Beretta.net

I bead tubing all the time. You could send me the tubes and I could do it for you.

I appreciate the offer wicked but I have a little different set up now with some better couplers and hose clamps, If I continue to have problems I will definitely take you up on your offer..

While I had the plan I'm off to put the spacers and everything on I did the heat wrap fuel rail mod That I saw on a grandam website, Everything fits a lot nicer with the half inch spacers under my cowl

New ebay seats i picked up for $125 goin in this weekend..

The S/C seems to be killing my belt tensionrs very quickly, i just went through my second one in about 5k miles.. After alittle while they just start rattling like crazy.

I have tried the normal advance auto brand and than went to the HEAVY DUTY goodyear one..

Any ideas?

Whats rattling on them?

Are you running with too much tension? too short of a belt? Not enough tension? Things to consider.

3X00-Modified wrote:Whats rattling on them?

Are you running with too much tension? too short of a belt? Not enough tension? Things to consider.

I pretty much had to set up everything in than measure for a belt length and then when I came in I can't remember it was either a little too big or little too small so I made another pulley for on the tensioner so that it would fit nice and tight and not slip on the supercharger was really spinning, But anyway it's sort of like bounces like hopps at idle I'm not sure if the belt tensioners too tight or too loose or if its just to much stress from the s/c

They always bounce at idle, mine even does that but It's a question on if its too tight then it could be causing your spring to go over tension and then wear it out quicker. Remember the tension matters to a degree but belt wrap on the SC will matter more, as long as that pulley is wrapped well then you will have less of a chance of it slipping so no need to go crazy tight.

yeah i think im going to get a tensioner with a warranty and than make my pulley for it a little smaller..

Been a while, time to bring this thread back to life..

Weather has been starting to warm up so Jon and i have continued our tuning, meanwhile i broke my RSM shaft, completely sheered it off..
I believe the failure was because they used cheap steel as well as had no Radii in the corners of the diameter transitions..
Also they has a hole drilled in the pulley end drilled and tapped for a 4" long bolt for no reason that i can figure out, which made the shaft a piece of .190" wall pipe instead of a strong solid shaft.
I also believe all of the heat from my headers caused it to fail.
And also for some reason believe that the RSM shaft was made from 3pcs where it sheered that were welded together at the diameter transition to save on material cost, rather than a solid shaft.

To fix these problems to deal with the heat issue i took everything apart and took my headers off,
First i completely bead blasted my headers, than coated them with 4 coats of VHT flameproof, than baked them in an oven appropriately, than waited for it to cool down than did the deed of wrapping them with wrap, (i know it causes rust and blah blah blah) but to stop that i coated the wrap with 3 coates of DEI header wrap silicone spray to keep moisture out..

Next i re-bought the bearings/oil seals that i got the last time (good for 18,000RPM vs shatty RSM bearing only good for 6,000RPM) and installed them in the new end housing i machined..

Next i ordered some 4140 shaft material and turned down a new shaft making the tolerances a lot tighter than the one that broke and also added radius' in all the corners, also the new shaft is .875" vs the one that broke that was .670"

Next i drilled/tapped the pulley end only 1" deep so that the shaft is solid where it flex's so that it wont bend than fatigue and cause it to break from the pulley flexing it..
I also created a sort of support for the bearing housing on the pulley end to stop the shaft from bending, it rests on the water pump housing with a piece of rubber in between to stop chattering and absorb shock/flex.

I am debating on using a sort of flex coupler such as the one used in Eaton supercharger's somewhere on the shaft or at one of the ends to absorb shock/flex/vibrations, but i am not sure exactly how to make it work yet

Broken RSM shaft top, new stronger shaft bottom


(Left) new bearing housing with greese port,
(middle) new end coupling, not finished yet
(right) bearing housing support
(bottom) shafts

Looks good! Random question.. I'm guessing you're running a cobalt map sensor. Did you make a bracket to hold it in the stock location or..?

Thanx!

Everything is back together and running properly the tuning is nearly done Jon and I are just messing with a little bit of timing now..

I will take a pic today when I get home of what I did with the map sensor, I still need to go to get a bracket for it..

Interior picc

Heres the pic of the map, kinda rigged it up, never had a 3500 map bracket..

Ah dang. I thought you were running a 3400 intake for some reason.. Thanks for the pic anyways though! How much clearance do you have between your hood and UIM?

Z26_T wrote:Ah dang. I thought you were running a 3400 intake for some reason.. Thanks for the pic anyways though! How much clearance do you have between your hood and UIM?

Not a lot.. I cant run any plenum spacers with the stock hood, but i have a cowl induction hood which still doesn't give me much room, i can only run 5/8" plenum spacers before it hits he hood