Throttle Linkage Swap for TCE 65mm
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:22 am
Quick overview:
Tools needed
1. 8oz rubber mallet, or a deadblow hammer, or normal hammer with a wood block. You do want to smash the shaft end.
2. T15 Torqx(throttle plate screws),T20 (for IAC screws),T25 (for TPS)
3. 10mm 1/4 drive socket(3/8 drive will not work)
4. something like a wood bench or anything to set the TB on that won't trash the TB and have enough hight to let the shaft come out.
Ok lets get started, take off the TPS as this is where you are going to hit the shaft. Look at where everything is on the TB, how far the shaft is in and where the spring is sitting.Take the throttle plate out. IAC off too.
Set the TB on the work bench(put a piece of wood under it if you have a metal bench) and put the outside lip(where the air goes in) on the bench, spring down. The back of the TB should be toward you. With a wood block and a normal hammer you will need someone to hold the TB. That is why I used a rubber mallet. Strike the end of the shaft until it falls out. If it gets stuck on the lower bearing you can pull it out. Mine have always shot out an hit the floor(could put something soft under it). There are two things to keep track of when it hits. The spring and a little ring that keeps the shaft in place. That ring is on the TPS side and looks like part of the bearing. Try not to lose it, it keeps the shaft end play in check(I have heard that you can go without it, but I wouldn't).
You have the shaft out and are ready to put it into the other TB. Make sure that the sping is going the right way(flat tab to the body).
Now push the shaft into the "new" TB. When the spring gets close to the body place the flat end on the stop. Then turn the shaft 180 to load the spring(you will feel it getting tight). Make sure that it is in line with the other bearing.Then tap the shaft all the way in. The 3100 has a metal end where the linkage goes so you can hold everything in place and tap it in on a concrete floor.
Do not put the throttle plate in yet! First make sure that the shaft is all the way in. Then get that ring, it goes round side down(it won't do anything if it's not). Push it down as far as you can, then put the 10mm 1/4 drive deep well socket on top of it. Now you can use a normal hammer to get the ring on. With the linkage end on the concrete floor pound the ring down. Check end play until you feel little to no movement from the shaft. Just tap the linkage end on the floor and see if the shaft has moved up.
Time to put the plate back in. There are bumps on stock plates, they go down. Put the plate in and close the throttle. Put the screws in most of the way. Line up the plate in the bore. If you need to adjust more open the throttle. Just look at the bumps and the sides(hold up to the light see the gap on the sides from the back). Once it is even all around tighten the screws.
IAC and TPS back on and your done.
Tools needed
1. 8oz rubber mallet, or a deadblow hammer, or normal hammer with a wood block. You do want to smash the shaft end.
2. T15 Torqx(throttle plate screws),T20 (for IAC screws),T25 (for TPS)
3. 10mm 1/4 drive socket(3/8 drive will not work)
4. something like a wood bench or anything to set the TB on that won't trash the TB and have enough hight to let the shaft come out.
Ok lets get started, take off the TPS as this is where you are going to hit the shaft. Look at where everything is on the TB, how far the shaft is in and where the spring is sitting.Take the throttle plate out. IAC off too.
Set the TB on the work bench(put a piece of wood under it if you have a metal bench) and put the outside lip(where the air goes in) on the bench, spring down. The back of the TB should be toward you. With a wood block and a normal hammer you will need someone to hold the TB. That is why I used a rubber mallet. Strike the end of the shaft until it falls out. If it gets stuck on the lower bearing you can pull it out. Mine have always shot out an hit the floor(could put something soft under it). There are two things to keep track of when it hits. The spring and a little ring that keeps the shaft in place. That ring is on the TPS side and looks like part of the bearing. Try not to lose it, it keeps the shaft end play in check(I have heard that you can go without it, but I wouldn't).
You have the shaft out and are ready to put it into the other TB. Make sure that the sping is going the right way(flat tab to the body).
Now push the shaft into the "new" TB. When the spring gets close to the body place the flat end on the stop. Then turn the shaft 180 to load the spring(you will feel it getting tight). Make sure that it is in line with the other bearing.Then tap the shaft all the way in. The 3100 has a metal end where the linkage goes so you can hold everything in place and tap it in on a concrete floor.
Do not put the throttle plate in yet! First make sure that the shaft is all the way in. Then get that ring, it goes round side down(it won't do anything if it's not). Push it down as far as you can, then put the 10mm 1/4 drive deep well socket on top of it. Now you can use a normal hammer to get the ring on. With the linkage end on the concrete floor pound the ring down. Check end play until you feel little to no movement from the shaft. Just tap the linkage end on the floor and see if the shaft has moved up.
Time to put the plate back in. There are bumps on stock plates, they go down. Put the plate in and close the throttle. Put the screws in most of the way. Line up the plate in the bore. If you need to adjust more open the throttle. Just look at the bumps and the sides(hold up to the light see the gap on the sides from the back). Once it is even all around tighten the screws.
IAC and TPS back on and your done.