1996 Mr.Pink

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bonecrrusher
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby bonecrrusher » Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:35 am

Are forged Rods easily available?


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:44 am

Not for the 3500... For the 3400 yes... Overall my engine has held up just fine, I have more issues with the torque converter LSD and it shifting on time...

Supposedly stock 3500 are powdered metal rods, and stock 3400 ones were forged... I'm reading in some places that they are the same dimensions and others say differently... I'll have to investigate that for myself. Scratch that... they are shorter or something... so no option for forged 3500 unless I go custom... I wont do that till I break something.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:53 pm

Sounds pretty forged to me. Stock 3.1 crank to left.

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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Fri Nov 28, 2014 9:09 pm

Internal crank trigger installed.

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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Dec 08, 2014 8:16 am

Slight modification to the factory Malibu transmission bracket and Voila... works... At least the top part appears to work as I've modded it. The lower part that connects to the oil pan I wont know till I fit a pan to this test block and see.

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Slight slotting of the holes on the block side, and had to drill a new one to bolt to the trans housing. I'll be filling in the old hole later.

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Pistons and rods all cleaned up as well and separated...

Doing some research on DIY Dry Film Lubricant and thermal barrier applications because I'm having trouble spending $300 to have that done to my pistons by a local coater..



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Dec 08, 2014 9:21 am

Apparently Techline has stopped selling to the DIY market... Now they only service shops. Kinda BS so I have to have someone do the coatings for me.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby Money pit Beretta » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:05 pm

The counter weights look thicker than the 3.1. Nice hammer by the way, could of used one like that on the Camaro's body. Sure glad I have no use for one now.
Last edited by Money pit Beretta on Tue Dec 09, 2014 6:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby bonecrrusher » Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:43 pm

Jon - have you used that Comp Cams break in spray for valvetrain that they sell in an aerosol?

Keep seeing it on tv used in builds - I know probably just product placement - but when I assembled my LSx, I just used assembly lube and motor oil.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Tue Dec 09, 2014 5:49 am

Saw some spray on assembly lube recently but all I've ever used is the permatex red sticky crap that advance auto used to sell. Not sure if they still have it or not, they said they were discontinuing it last year when Amy bought 2 bottles.

Once again had by a stupid employee.... They still have it in stock.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... Assigned=1



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby whiteretta » Tue Dec 09, 2014 1:58 pm

AutoZone sells Lucas brand assembly lube as well, not the spray either just in a 4 oz. bottle.

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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby woody90gtz » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:58 am

3X00-Modified wrote:Opinions?

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html

I may be going all out. LOL


That's a good idea. I think I'll steal it for my 383 assembly. haha

I saw on horsepower tv where they smoothed oil passageways and beveled hard edges in the block to get better drain back and eliminate stress risers. Probably also a good idea, along with a hot-tank job after that.

Is that internal crank trigger an OEM swap or a custom solution?


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91 "SS" 3400/5spd - EP, FFP, TCE, SPEC, DSS, S&S, OBD1, 13s? GEARHEAD dezign

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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:04 am

It's a TCE part that I bought.

And yeah going over the block and de-burring sounds like a good idea. It's a bit more difficult on the V6 though because you can't get to the cam valley area... It's covered on top and from below so there is one area that can't be coated or de-burred well.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby woody90gtz » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:09 pm

Are these v6's priority main oiling or does the valvetrain get the oil first? It may not be as big of an issue as an old small-block.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:36 pm

It is a priority oil delivery system that oils the crank first but what does that have to do with improving drain back? Isn't that just always a good thing to do? Oil drains back through the valley so that's why I wanted to be able to get to all area's. But it looks like I can remove the casting flash easily from both sides and there wont be any hiding in the cam area... Its just the lack of being able to coat it. Oh well.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:45 am

After going back and forth with Marc last year about DR timing chain and oiling issues we came up with a few solutions to try and ensure that the chain gets sufficient oil.

One is modifying the cam bearing to have two holes in it since the aftermarket SBC bearings you get you don't use the #1 in the pack because its too large, you only use bearings 2-5 all of which only have ONE oiling hole in it. One replacement 3400 bearing that Marc found had the two holes on the front #1 bearing like the factory ones do, AS well as a groove cut in the 3 O'clock position hole to allow for oil to make it out to the thrust plate and timing chain assembly. I will be drilling the second hole in my cam bearing as well as making a slight groove to direct more oil out that way.

Cambearing.jpg


Then next thing is recessing the bearing into the block as it's done by the factory to allow clearance between the bearing and the thrust plate seeing how the holes on that don't always line up very well with the cam/bearing gap.

You can see the recessed bearing compared to the block face here.

20140331_193044.jpg


It's hard to see in this photo, but the gap between the cam and bearing is not centered in the holes for the thrust plate... They drilled those holes I believe on the same diameter as the block cam journal, and not the actual journal size on the cam itself.

New Picture.jpg


You can see how the oil stains are pretty well cut in half in relation to the block cam bore ID and not the bearing ID.

20140331_193044.jpg


You can see in this diagram Marc drew the diameter of the bearing ID in relation to the plate, then a cross section of the sprocket, plate bearing and cam with the bearing flush mount, then recessed and then finally recessed with oiling holes drilled into the cam sprocket.

DR-Oil-Flow.jpg


I will be doing the last cross section because I also drilled 4 holes in the DR upper sprocket.. I mean it can't hurt to direct the oil to the center of the chain rather than the backside only.

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Hopefully all of this will result in a long lasting chain...




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