Beretta.net

Hey Gang

I've got a 92 3.1 GT I picked up for $300 a few weeks ago. Needed a CPS which I picked up and installed. Went to test drive it as I did a complete brake job on it and because it was dark out when I was driving it up and down the yard I didn't notice it until the following day but I seem to have an oil leak coming from the middle of the car right around where the CPS would be. I checked the oil and noticed I lost about a litre of oil and when I took a drive down the street in my other vehicle I actually noticed a trail of oil down the road where I had driven it the night before as well. I'm sure I torqued it down enough but maybe I'm wrong. Anybody have any ideas why it would be doing something like this? I'm almost thru my brake issues and wanna get this sorted out so the wife has a safe vehicle she can drive for the winter as our 95 Base 3100 is slowly getting ready to be laid to rest as there's a problem there and that's for another post. It doesn't seem to lose any oil just sitting there but after I ran it and took it for a rip around the block is when the issue arose. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Check your Oil Pressure Sending Unit on the back side of the engine block, it's more than likely the cause of a leak like that. A CPS shouldn't leak oil like that even if the O ring was completely missing, so I HIGHLY doubt it's leaking around that.

The oil pressure sender does tend to leak. When it goes bad it also can leak into where the pig tail plugs in(mine did).
It is near the starter.

yeah...thats what it was.....i had it running yesterday and checked where the oil puddle was and it was directly under the sender....off to the parts store today to pick up a new sender and get that installed and then we should be good to go with the new ride....at least until I can track down another master cylinder as I think I have a small leak in it somewhere.....

Don't forget the PTFE tape on the threads.

Wheel cylinder leak?

Money pit Beretta wrote:Don't forget the PTFE tape on the threads.

The threads on the OPSU are tapered so you really don't need any sort of tape or sealant on them. Usually though (most brands, not all), when you buy a new one they do have a thin coat of sealer on the threads already.

Oh yeah, man it's been along time.

not sure if its a wheel cylinder just yet....replaced steel lines and everything in the back....let it sit for a few days...gonna check for leaks now....did notice it was a little damp where the MC mounts to the booster....that and the brakes lock up and don't pulse like an ABS system should....hopefully I can track an MC down in decent shape at the wrecker.....

Rock Auto sells them for our cars.

well I let it sit for a couple days and checked the back again and there was a puddle of brake fluid in the wheel and a drip forming at the bottom of the backing plate so i guess it's a wheel cylinder....waiting on my special lug key to come in and then i'm gonna pull the wheels and put new cylinders in....figure i've gone this far with new brake stuff that I may as well go for the gold....hopefully that will solve the problem and I'll get some pedal back....if that doesn't work then its off for a MC....

Sure wish I could feel the pedal in a Beretta with low miles. I have no idea what's normal for them. When you get it all sealed up remember to bleed like you are rotating tires. You know,the good old "X" and front to back.

thought bleeding process was Modulator, pass rear, drivers rear, pass front, drivers front? Would I need to bleed the fronts if I haven't disconnected anything regarding the front lines? What do you mean by 'You the good ol 'X' and front to back?

I think he meant back to front, when you're rotating tires you are switching them anyway, so it can be confusing when it comes to bleeding brakes.

You've got the right idea.

Spliting hairs there......it's the samething.