U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Want some new struts? What brand springs to buy? How much camber to run? What brake pads? What's the best setup for your situation....
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Money pit Beretta
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Not understanding what you are saying. There is an upgraded bolt that GM gave newer cars that will work with the Beretta? I would like that if it for sure fits right.


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1988GTU
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by 1988GTU »

Money pit Beretta wrote:Not understanding what you are saying. There is an upgraded bolt that GM gave newer cars that will work with the Beretta? I would like that if it for sure fits right.
Not saying that. Only relating newer gm vehicle with vertical rear lca not showing full thread bolts, based on my digging.


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Thank you for digging and your support on this.

Thanks to 3X00 also.

Off to buy the bolts now.

Edit:Bought.


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

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Tie rod arm bushings are on and there are no more bushing noises. Steering is tighter too. The old bushings were in fact sheared off at the front and had a strange glaze on the main part. That was not as bad as I thought it would be, still a bit of a pain.
My 3400 showed up today and will be going on this weekend. Hope that cures the hot sputter start once and for all.


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1988GTU
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by 1988GTU »

3400 swap? What showed up?


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1988GTU
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

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Money pit Beretta wrote:Tie rod arm bushings are on and there are no more bushing noises. Steering is tighter too. The old bushings were in fact sheared off at the front and had a strange glaze on the main part. That was not as bad as I thought it would be, still a bit of a pain.
Your exhaust heat treated those bushings. :D


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Money pit Beretta
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

That and years of rubbing with no lube. Greased the crap out of the new ones.

Damn sputter start is still there, but I have a 3400 starter now. Going to try and clean the front crank sensor, that area is covered with oil.


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1988GTU
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by 1988GTU »

Money pit Beretta wrote:That and years of rubbing with no lube. Greased the crap out of the new ones.

Damn sputter start is still there, but I have a 3400 starter now. Going to try and clean the front crank sensor, that area is covered with oil.
fpr hold a vacuum?


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Image

As you can see the front of the bushings are gone.


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Money pit Beretta
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

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I'll check the FPR. It starts just fine when cold(sitting over night).


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Didn't check it, but did check to see if it would do a prime charge after sitting for just a few minutes. It did, key on and waited for the pump to stop. Even with that there was a sputter start.


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Money pit Beretta
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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Have the bolts, may get them on this weekend. Also may have time to check the FPR.


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by 1988GTU »

them bushing were due for new. good ya did them!


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Didn't think it was that bad and felt the same after the replacement. Did hit a huge curb with the rear passenger tire though. There was only a little slack, nothing like the old worn out steering gear boxes of my first cars. LOL with all the mods as of late there has been cars following me that almost hit curbs trying to match this cars speed in turns. Do like to try and hit the apex correct, most other drivers don't know what that is.


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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing

Post by Money pit Beretta »

The new bolts are in. Front one was in fact rusted and all the threads were gone(less the ones in the nut). Took the wheel off and unhooked the spindle from the strut, which just made the bolt get stuck. With everything back on and the car sitting on half its weight the bolt came out. The rear was in great shape, but was replaced anyway. Damn bushing got out of line and it took a long time to get the bolt back in.
All and all it took a huge amount of time to do all this so no check of the FPR.


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