Camshaft removal, 3.1

[Juro]

Please tell me how to remove the camshaft from the 3.1 engine.

My guess is it pulls out from the front. However, the camshaft itself has two or three
tabs near its front end. These prevent removal.

The 1992 Service Manual says only "remove camshaft."

[3X00-Modified]

It just pulls out the front... as you said... It can not be removed with the lifters in place and IIRC the oil pump drive gear also needs to be removed.

[Juro]

\

all lifters have been removed.

this is how far the Camshaft will come out.

the oil pump is still in place, but how does it come in contact?

[3X00-Modified]

Oil pump drive gear is holding it in place.... The distributor plug on top of the motor by where the transmission attaches.

See how the drive gear is before the last bearing journal...



If the driven gear is still in the block it stops the cam from moving any further.

[88GTRacer]

You need to removed the oil pump gear...

[Juro]

does this round aluminum head get removed? the service manual indicates this is so.

[Asylum]

That appears to be the access plug to the cam gear although they are usually more like a frost plug.

Remove that, get a magnet and remove the cam driven oil pump drive.

You may be able to rotate the cam clockwise a quarter turn to get the oil pump gear to pop up a bit so it's easier to grab.

In all truth, if you are having this lack of info and knowledge of basic engine function, I have to wonder if you know just what the hell you are doing!!

Best of luck!

What the Hell could possibly go wrong?

[Juro]

okay, but how is the access plug removed?

it is just a round plug with no hex head or anything for a socket or tool.

it is aluminum, so it is easy to destroy.

[Asylum]

It's a damn frost plug!

Hit it on one side with a screwdriver and it will pop loose, and you will likely be able save it.

If not,,,Very easy part to find and replace the O-Ring while you are at it! Get the brown on not the black one.

[3X00-Modified]

It's not a frost plug it's like the base of a distributor since that's the hole it's plugging... Put a thin flat head between the plug and block and carefully pry it up.

This is what it looks like when removed.

[ronaconda]

^^^ what Jon said DO NOT HIT IT WITH A HAMMER!!!

[Juro]

Removed both. a sharp-edged chisel and a light tap of a hammer was required
but the plug popped right out.

[Juro]

When the camshaft is removed, this exposes the oil galleries that lead directly to the crankshaft.

Should I prime these oil galleries with oil? But these are vertical galleries, so I think the oil will only
drop and leak past the crankshaft.

Plenty of assembly lube has been applied to all bearings.

[ifixalot]

If you lubed the bearings it should be ok.
But you can prime the system by using a drill to spin
the oil pump before installing the oil pump gear assembly
and/or you can crank the engine with no spark plugs installed
to build some pressure before actually running the engine.

[Rettax3]

It's a damn frost plug!

Hit it on one side with a screwdriver and it will pop loose, and you will likely be able save it.

If not,,,Very easy part to find and replace the O-Ring while you are at it! Get the brown on not the black one.

That appears to be the access plug to the cam gear although they are usually more like a frost plug.

Remove that, get a magnet and remove the cam driven oil pump drive.

You may be able to rotate the cam clockwise a quarter turn to get the oil pump gear to pop up a bit so it's easier to grab.

In all truth, if you are having this lack of info and knowledge of basic engine function, I have to wonder if you know just what the hell you are doing!!

Best of luck!

What the Hell could possibly go wrong?

???
Okay...
No, you do not need to prime the galleries. As stated, use a good quality assembly lube, like Lubriplate or a Molybdenum-based assembly lube (I like Crane Cams' Molly lube -nice density, and smooth as butter). Coat EVERYTHING on that cam. Be careful when installing it not to hurt the bearings that are still inside the engine -use three long bolts threaded into the front of the cam where the sprocket attached to give yourself more leverage. Once you have the block together, put oil in the engine (and a filter too, obviously) and use a power-drill with a socket down the same hole that the drive-gear came out of to reach the oil-pump driveshaft (hexagonal shaft), run it clockwise slowly until it loads-up (this will be the oil-pump taking in oil and pressurizing the galleries, and if you are running the drill too fast you could hurt it if it is a cheaper drill). Some people prime the oil-pump with assembly-lube (or petroleum jelly works in a pinch) if that is being removed or replaced. When you replace that drive-gear assembly, absolutely replace the O-ring on it, or you WILL have an oil-leak from it! I have seen two or three 60-degree engines in the last two weeks leaking from that spot -it is a common leak-point on these engines as the O-ring ages and hardens or shrinks.
Take your time, keep asking questions, you are doing fine. Remember to have fun too -that is important!