Beretta.net

I have a 95' obd2 swapped beretta 3400/3500 hybrid with 60k on the bottom end, with headers, ported/polished everything, and an upgraded 4t60e.

I would like to run this kit on 8-10psi (was told around 80-100hp) because i have stock engine internals except for SD headgaskets and metal lim gaskets

I would like to know what exactly i would need to do to an RSM kit to make it work.
I was told i would need to modify the shaft length?
And was told i will need to make a bracket to mount one end to the trans?
Also what walbro fuel pump would i need as well as size injectors?

I need to know what all i would have to modify/fab for an n-body or w-body v5 kit to work with my car, I deff want to buy a used one, $3600 is way to steep

Grand am aka n-body for $3600 from RSM aka z-spec
http://www.z-spec.com/grandamperformance.htm

I am currently looking for a used setup or kit to purchase.
I basicly need to know everything and I am new to all of this and any info would help.
And to add i am a machinist so i can get any metal and either cnc or manual mill anything i want.

thanx!

As I told you before... No one has done one on a Beretta, your the first one who wants to take this on so your going to have to answer a lot of those questions on your own when it comes to mounting and such.

I ment just the rsm kit, not a v5

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/vortech ... 17632.html

here ya go. and cheap!

i believe i messaged him, its sold, but thats exactly what i need, he even had the 4t60e trans mount i needed :/

So i bought an rsm kit for a grand am and im using it, its a VF-9 with a 6-8psi pulley, and came with a comptech aftercooler.

So ive gotten one and have the following done on the build,
[*]Installed: Walbro 255 fuel pump, 42lb lucas injectors, headers, different flexible rad hose, motor oil cooler w/ SS Lines + trans stacked plate cooler& had my auto trans built up, installed a GlowShift tinted boost gauge, and did an a/c delete.
[*]Had to shorten the shaft of the s/c a bit so that the s/c would sit where it wouldn't hit the rad outlet, and installed 17k rpm bearings and harder keys ect (all the fixes) and had to modify/create a bracket to mount the s/c to my 4t60-e trans.
[*]I removed my abs to make some room for the aftercooler and relocated the battery to the trunk with 2awg welding wire.
[*]Also removed the oil pan to drill/tap for the oil sender and switched to synthetic oil while i was at it.

The routing of the piping was a PITA due to the fact that im jamming an aftercooler in there too and im still not completely happy with it but i think i finally almost got it..
Soon it will be all in and will receive a full DHP tune.

pretty cool

Just me, but I recommend against the tinted vac/boost gauge if you want to watch it during the day.. That's what I have on my car but I can't see it during the day unless it's overcast. Though you don't really "need" it..

But it looks really clean! Nice setup.

Z26_T wrote:Just me, but I recommend against the tinted vac/boost gauge if you want to watch it during the day.. That's what I have on my car but I can't see it during the day unless it's overcast. Though you don't really "need" it..

But it looks really clean! Nice setup.

Well i currently have 3 other tinted gauges in my retta, i never had a problem with them even with my windows being tinted

looks pretty bad ass i think your the first to s/c a beretta since norm crowe did it like 10 yrs ago or better. were you able to run it at the track before s/c it???

MY91GT(Z) wrote:looks pretty bad ass i think your the first to s/c a beretta since norm crowe did it like 10 yrs ago or better. were you able to run it at the track before s/c it???

No i didnt, all my mods ran untuned for a long while and didn't want to see the lacking potential

McGavin SC'd a 3400 with an M90 from an L67, this was back in 2004/2005.

It will be interesting to see the results of this since I've been wanting to do something like this for a long time.

Keep an eye on those shaft bearings. Unless they've been upgraded that was the weak link on the RSM kits.

3X00-Modified wrote:It will be interesting to see the results of this since I've been wanting to do something like this for a long time.

Keep an eye on those shaft bearings. Unless they've been upgraded that was the weak link on the RSM kits.

Its cool to know im the first in awhile ha.
Upgraded them to bearings rated to 17k rpm, also rebroached the keyways tighter and made keys from tool steel.

Slinky wrote: and made keys from tool steel.

I don't know if I would have gone that far... You still want a key to fail before something else breaks. Its supposed to be a sheer point to save the shaft, pulley, belt and SC internals.

And really all you have to beat is a low 16 since you don't have another time on your car and you should feel accomplished since it's quicker than a stock Z26... LOL

Keep chugging.