Beretta Turbo Updates

Want to know how to get more out of your Beretta? Or have a mod you would like to share?
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IsaacHayes
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Post by IsaacHayes »

I didn't mean to say AFPR. I was thinking of a FMU and just typed out AFPR.  So yeah you are just using a SFMU is all other than stock ecm.

Sorry, I'm getting really, really, really bad about reading things, then asking a question and the answer is what I just read. What's wrong with me here lately? sheeesh. No short term memory I guess! I'm going to go sit in the corner until I can remember what I really was going to ask....

Ok, here is one, what intercooler are you using? Have you drove it on the street with the 5psi and tune? How does it feel? You need a 3400 in there with a 3500 port matched upper to really get the air flowing through that motor!!

EDITED this because it didn't make much sense either. I'm going to bed.





Image Image 2010 project (click pic)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles.
16.0 @ 84.41mph when stock. Now ???
Original L82 w/LA1, LX9, & LX5 parts!!!

soon to be OBD1 tuned...
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gtuturbo
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Post by gtuturbo »

(wicked-irocz @ Apr. 23 2006,23:29)Q
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EBy TGP cruise thing im not exactly sure what you mean, but Im guessing you mean the actuator.  Im not going to run a check valve in the line to the transmission as I have been told that the modulator will work just like it does for when you go to WOT NA, only more so, which is part of the reason 4t60-e's work so well for boost (or so ive been told). ÂÂÂ

I have a SFMU and will have atleast 55 psi at 5 psi of boost when everythings done.  Im testing my fuel flow tommarro to see what the pump can push at 55psi.  Im likely going to go with the 190hp if I can but I think the suction side might not come in the right design.  THanks for the appreciation.

Im definatly sure I do not have a leak, I have 18" at idle and I definatly do not run at idle at 55.  Ill check again like I said but thats just what I can remember, the road was pretty hilly.

Im using a SFMU and like I said above Im getting up to above 14 to 1 at the end of the pull due to my fuel pressure dropping.  I also moved a few sensors to better work with the turbo.  So far I have neither heard nor datalogged any knock.  You can read more above. ÂÂÂ
Yes 18" at idle. Sorry.  I run about 12" at 55 mph .


It just seemed like 5" was low for cruising.


Paul Keller
1988 Chevrolet Beretta GTU (turbocharged) (bought new in August 1988)
1966 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
2020 Chevrolet Equinox LT
2017 Kia Sorento V6 AWD
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rweatherford
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Post by rweatherford »

I'd say the OD gearing is much higher than Paul's car and is causing a high load during low speed cruising.  I would not think that 5" would be out of the norm for that speed.  Especially if there was any incline at all to the road.


Rex Weatherford
92 Beretta GTZ Quad4 Turbo / 5-speed (sold)
Best 1/4 ET =  13.523 @ 105.16 mph

07 Mazda 5 Black on Black (it's slow)

wicked-irocz
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Post by wicked-irocz »

I am using the SFMU, 19# injectors out of a police interceptor, and some moved sensors for tuning.  No, I havent driven it on the street at 5 psi, just 3 because I still am running way leaner than Id like at 5 psi.  Im using an intercooler I bought on eBay, I have a 2 psi pressure loss from the turbo to the manifold so Im going to check out that intercooler cause I checked everything else. its like  28" wide or something like that by 6" high.  Its a bar and plate.



I tested my fuel flow at 60psi.  I did some research last night and it seams as if most GM pumps have a pressure relief at 50 psi.  Mcgavin was right about the valve, but off on the pressure.  I would be fine if it was at 63 psi like he thought.  Oh well, at 60 psi, I get 25lbs/hr when I need atleast 115lbs/hr there.  I ordered a Walbro 190 with the universal GM install kit and the smallest sock you can get since it fits inside the module.  I couldnt get the 190hp as the inlet is the wrong design and offsets the sock.  It should still flow enough to near 80 psi at 12 v so it shouldnt be to much of a problem.





94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler :shock:

Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
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IsaacHayes
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Post by IsaacHayes »

What is our 3100 injectors stock? 17#? Is the 3400 stock 19#? What's it feel like at 3psi WOT on the street? I forget the details but a 225gph walbro will fit, I think it's for an f-body.

Do you think you have it tuned about as best as you can get with a FMU? Once you get that hi-flow pump you *shouldn't* be lean anymore at 5psi correct? What octane are you running on the last test?

You're pretty close!


Image Image 2010 project (click pic)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles.
16.0 @ 84.41mph when stock. Now ???
Original L82 w/LA1, LX9, & LX5 parts!!!

soon to be OBD1 tuned...
rweatherford
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Post by rweatherford »

Your intercooler is poorly designed.  I'm not sure how thick it is, but you usually want a 3 inch thick core and the flow to go the shortest route.  Yours is the longest, which is causing much more restriction than necessary.  Very few people make them properly.  


Rex Weatherford
92 Beretta GTZ Quad4 Turbo / 5-speed (sold)
Best 1/4 ET =  13.523 @ 105.16 mph

07 Mazda 5 Black on Black (it's slow)

nocutt
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Post by nocutt »

Q
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EOriginally Posted by Wicked on: Apr. 23 2006,17:58
Im using an intercooler I bought on eBay, I have a 2 psi pressure loss from the turbo to the manifold so Im going to check out that intercooler cause I checked everything else.

Just curious how did you come to measure this?


rweatherford
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Post by rweatherford »

Put one gauge at the turbo outlet and one at the TB, or one on each side the intercooler to be more exact on which component is the bottle neck.

I also have a similar drop on my car.  Only at high flow levels.


Rex Weatherford
92 Beretta GTZ Quad4 Turbo / 5-speed (sold)
Best 1/4 ET =  13.523 @ 105.16 mph

07 Mazda 5 Black on Black (it's slow)

payback
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Post by payback »

hard core setup, those numbers are a bit low stock though, usually fwd cars dont lose more than 30 hp through the drivetrain, i would most DEFINATLY get rid of any crush/press bent exhaust and wouldnt be suprised if you saw a noticeable increase from that alone.


'96Z26:Eibach springs, KYB struts, GM Strut brace, K&N cone
wicked-irocz
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Post by wicked-irocz »

3100 injectors are 17# and 3400 pre 2000 injectors are 19# but I used the 19# ford motorsport injectors which must be flowed at less pressure than the GM units because they flowed more than they should have when comparing my stock units to them.  I do not need the flow of a 255 and since I run such a low static and idle pressure I didnt want to get a pump thats to big.  Ive been running 91 octane in every test over 3 psi but I think I can get away with 89 since I havent experienced knock or detonation even at above 14 to 1 at 5 psi.

Rex, it is 3" thick, I just got one that fit in the area I had well, I know it isnt the best designed.  I didnt have the $600 to buy one of the same size but vertical.

I dont have the time right now to replace the only section of pipe I want replaced and I dont like the idea of all that exposed weld so Im not sure how long it will be until I replace it.  Ive already discussed the hp numbers and why they are low, read my explanation.  The big thing here is I know my motor is healthy, and I used a scientific test procedure that is comparative to itself.

Im off to work on my gauge pod and go to class.  My gauges are still just laying there. ÂÂÂ





94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler :shock:

Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
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Beretta Turbo Updates

Post by Guest »

150 whp is very low for that setup... I'm getting that on a n/a 3400... I guess you have more tuning and other tweaks ahead...... Oh and 160hp crank to 106whp... thats not right either, you dont lose 54hp through the driveline.  (if i read that right)


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KFLO 93 GT
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Post by KFLO 93 GT »

I don't think anyone is addressing another fact here.  Dusty has been running on a Mustang Dyno, not a Dynojet.  Given differences I've seen between the 2 before, I can easily see Dusty's car putting those numbers down.  Tim (AquaZ26) put down something like 138whp on the Mustang dyno, and then like 155 or 160whp down on a Dynojet at Bfest 03 - with his full Street Arsenal(give or take its effectiveness) 3400 set up.  Given that difference, I can see Dusty's numbers being damn close. ÂÂÂ

It's not that one is right or wrong, It's just differences in measurement and calculation. ÂÂÂ


I think this is very kick *** dude.  We will definately have to meet up this summer at a track.  Are you thinking of coming to Bonerfest at all, or shall we try to meet up later on this summer at Cedar Falls, or potentially a Mn track?  I don't care if you run at all, I'd just like to see this nice piece of work. ÂÂÂ
We should talk about refabbing a crossover on my headers to use them for turbo headers....   msn me sometime dude.





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93 GTs
nocutt
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Post by nocutt »

(rweatherford @ Apr. 24 2006,07:20)Q
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E...or one on each side the intercooler to be more exact on which component is the bottle neck.

I also have a similar drop on my car.  Only at high flow levels.
Exactly why I was asking...A better picture of how the pressure drop was measured and where is important however I asked because if you do not know the temperature differential across, how can you assume the IC is designed improperly?...


wicked-irocz
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Post by wicked-irocz »

THANK YOU KFLO,  I dont know about bonerfest, the mini bonerfest with just an auto x is scheduled bad for me and is a little to small for the trip.  Im hoping to go to cedar falls sometime this summer, hopefully with my truck rolling on 25" tires and massive wheel gap, beretta, and my buddies trucks.  Im up for custom work on cars, for anyone, but Id definately help ya out if I can schedule some time, we will see.  You got that all together now?

I do not know the temperature differential but I measured the pressure at the outlet to the turbo that is connected to the wastegate in the picture and in the manifold.  The turbo outlet temperature reached a max of 156* I believe.

I did not make any progress on my gauge pod as when I went out to my car to get it I found this

Its through the base color for over a foot and overall about 3 feet long, very little will buff out.  I found a beer can placed right side up with beer in it under my car and had prints ran on it, checked the campus security cameras, and called my insurance company.  No prints were good enough to use  .  Hopefully my insurance will cover it, Im hoping, but its unlikely.  Needless to say, I didnt get much accomplished after 3 when I found it.





94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler :shock:

Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
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zach82
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Post by zach82 »

Man that sucks about the keying That's exactly why I quit driving my Beretta to school up here, it got keyed twice the first semester I was here.  Hope your insurance will cover that... I wonder if that will fall under comprehensive?  Probably not, but if you have full coverage you'll probably be ok.  Depends on the deductible and how much it'll cost to get that taken care of.

College parking lots are absolute hell on cars, idiots, drunks, and assholes really don't play well with vehicles in a parking lot.  My Jeep has been rubbed or bumped about 5 or 6 times now since I've had it here. I'm just waiting till after I'm done this semester cause I know it'll just get screwed up again if I get it touched up.





1994 Purple Pearl Base (RWD conversion project)
1973/77 Ford 3/4 ton 4X4 long bed
1987 Suzuki Samurai / heavily modded
My site  http://www.zcm82.net
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