front clip out and rear end section of frame and fabricate the mid section to connect the two so the frame runs along the main frame structure like yours does beside the doors. Then notch out the beretta sheet metal to slip on the frame and weld it to the frame.

Not interested in doing body mounts and not just plunking the body on an existing frame. I want it to be proper ride height.
Im not positive how normal insurance would look at my car. I dont even have emissions testing where I live, but they do a few miles from me haha.

I dont think there really is a "safe" way to do it, you change all the crush zones and no real way of knowing whats going to happen in a crash. But that being said, it cant be any more unsafe that a classic car. I think you would have better luck using the whole S10 frame and making it shorter/longer to match the wheel base, then just "sink it in" the car and weld it together. Always the bravada or astro too.. an issue with using a random frame is that its not built for what you want, by the time your done you may as well build one! Just my opinion, regardless it would be pretty cool to see it done with an S10 frame.


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88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

update from a few weeks ago, Just been too busy to get on here.

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angle Iron welded in, welds are nicer than they look in this picture dont worry. Not perfect.. but nicer lol.


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This is where it sits now. Going through ideas on how im going to make the driveshaft go through the frame when I connect the rails together in the back. Im pretty sure I have it figured out, just not ready to do it yet. Cant sit too low or it will screw up the flat floor im planning, cant sit too high or it will screw up the back seat haha. Hoping to have it welded in, but its looking like it will need to have the bottom bolted in to have driveshaft access. Need to think on it a bit more, and order some metal. If im not explaining it very well ill have pictures of it in a few weeks I think.


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88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
bonecrrusher
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by bonecrrusher »

Is the angle iron taking up the gap between the outer perimeter frame rail of the Beretta body- and the chassis frame rail that you are adding?


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Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

Yeah, the beretta has a slight angle to it and the angle iron is just enough of a spacer to make my frame perfectly at 90*. I think it will be easier to build the frame, and everything coming off of it if all my cuts are simple.


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88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

made some progress.

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The design. Through frame driveshaft loop. Decided it has to be a bolt in. Mandrel bent 1x2 .120 wall. I found some well on nuts that have an OD of 3/4" (on order) and take a 1/2" bolt. I gave up on finding metric. I will drill 4 1" holes, weld 1" .120 wall DOM tube inside and then weld the nuts in on top. Tube will prevent the frame from crushing when you tighten it down.

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I this is in the process of making it fit, Its currently welded. Even clamped down to 2x4 steel it warped a tad, not terrible but I need to straighten it somehow, about 1/8" off. I have the lower bolt on hoop cut, just got burnt out and called it a night. The lower loop section is the same height as the rest of the frame rails, that way It wont screw up my flat floor plans!

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also got that cut out so I can weld in my new piece (at the red line, just no picture of it done).


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88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

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Sadly couldnt grind this one smooth.. The shape on the mandrel bent loop isnt quite flat so it doesnt match up perfectly. Oh well.


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All welded up and straight. Had to straighten everything to make it fit together perfectly. I hate how metal moves when you weld it regardless of how secure it is!


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Measured out ready to drill.


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Perfect fit!


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The basic Idea. Pipe is just tossed in, needs prep and welded. I did screw up on the bolt in part, I should have used 3/4" .120 wall and not the same 1"... Ill have to sleeve it with some 3/4 so its aligned when its bolted in and not moving around. no biggie I guess but wtf lol, not sure how I missed that..

ill probably weld the pipe in when I get the weld in nuts this next week. But thats where it stands. Probably have 30 or so hours into that driveshaft loop so far..


Image
88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
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woody90gtz
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by woody90gtz »

That's a lot of time, but it looks really good. I saw you post the 1" .120 wall and 1/2" bolts and I wondered what I was missing...

Also...my work bench ends up looking the same during a project. haha


91 "SS" - WOT 3400/5spd - 13.29@101.6 - World's fastest N/A FWD Beretta
96 "T56" LS/6spd/8.8 RWD swap - 13.45@104.7 lol
GEARHEAD dezign youtube
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

Thanks! its too much time.. but hey. do it once right?

well the weld in nuts Im using will slide into the pipe if that makes sense. Ill get some pictures of it. But yeah it doesnt work the same for the bolt in part sadly lol. oh well.


haha, yeah.. its terrible lol, but what do you do? clean it or keep working? I get to rearrange my whole garage in a week or so, Ill clean it then :-P


Image
88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

back at it.

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DOM prepped.

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test fit


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test fitting

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tacked in!!


Image
88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

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decided to build a quick stand for the subframe so it wouldn't move when I cut the supports out, its exactly where I want it and it needs to stay!

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measuring out the frame rail to cut it

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the car just happen to be perfect height!

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rail poking through



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test fitting the rail


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88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

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drawing out the other side to cut

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sitting "in place"


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ready to weld! level, plumb, and square.

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got carried away. welded it all up!

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its better than the picture lol. doesnt look that great with all the weld through primer splatter.

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Image
88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

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and that is that! next step is to build rear subframe mounts and gusset the frame some more then the back is literally rolling.


Image
88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
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woody90gtz
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by woody90gtz »

Saweeeeet. That laser level does an amazing job figuring out your sheet metal cuts. Very cool with the fitment of the rail going through the trunk panel.


91 "SS" - WOT 3400/5spd - 13.29@101.6 - World's fastest N/A FWD Beretta
96 "T56" LS/6spd/8.8 RWD swap - 13.45@104.7 lol
GEARHEAD dezign youtube
Alxsmt
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Re: LS1/t56 swap

Post by Alxsmt »

Thanks! Yeah that laser is a great tool for so many things. I dont know how I would have made those cuts without it honestly


Image
88 Beretta CL - your average grandma car.. Ls1 swap in progress
77 Celica - needs an engine swap
96 Geo - 1.0L, Cam, 3 angle, magnaflow, Koni, coilovers.
86 Subi - Supercharged @7psi
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