Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Want to know how to get more out of your Beretta? Or have a mod you would like to share?
3400tZ
Registered User
Posts: 70
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:47 pm

Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3400tZ »

I know you guys around here would do it the other way around but I thought it could be interesting still so here it is. I bought lx9power beretta (3500 swapped) late 2012. Pretty much everything was fucked except the engine. So, I'm taking the engine out, doing a mild build and installing it in my already turbo car, 1993 cavalier z24 (currently 3400).

Here are all the pictures of progress. Sorry if the captions doesn't always make sense, this is copy pasted from multiple posts of my thread on another forum. :D

Build:
- ARP head studs
- ARP rod bolts
- WOT-TECH street/strip turbo cam with pushrods
- Teflon coated wide cam bearings
- Compcam 26915 valve springs
- TCE DRTC
- GM graphite head gaskets with GM intake gaskets
- Top pistons rings re-gaped for boost (0.025" instead of ~0.012")

Image

Before:
Image

During:
Image

Almost!
Image

Done:
Image

Now to tear down into that engine and install the goodies :D

Anyway, tonight's plan was to remove the plenum and clean it, but...

Image

Clean head, sweet!
Image

Looks clean... Is that GM that use this gasket maker mess or someone was in there before me ?
Image

Never seen intake ports that clean :O
Image

Pistons looks good too!
Image

And they clean really easy, that's good!
Image

Continuing today, removing some more stuff
Image

Cleaned and painted the LIM and valve covers, that took forever :lol:
Image

Cleaned the pistons
Image

Flipped the block upside down, time to get the crank out!
Image

Rod bearings all looked like this, that's good!
Image

Why GM install the ring gaps so close ? Or do they turn on the pistons over time ? Oh well... I won't reinstall them like that :D
Image

Bare block!
Image

Crank has some weird mark, is that a forged crank or not ? :|
Image

Got a POR15 engine paint kit, chevy red, gonna use that on the block :D, 101$ :O
Image

Looks very complete at least!
Image

Dropped the crank at the machine shop on monday to be machined for the double roller timing chain. No news yet :roll: Hopefully next week I will have it back.

Anyway, I painted the block chevy red, cleaned and painted the timing cover and started removing some material on the inside to clear the DRTC.

Plenum and heads are next now.

Few pics:

Image
Image
Image

Finally got a call from the machine shop yesterday that my crank was ready so I picked it up this morning.
Image

Looks like they did a decent job
Image

This thing should fit fine now... so much more beefier than the stock one (which felt a bit stretched also and this is not even an high mileage engine)
Image

Got the plenum cleaned and painted... slowly but surely!
Image

Block looks good now that the paint is fully dry
Image

Compcam 26915! I never had an issue with those so the 3500 got a set of those as well!
Image

YAY!
Image

Didn't realize this springs compressor was that big until I got it but I don't care, almost died once with a crap valve compressor, I would rather have an overkill one now :lol: (heads need to be cleaned still)
Image

Both heads done!
Image

GM is using the second set of threads as a spacer ? DAFUQ, that sounds gettho for OEM ? ARP bolts seems a much better design
Image

ARP rod bolts installed
Image

Painted the oil pump drive thingy and bracket/bolt
Image

Oil pan painted and magnetic drain plug installed
Image

Head after a basic cleanup, those graphite gaskets stick really well :-?
Image

Used a marble table, a bunch sand papers, contact glue and 6 beers. 1h30 per head later, ended up with clean heads!
Image

I wasn't sure if I should replace the cam bearings or not but after seeing the bearings, I had no choice.
Image

Good thing I got a set of those from WOT-Tech just in case
Image

New cam bearings VS old one
Image

GM stock bearings are a real joke
Image

Cam bearings going in, not easy!
Image

All done
Image

Cam and Comp Cam engine assembly lube
Image

Ready to go
Image

Cam going in!
Image

Starting on the DRTC install!
Image

Block ready to go
Image

Crank back in
Image

TCE Timing chain
Image

Timing
Image

Top ring gapped to 0.025 (from about 0.012 :O), bottom ring untouched
Image

Bottom assembled with ARP rod bolts
Image

Pistons all back in
Image

ARP head studs :love:
Image

GM graphite gaskets
Image

Starting to look like an engine again
Image

ARP head studs awesomeness!
Image

GM lower intake gaskets and custom pushrod matched with the cam
Image
Image

I think this is a bit overkill but added some RTV there just in case :D
Image

Got the LIM back on
Image

Oil pan temporary on (waiting on fittings for turbo drain)
Image

Front main seal looks so much better on 3500 than 3400, I guess I will use that on 3400 as well from now on. They always leak on 3.1/3400 :/
Image

Crank trigger and UIM on
Image

Mostly done, just need to finalize a few things, YAY!
Image
Image
Image

And a before / after pic just for fun, geeeeeeeez :lol:
Image


Image
User avatar
woody90gtz
Registered User
Posts: 4698
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 8:45 pm
Location: Walton, NY
Contact:

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by woody90gtz »

Looks really sharp. I like it.


91 "SS" - WOT 3400/5spd - 13.29@101.6 - World's fastest N/A FWD Beretta
96 "T56" LS/6spd/8.8 RWD swap - 13.45@104.7 lol
GEARHEAD dezign youtube
3400tZ
Registered User
Posts: 70
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:47 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3400tZ »

woody90gtz wrote:Looks really sharp. I like it.
You have to man, there is no chrome on it :lol: :wink:

Thanks!


Image
User avatar
3X00-Modified
Administrator
Posts: 10912
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Brooklyn CT

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Doing a lot of work but then you hand sanded the heads :/ should be ok but I always have mine milled at a shop just to be sure they are good.

I need to build a Damn full 3500 now that I can make my own trans bracket. Back in 07 I just didn't have the tools to do it.

Is that a gm front seal or do the aftermarket companies make a comparable seal for the 3500?


Mr.Pink
Supreme Unit
Sleepy Goodness
"Beretta Guy"
User avatar
Slinky
Registered User
Posts: 939
Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:27 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by Slinky »

3X00-Modified wrote:Doing a lot of work but then you hand sanded the heads :/ should be ok but I always have mine milled at a shop just to be sure they are good.
I agree doing it on a marble table with some very thin feeler gauge would ensure that the outer edges were flat but not the inner areas, machining them with a fly cutter or something would have ensured a much flatter surface overall, But if he was careful enough with a sanding block you should probably be okay..
3X00-Modified wrote:I need to build a Damn full 3500 now that I can make my own trans bracket. Back in 07 I just didn't have the tools to do it.
You and me both Jon!
Where you build two I take one :twisted:

And if you could draw up a trans bracket I could CNC whatever you/i would need


1 Of 1 Street Legal Centri S/c Beretta's In Existance
User avatar
3X00-Modified
Administrator
Posts: 10912
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Brooklyn CT

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3X00-Modified »

I'd probably build a template from plate steel and just plasma it out, I think CNCing the parts would just be stupid expensive, it's mostly flat surfaces that you can all 90* weld together rather than bending it like the factory one.


Mr.Pink
Supreme Unit
Sleepy Goodness
"Beretta Guy"
User avatar
Slinky
Registered User
Posts: 939
Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:27 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by Slinky »

3X00-Modified wrote:I'd probably build a template from plate steel and just plasma it out, I think CNCing the parts would just be stupid expensive, it's mostly flat surfaces that you can all 90* weld together rather than bending it like the factory one.
Or FloJet


1 Of 1 Street Legal Centri S/c Beretta's In Existance
User avatar
Money pit Beretta
Registered User
Posts: 6411
Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
Location: Kansas

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Boy and I thought I went a little crazy with the Ultra Copper. Someone went nuts with that on the LIMG.


keep'em flying!
3400tZ
Registered User
Posts: 70
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:47 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3400tZ »

The front seal is straight from the dealer!

I knew you guys would freak out about the heads but I'm sure they will be more than fine. I used to do it with a sander and sometime even by hand. Only time I had HG problem (on maybe 5+ engines) is when I used felpro crap but I'm 99.9% sure it was the gaskets fault, so I will continue to save 100$ there :)


Image
heavywoody
Global Moderator
Posts: 1991
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 4:10 pm
Location: Concord, NC
Contact:

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by heavywoody »

This looks great, and gives me some ideas...

But why would you put the upper intake on with no fuel injectors/fuel rails?


Geoff
95 Z26 Turbo 3400 5spd - R&D Project
Beretta Preservation Society - Director of Acquisitions
Image
3400tZ
Registered User
Posts: 70
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:47 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3400tZ »

Well, just to see what it looks like, it takes 2 seconds to remove... I'm reusing my 65lbs injectors and dual feed fuel rail.

Image


Image
User avatar
Rettax3
Registered User
Posts: 1805
Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:34 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by Rettax3 »

Very nice work. Thanks for all the pics, it is great when people take the time to share the details of a build-up like this. It is also great to see work from someone who actually knows how to build and engine. I didn't see any plasti-gauge, but if the crank-journals weren't touched and you re-used original bearings, it isn't strictly necessary. Taking the time to clearance the gaps on piston-rings is part of the difference between someone who does the job right and someone who slaps junk together. I'll say it again, nice work. Personally, I don't have any problem with it going into your Z-24, I'm looking forward to the next installation of pictures, thanks for sharing.


1989 SuperCharged 3800 Srs-II (First)Six-Speed GTU
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
3400tZ
Registered User
Posts: 70
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:47 pm

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3400tZ »

Thanks. I don't actually know how to build an engine :lol: Well, it's my first from a bare block anyway. I didn't plasti gauge the bearings because everything went back in as it came out. Every time I did it before turned out to be a major waste of time so I said f** it for this time.

Pistons rings I wanted to do to have more room for mistake. Now tuning (or whatever lean condition) mistake can last longer before the ring end will touch together and explode the pistons. It can still happen tho, ask me how I know :lol:

Glad you liked the pics, wouldn't seeing some of your L67 beretta and especially F40 swap :D


Image
User avatar
berettaboi
Registered User
Posts: 973
Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:58 pm
Location: canananada

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by berettaboi »

looks awesome! and makes me watna 3500 really bad now... although i wouldn't be doing anything to it... damn you


4th one's a charm, 5th one is, beginnning to sound like this is an addiction...
95 black z26, '96 White z26 awaiting new life, and 2.5 mazda trucks
Image
User avatar
3X00-Modified
Administrator
Posts: 10912
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Brooklyn CT

Re: Cammed Turbo 3500 Build ** w/ TON OF PICTURES **

Post by 3X00-Modified »

With the way things are machined these days, Plasti-gauge and sending pistons in with an engine block to be bored are really old school methods and not really needed. I always gap rings on a new ring installation since if you don't it can create some major issues... Especially on a FI build.

Everyone was having a coronary when I said I sent my Subaru block in with out the pistons yet when I got it back my bore gauge measured them all in at .0025"-.003" clearance. I also had the crank checked and it was within spec so I just used OEM sized new bearings. Most of the checking with plasti-gauge is to ensure the parts you have are within spec as well as the crank, if you can't measure them in another way.


Mr.Pink
Supreme Unit
Sleepy Goodness
"Beretta Guy"
Post Reply