Page 17 of 21
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 12:40 pm
by acemccool
Where I live, we have more strict rules. Guaranteed if I did this to a Beretta then was in an accident they would void insurance due to its extensive modification. We have to take the car to an inspection to make sure its road worthy then bring the report to insurance and they either issue a new vin # or re-apply the current one with a modified description.
Not too expensive to do, probably $200 for inspection and $30 for the modified car vin application. Then it I would get it insured as a daily driver which shouldn't be much more than what you would typically pay. I have been thinking of doing something similar to what your doing.
My current problem is I don't know what kind of frame modification is considered safe and acceptable.
Wanted to basically take a early 90's S10 frame, cut the front clip out and rear end section of frame and fabricate the mid section to connect the two so the frame runs along the main frame structure like yours does beside the doors. Then notch out the beretta sheet metal to slip on the frame and weld it to the frame.
Not interested in doing body mounts and not just plunking the body on an existing frame. I want it to be proper ride height.
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:53 pm
by Alxsmt
Rettax3 wrote:Alxsmt wrote:its 1/8" (.120) 2x4.
I have no idea how I will insure it, I havnt gotten that far yet, Ill figure it out when its running! End of the day its "just a beretta"..
I insure my old Plymouth through a company in Florida that has options for limited or unlimited mileage, selectable deductibles, and an 'agreed upon' value. They have a good reputation for backing their policy, or at least they did... Your Beretta is probably old enough, a company like that might actually cover it...
IIRC, they were willing to cover my GTU a few years ago, because it was over 25 years old and maybe because it is a special edition.
The only special requirement was that you had to have a 'daily driver' registered and insured elsewhere. Hmm, I've got to get a policy on my less-old Plymouth too, now that I think about it...
oh nice. I do know mine qualifies for "classic" plates! I will probably have the car appraised when its done at least. I know an appraiser who is a diehard automotive enthusiast.
acemccool wrote:Where I live, we have more strict rules. Guaranteed if I did this to a Beretta then was in an accident they would void insurance due to its extensive modification. We have to take the car to an inspection to make sure its road worthy then bring the report to insurance and they either issue a new vin # or re-apply the current one with a modified description.
Not too expensive to do, probably $200 for inspection and $30 for the modified car vin application. Then it I would get it insured as a daily driver which shouldn't be much more than what you would typically pay. I have been thinking of doing something similar to what your doing.
My current problem is I don't know what kind of frame modification is considered safe and acceptable.
Wanted to basically take a early 90's S10 frame, cut the front clip out and rear end section of frame and fabricate the mid section to connect the two so the frame runs along the main frame structure like yours does beside the doors. Then notch out the beretta sheet metal to slip on the frame and weld it to the frame.
Not interested in doing body mounts and not just plunking the body on an existing frame. I want it to be proper ride height.
Im not positive how normal insurance would look at my car. I dont even have emissions testing where I live, but they do a few miles from me haha.
I dont think there really is a "safe" way to do it, you change all the crush zones and no real way of knowing whats going to happen in a crash. But that being said, it cant be any more unsafe that a classic car. I think you would have better luck using the whole S10 frame and making it shorter/longer to match the wheel base, then just "sink it in" the car and weld it together. Always the bravada or astro too.. an issue with using a random frame is that its not built for what you want, by the time your done you may as well build one! Just my opinion, regardless it would be pretty cool to see it done with an S10 frame.
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:53 pm
by Alxsmt
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 7:49 am
by bonecrrusher
Is the angle iron taking up the gap between the outer perimeter frame rail of the Beretta body- and the chassis frame rail that you are adding?
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 3:19 pm
by Alxsmt
Yeah, the beretta has a slight angle to it and the angle iron is just enough of a spacer to make my frame perfectly at 90*. I think it will be easier to build the frame, and everything coming off of it if all my cuts are simple.
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 11:09 pm
by Alxsmt
made some progress.
The design. Through frame driveshaft loop. Decided it has to be a bolt in. Mandrel bent 1x2 .120 wall. I found some well on nuts that have an OD of 3/4" (on order) and take a 1/2" bolt. I gave up on finding metric. I will drill 4 1" holes, weld 1" .120 wall DOM tube inside and then weld the nuts in on top. Tube will prevent the frame from crushing when you tighten it down.
I this is in the process of making it fit, Its currently welded. Even clamped down to 2x4 steel it warped a tad, not terrible but I need to straighten it somehow, about 1/8" off. I have the lower bolt on hoop cut, just got burnt out and called it a night. The lower loop section is the same height as the rest of the frame rails, that way It wont screw up my flat floor plans!
also got that cut out so I can weld in my new piece (at the red line, just no picture of it done).
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 10:43 am
by Alxsmt
Sadly couldnt grind this one smooth.. The shape on the mandrel bent loop isnt quite flat so it doesnt match up perfectly. Oh well.
All welded up and straight. Had to straighten everything to make it fit together perfectly. I hate how metal moves when you weld it regardless of how secure it is!
Measured out ready to drill.
Perfect fit!
The basic Idea. Pipe is just tossed in, needs prep and welded. I did screw up on the bolt in part, I should have used 3/4" .120 wall and not the same 1"... Ill have to sleeve it with some 3/4 so its aligned when its bolted in and not moving around. no biggie I guess but wtf lol, not sure how I missed that..
ill probably weld the pipe in when I get the weld in nuts this next week. But thats where it stands. Probably have 30 or so hours into that driveshaft loop so far..
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 1:38 am
by woody90gtz
That's a lot of time, but it looks really good. I saw you post the 1" .120 wall and 1/2" bolts and I wondered what I was missing...
Also...my work bench ends up looking the same during a project. haha
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 10:38 pm
by Alxsmt
Thanks! its too much time.. but hey. do it once right?
well the weld in nuts Im using will slide into the pipe if that makes sense. Ill get some pictures of it. But yeah it doesnt work the same for the bolt in part sadly lol. oh well.
haha, yeah.. its terrible lol, but what do you do? clean it or keep working? I get to rearrange my whole garage in a week or so, Ill clean it then
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:17 pm
by Alxsmt
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:25 pm
by Alxsmt
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:34 pm
by Alxsmt
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:36 pm
by Alxsmt
and that is that! next step is to build rear subframe mounts and gusset the frame some more then the back is literally rolling.
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 7:24 am
by woody90gtz
Saweeeeet. That laser level does an amazing job figuring out your sheet metal cuts. Very cool with the fitment of the rail going through the trunk panel.
Re: LS1/t56 swap
Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 12:22 am
by Alxsmt
Thanks! Yeah that laser is a great tool for so many things. I dont know how I would have made those cuts without it honestly