sunday is the day, hopefully

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bagged_and_loud
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sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by bagged_and_loud »

That I get time finally to fix my limg!


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3X00-Modified
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by 3X00-Modified »

I thought this car got totaled... or did I read that wrong somewhere?


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bagged_and_loud
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by bagged_and_loud »

No John that was my black one. Last year it got totaled this is the purple z with the bags and what not. Lol, over had four since last year


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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Ah yes, just went back and read this...
Burning_Beard wrote:Yep thats me. What happened to that black z26?
I missed that and read your post as almost a status update.


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Money pit Beretta
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Best of luck. Ask anything without fear.


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bagged_and_loud
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by bagged_and_loud »

It's going to be a learning curve. Never tore into an engine like that, or ever used a torque wrench. Hope this fixes it and the motor lasts. I'll keep this updated.


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Money pit Beretta
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Watch some Youtube videos before you start. Make sure you have everything needed and have an idea of what to do. You are going to need a one inch wrench to get the belt off. I have one that is newer that slips off the tensioner. If I borrow my dads it works just fine. They are the same brand (Craftsman), but were made many years apart. Do some testing before you start. Cheap wrenches are not the size that they say so a 15/16 may be better if using them.


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bagged_and_loud
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by bagged_and_loud »

I don't have to worry about cheap tools Lol, I'm covered there. Thanks for the advice on the vids, good idea.


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Money pit Beretta
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by Money pit Beretta »

By a take out pizza, eat it and poke holes in the top of the box to keep the pushrods in the right order. That is if there is no cheese or oil on it.
:ROFL: That is the way I did it twice.
If you don't want to take the TB off just unhook the throttle cable and cruise control cable. It's easy to get them off, but a pain to get them back on. You really need an extra set of hands for the throttle cable. That is because you have to hold the throttle wide open.
Watch as many videos as you can. If you find a good one you will feel like you have done it before. Well that is a guess.


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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by Rettax3 »

Money pit Beretta wrote:If you don't want to take the TB off just unhook the throttle cable and cruise control cable. It's easy to get them off, but a pain to get them back on. You really need an extra set of hands for the throttle cable. That is because you have to hold the throttle wide open.
Regarding the TB, don't forget about the anti-icing coolant hoses that run to the bottom of it -those hoses/clamps can be very difficult to get to while everything is attached...

You can also put the handle of a screw-driver or something else like that into the throttle-plate to keep it open while hooking up the cable if it is causing you trouble, but I've never had a problem myself.

It is overall a straight-forward procedure, especially if you have a service-manual or some other guide to help. The toughest part is removing the power steering pump, and that really isn't all that technical. As Money Pit suggests, use a box with holes in it or some other method to keep track of where each push-rod came from, and which way is up. The 60-degree V-6s are a piece of cake for reinstalling the rocker arms too. Get the ends of the block at the lifter valley between the heads clean and dry before applying the new RTV silicon, and don't use too much of it, usually a 1/4"-5/16" bead is more than enough. Place a rag or some paper-towels down into the lifter-valley when cleaning those block ends to keep dirt, old silicon, etc out of the engine, and carefully use a razor-scraper and finish wiping it down with a contact cleaner (or carburetor cleaner -this works great). If anything falls down there, make sure it gets washed down into the oil-pan and off of the cam-shaft, and I like to pour a little bit of oil down onto the lifters and exposed surfaces of the camshaft before re-assembly. Remember to do an oil-change immediately afterwards, to dispose of the contaminated oil, and consider doing a short-term change (100-200 miles, or less) with cheap oil to flush-out the oil passages, don't forget to replace the filter too. Torque the bolts to specification in the correct order, I personally take 2-3 steps at least, increasing the torque each time until hitting the specified amount just to keep anything from warping or taking too much force unevenly. Aside from that, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. Which LIMG set did you decide to go with?


1989 SuperCharged 3800 Srs-II (First)Six-Speed GTU
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
bagged_and_loud
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by bagged_and_loud »

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be going with felpro gasket kit. Metal for the limg and has the valve cover gaskets too.


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Rettax3
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by Rettax3 »

bagged_and_loud wrote:Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be going with felpro gasket kit. Metal for the limg and has the valve cover gaskets too.
:good: Probably couldn't treat your car any better than that. Let me just say 'thank you' for doing this right. :beer:


1989 SuperCharged 3800 Srs-II (First)Six-Speed GTU
1990 Turbo 3.4 5-Speed T-Type
1990 4.0L 4-Cam 32-Valve V-8 5-Speed Indy GTi (Project)
1990 Stock(!) 3.1 MPFI Auto Indy
1995 LA1/L82 4T60E Z-26
1995 3.4 DOHC Turbo 5-Speed Z-26
bagged_and_loud
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Re: sunday is the day, hopefully

Post by bagged_and_loud »

Lol, I don't know about all that, but I'm using the best parts I was told. No sense in doing it twice. Lol


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