3.1L MPFI LG5
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SuzukiGhostRider
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3.1L MPFI LG5
Transferring this over here since it appears Bstuff is fixing to go down for the count again. I made every other reply BOLD so it's easier to differentiate between posts.
SuzukiGhostRider
Ok, so I'm preparing to start my turbo upgrade. I figure the engine should be ready for it already as far as durability seeing as it's a fresh rebuild with just over 2000 miles on it. Also, it's already 1 of 2000 as only 2000 McLaren TGP's were made in '89 and '90 and this is the engine from one of the '90 models. I'm going to need alot of assistance here as I've NEVER done a turbo build from the ground up. I've got an idea what I need, and what will have to be customized. I just need input from the knowledgeable people, and ideas. Now the '90 TGP came with the T25 Garret turbo capable of 5-15 PSI. It's too small. I want something bigger and more powerful. Also, can I use my ECM or do I need to upgrade to a '90 TGP ECM and get a custom chip burnt to match my new turbo? The following is what I know I need.
1. Turbo (Obviously,lol)
2. Downpipe
3. Crossover Pipe
4. Intercooler
5. Heat Wrap
6. ECM chip
7. Turbo Cam (Or can I use my current cam?)
8. MBC or EBC
9. BOV
Now, should I upgrade the cam? Also, pull the heads and get them ported , polished, and a new valve job done with stronger springs upgraded rockers? What about exhaust upgades , as far as manifolds,headers, etc.? Thanks.
GTZfan
What you need to do for sure is decreasing the compression, so you need different pistons and/or rods. A turbo set up only needs about 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. I only know that in theoretical way, never done that.
I didn't know that you want to turbo your 3.1... JUST AWESOME!
Good luck!
heavywoody
Which car is this going into?
The reason I ask is because you won't be able to use the TGP crossover in an 87-91 L-body (or a 92-96 L-body that had the single bracket welded in for a 5spd swap). You'll have to either modify the TGP one, or build one from scratch.
If the turbo you are going to upgrade to doesn't have an internal wastegate (instead of using the T25), you'll need to get an external wastegate and figure out how you're going to plum that into the system.
You'll need larger injectors, a higher flowing fuel pump, stronger vacuum lines (for BOV, wastegate, and other vacuum sources), gaskets, T-bolt clamps, intercooler piping, etc...
There are a lot of parts involved with a turbo setup, and it should be studied greatly before you even start buying parts.
A good read is a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It's available on Amazon for around $25 new.
You'll be able to use the stock cam, but for the best potential, an aftermarket cam should be used that is specifically designed for use on a boosted engine.
You should be able to use your ECM, but you will need to have the TGP code burned onto your chip. You'll also need to be able to tune the car, as you won't be able to run any real amounts of boost without a good tune.
Kurt
Geoff beat me to the punch, about the only thing I can add some info to is head work questions.
It would be a good idea to pull the heads and have a 3 angle valve job done, along with new stem seals and stronger valve srpings. As far as porting, this is all a question of how much you air you're looking to move. Unless you're planning on running forged pistons I probably wouldn't do anything more than clean casting flaws and polish the combustion chambers. The heads will flow well enough to make 250hp without much port work, and that's definitely pushing beyond the realm of the stock internals.
Also, I'd stick with the stock T25 at first, it will push well over 230hp on these engines and not have a hint of turbo lag thanks to its small size. Plus that's just another good chunk of change to save a put towards things you need to get the set-up going.
One last thing, I didn't see any mention of your MAP sensor plans. You'll have to grab a 2 or 3 bar map to read boost.
I haven't looked into it much lately but if JeffM is still offering his TopGun 160 chip for the TGPs look into tracking down the code for it, even if it costs a lot. He was making hella power out of mildly upgraded TGPs.
Z26-T
Okay, if you're asking these questions you obviously don't know much about boost, which is fine :). You will not want to go above 10 psi before you build the engine for boost. You can stick with stock comp. as long as you have a way to adjust for the boost. Firstly you will need a higher flow pump before you do anything. Some suggest 190 lph, other 255 lph. I bought 255 lph because any excess fuel will be returned to the tank. If you want to use bigger injectors, you need to put a chip in your 1990, or convert it to obd2 and get a tuner. I suggest just getting a chip after you decide how much boost you want to run and what exactly you want to accomplish. The stock cam will work, if you want a boost roller cam (i'm not sure if the 3.1 is roller or not) you will have to have a custom grind done, or talk to ben (sappy) on 60degreev6.com. For heads, I would just get some nice 3400 or 2000+ 3100 heads with the big port intake manifolds. For boosted applications the 3400 heads flow the best after they've been ported. If you want to stick with stock heads for price reasons, you'll have to get stiffer springs put on. LS6 springs work well for this, and is what most people use, unless you want to use comp. cam valve springs, which is a lil excessive for a stock cam. So if you don't want to build an engine, get ls1 valve seats and ls6 springs (they will be yellow). You can use the 3.1 valve seals with this set up. Plumbing wise, cross-over, turbo down pipe, that's the easiest part if you ask me. As stated above, you can use the mclareen set-up, turbo, down pipe, I'm pretty sure you can use the majority of that in your car, will probably have to modify the down pipe though. Finding one will be the hard part. Or if you want to go custom, tap off your exhaust manifold down pipe, cut a hole in your cross over and feed it to the turbo (of course you will want to put forth more effort than just cutting a hole, you'll probably want to have pipes custom bent to where you want them). Then if you want to use a turbo with an external wastegate, you'll have to cut another hole in the turbo exhaust housing feed, put the wastegate there and tap it into the turbo exhaust down pipe, or go the illegal way (in some state) and have it waste straight to the ground.
A quick list of what you will need, higher flow pump (190-255 lph), injectors (if you use bigger injectors you'll need a chip), turbo exhaust work, turbo, external waste gate (if you go that route), and intake pipes, to the turbo (unless you just place a cone on the turbo) and intake pipes from the turbo. Some people use RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulators) others use FMU (fuel management units). FMUs are none adjustable, RRFPRs are. Personally I would just find one of those mclareen grand prix and take everything. There is a lot of headache involved in going FI...
Loner
Maybe later if Im not to lazy and out of it Ill finish reading and help answer question/fix the ones that get misthought
IsaacHayes
Stock 3.1mpfi still right?
Don't worry about compression. Stock 3.1mpfi is same as TGP it's like 8.9:1 or something not an issue.
Don't need to go to OBDII, since you have OBDI and can just put a TGP chip in, 2bar MAP, and be good to go there. High flow pump might be needed and you will need to use the same rated injectors as the TGP used, or use larger and have the code of the TGP modified and run that.
Stock cam is fine for boost works very well. Depends how much money you want to spend, if you want to go Gen3 top end (hybrid) but it sounds like you just want to throw on some boost and run the car without getting any more complicated than boost is. Putting the stock TGP setup is going to be pretty easy but if you start changing things you'll need to tune to refine the TGP code to make it run optimally.
Stiffer springs would be an idea to prevent valve float but not sure which ones work on gen2 3.1mpfi heads directly.
Cross over will need to be modded to clear the L body, not sure if downpipe is an issue but you can always make a new one. Using most of the TGP setup will be the easiest. Then later you can change things such as turbo, injector sizes, top end, etc to make more power. Then you gotta worry about your stock trans or do a 5spd swap...
SuzukiGhostRider
Woody, car is my '88 GT with the '90 McLaren 3.1L MPFI also known as the LG5.
Ok, great information guys. Yes, Z-26T, I know very little about actually bolting a turbo system in place but have plenty of mechanical knowledge, so with a little help from you guys, I think I'll be ok. I should have clarified a few things, sorry guys.
Motor = '90 model Gen II 3.1L MPFI straight out of a '90 model TGP. So the compression should be 8.9:1 already. This motor is freshly rebuilt with just over 2k on it. Very tight, very responsive. Probably bored a bit to clean up the cylinders for the rebuild, so I'm sure slightly bigger pistons as well.
Heads = Just gone through, but I agree and it's good advice , I will pull them and get the 3 angle valve job done and get the casting burs,etc. removed ,polish the combustion chambers and get the ls1 valve seats and was already planning on the ls6 springs. I'm going to put the good Felpro gaskets back in too, if they weren't already there.
I knew I would have to mod the cross over pipe, my bad for not mentioning that. I already have a line on a complete '90 model TGP (whole car) with a blown head gasket. He's selling it CHEAP and the turbo was just rebuilt. Good advice to go with the T25 for now , as it DOES have about zero turbo lag. I think the suggestions to just get "her going right first" are pretty straight shooting. Agreed. For the high flow , I will go the Walbro 255 lb/h model. The injectors I was thinking I could pull from the TGP and check for worthiness and use for now. I didn't know to get the 2 or 3 Bar MAP sensor, so thank you. The chip I think I can get Nbodyracer on the Q4Forums to burn for me. Glad I can use my ECM. I'm planning building for bigger boost and power later down the road, but for now, just want a good working boost setup in there. I'm thinking I should see a gain of what? 50-60 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI?
I appreciate all the info , and keep advice and suggestions coming please. This is EXACTLY the type of info I need from you knowledgeable sorts.
QUOTEI'm thinking I should see a gain of what? 50-60 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI?
From the stock 2.8 with bolt ons to the TGP set up? Try closer to a 100whp increase. You'll seriously be doubling your output.
And be ready to break trannys.
[/quote]
SuzukiGhostRider
QUOTE QUOTEI'm thinking I should see a gain of what? 50-60 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI?
From the stock 2.8 with bolt ons to the TGP set up? Try closer to a 100whp increase. You'll seriously be doubling your output.
And be ready to break trannys.
IT'S A 3.1l MPFI LG5 '90 McLAREN ENGINE DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!! Come on people, I've said it 100 times! I still luv ya Kurt. :P
Seriously though?! Holy Shat!! 100 WHP from a little 10 psi turbo,some bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump?! Hell yea!!! Nice!! I had heard you can pretty much count on 10 hp per psi of boost, but I figured that would be too optimistic to hope for. :D Oh, forgot to mention above, but yea, a 5 speed swap is DEF going to happen with this car. I figure this auto won't last long once boosted.
On a side note, this car does have some slight mods already:
FFD UDP, WAI, Solid mounts (not all), some others I'm probably forgetting. Should I upgrade the half shafts after boosting before driving you think? I'm guessing the current HP to be around 170-180 due to the rebuild. I know the TGP's were rated at 205 at 5200 rpm but they already had the turbo on them. So you think I'll be running what , around 250 whp or better after turbo upgrade? Nice if so!
Z26-T
Thanks to Isaac he turned on a light that should have already been turned on. With your heads i'm not sure how to put the LS6 springs on them, mostly because i don't know the difference in heads from 3.1 to the 3100. With the 3100/3400 heads you need the ls1 seats, ls6 springs, and 3.1 valve seals... and can't remember what retainers. But i'm not sure on the 2.8 or 3.1 heads, i'm sorry. Just go stiffer :). And best of luck with the build, you seem to already be at a good start :D (until loner comes on and pwns everything that we said)
SuzukiGhostRider
QUOTE...... And best of luck with the build, you seem to already be at a good start :D (until loner comes on and pwns everything that we said)
Thanks and ROFL at the Loner remark.
Kurt
Without the snail on it that engine is only producing slightly more than a stock 3.1, and that's me being optimistic. These engines just don't respond well to N/A mods without opening up the intake manifolds, and running a more aggressive cam.
SuzukiGhostRider
Ok, so I'm preparing to start my turbo upgrade. I figure the engine should be ready for it already as far as durability seeing as it's a fresh rebuild with just over 2000 miles on it. Also, it's already 1 of 2000 as only 2000 McLaren TGP's were made in '89 and '90 and this is the engine from one of the '90 models. I'm going to need alot of assistance here as I've NEVER done a turbo build from the ground up. I've got an idea what I need, and what will have to be customized. I just need input from the knowledgeable people, and ideas. Now the '90 TGP came with the T25 Garret turbo capable of 5-15 PSI. It's too small. I want something bigger and more powerful. Also, can I use my ECM or do I need to upgrade to a '90 TGP ECM and get a custom chip burnt to match my new turbo? The following is what I know I need.
1. Turbo (Obviously,lol)
2. Downpipe
3. Crossover Pipe
4. Intercooler
5. Heat Wrap
6. ECM chip
7. Turbo Cam (Or can I use my current cam?)
8. MBC or EBC
9. BOV
Now, should I upgrade the cam? Also, pull the heads and get them ported , polished, and a new valve job done with stronger springs upgraded rockers? What about exhaust upgades , as far as manifolds,headers, etc.? Thanks.
GTZfan
What you need to do for sure is decreasing the compression, so you need different pistons and/or rods. A turbo set up only needs about 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. I only know that in theoretical way, never done that.
I didn't know that you want to turbo your 3.1... JUST AWESOME!
Good luck!
heavywoody
Which car is this going into?
The reason I ask is because you won't be able to use the TGP crossover in an 87-91 L-body (or a 92-96 L-body that had the single bracket welded in for a 5spd swap). You'll have to either modify the TGP one, or build one from scratch.
If the turbo you are going to upgrade to doesn't have an internal wastegate (instead of using the T25), you'll need to get an external wastegate and figure out how you're going to plum that into the system.
You'll need larger injectors, a higher flowing fuel pump, stronger vacuum lines (for BOV, wastegate, and other vacuum sources), gaskets, T-bolt clamps, intercooler piping, etc...
There are a lot of parts involved with a turbo setup, and it should be studied greatly before you even start buying parts.
A good read is a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It's available on Amazon for around $25 new.
You'll be able to use the stock cam, but for the best potential, an aftermarket cam should be used that is specifically designed for use on a boosted engine.
You should be able to use your ECM, but you will need to have the TGP code burned onto your chip. You'll also need to be able to tune the car, as you won't be able to run any real amounts of boost without a good tune.
Kurt
Geoff beat me to the punch, about the only thing I can add some info to is head work questions.
It would be a good idea to pull the heads and have a 3 angle valve job done, along with new stem seals and stronger valve srpings. As far as porting, this is all a question of how much you air you're looking to move. Unless you're planning on running forged pistons I probably wouldn't do anything more than clean casting flaws and polish the combustion chambers. The heads will flow well enough to make 250hp without much port work, and that's definitely pushing beyond the realm of the stock internals.
Also, I'd stick with the stock T25 at first, it will push well over 230hp on these engines and not have a hint of turbo lag thanks to its small size. Plus that's just another good chunk of change to save a put towards things you need to get the set-up going.
One last thing, I didn't see any mention of your MAP sensor plans. You'll have to grab a 2 or 3 bar map to read boost.
I haven't looked into it much lately but if JeffM is still offering his TopGun 160 chip for the TGPs look into tracking down the code for it, even if it costs a lot. He was making hella power out of mildly upgraded TGPs.
Z26-T
Okay, if you're asking these questions you obviously don't know much about boost, which is fine :). You will not want to go above 10 psi before you build the engine for boost. You can stick with stock comp. as long as you have a way to adjust for the boost. Firstly you will need a higher flow pump before you do anything. Some suggest 190 lph, other 255 lph. I bought 255 lph because any excess fuel will be returned to the tank. If you want to use bigger injectors, you need to put a chip in your 1990, or convert it to obd2 and get a tuner. I suggest just getting a chip after you decide how much boost you want to run and what exactly you want to accomplish. The stock cam will work, if you want a boost roller cam (i'm not sure if the 3.1 is roller or not) you will have to have a custom grind done, or talk to ben (sappy) on 60degreev6.com. For heads, I would just get some nice 3400 or 2000+ 3100 heads with the big port intake manifolds. For boosted applications the 3400 heads flow the best after they've been ported. If you want to stick with stock heads for price reasons, you'll have to get stiffer springs put on. LS6 springs work well for this, and is what most people use, unless you want to use comp. cam valve springs, which is a lil excessive for a stock cam. So if you don't want to build an engine, get ls1 valve seats and ls6 springs (they will be yellow). You can use the 3.1 valve seals with this set up. Plumbing wise, cross-over, turbo down pipe, that's the easiest part if you ask me. As stated above, you can use the mclareen set-up, turbo, down pipe, I'm pretty sure you can use the majority of that in your car, will probably have to modify the down pipe though. Finding one will be the hard part. Or if you want to go custom, tap off your exhaust manifold down pipe, cut a hole in your cross over and feed it to the turbo (of course you will want to put forth more effort than just cutting a hole, you'll probably want to have pipes custom bent to where you want them). Then if you want to use a turbo with an external wastegate, you'll have to cut another hole in the turbo exhaust housing feed, put the wastegate there and tap it into the turbo exhaust down pipe, or go the illegal way (in some state) and have it waste straight to the ground.
A quick list of what you will need, higher flow pump (190-255 lph), injectors (if you use bigger injectors you'll need a chip), turbo exhaust work, turbo, external waste gate (if you go that route), and intake pipes, to the turbo (unless you just place a cone on the turbo) and intake pipes from the turbo. Some people use RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulators) others use FMU (fuel management units). FMUs are none adjustable, RRFPRs are. Personally I would just find one of those mclareen grand prix and take everything. There is a lot of headache involved in going FI...
Loner
Maybe later if Im not to lazy and out of it Ill finish reading and help answer question/fix the ones that get misthought
IsaacHayes
Stock 3.1mpfi still right?
Don't worry about compression. Stock 3.1mpfi is same as TGP it's like 8.9:1 or something not an issue.
Don't need to go to OBDII, since you have OBDI and can just put a TGP chip in, 2bar MAP, and be good to go there. High flow pump might be needed and you will need to use the same rated injectors as the TGP used, or use larger and have the code of the TGP modified and run that.
Stock cam is fine for boost works very well. Depends how much money you want to spend, if you want to go Gen3 top end (hybrid) but it sounds like you just want to throw on some boost and run the car without getting any more complicated than boost is. Putting the stock TGP setup is going to be pretty easy but if you start changing things you'll need to tune to refine the TGP code to make it run optimally.
Stiffer springs would be an idea to prevent valve float but not sure which ones work on gen2 3.1mpfi heads directly.
Cross over will need to be modded to clear the L body, not sure if downpipe is an issue but you can always make a new one. Using most of the TGP setup will be the easiest. Then later you can change things such as turbo, injector sizes, top end, etc to make more power. Then you gotta worry about your stock trans or do a 5spd swap...
SuzukiGhostRider
Woody, car is my '88 GT with the '90 McLaren 3.1L MPFI also known as the LG5.
Ok, great information guys. Yes, Z-26T, I know very little about actually bolting a turbo system in place but have plenty of mechanical knowledge, so with a little help from you guys, I think I'll be ok. I should have clarified a few things, sorry guys.
Motor = '90 model Gen II 3.1L MPFI straight out of a '90 model TGP. So the compression should be 8.9:1 already. This motor is freshly rebuilt with just over 2k on it. Very tight, very responsive. Probably bored a bit to clean up the cylinders for the rebuild, so I'm sure slightly bigger pistons as well.
Heads = Just gone through, but I agree and it's good advice , I will pull them and get the 3 angle valve job done and get the casting burs,etc. removed ,polish the combustion chambers and get the ls1 valve seats and was already planning on the ls6 springs. I'm going to put the good Felpro gaskets back in too, if they weren't already there.
I knew I would have to mod the cross over pipe, my bad for not mentioning that. I already have a line on a complete '90 model TGP (whole car) with a blown head gasket. He's selling it CHEAP and the turbo was just rebuilt. Good advice to go with the T25 for now , as it DOES have about zero turbo lag. I think the suggestions to just get "her going right first" are pretty straight shooting. Agreed. For the high flow , I will go the Walbro 255 lb/h model. The injectors I was thinking I could pull from the TGP and check for worthiness and use for now. I didn't know to get the 2 or 3 Bar MAP sensor, so thank you. The chip I think I can get Nbodyracer on the Q4Forums to burn for me. Glad I can use my ECM. I'm planning building for bigger boost and power later down the road, but for now, just want a good working boost setup in there. I'm thinking I should see a gain of what? 50-60 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI?
I appreciate all the info , and keep advice and suggestions coming please. This is EXACTLY the type of info I need from you knowledgeable sorts.
QUOTEI'm thinking I should see a gain of what? 50-60 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI?
From the stock 2.8 with bolt ons to the TGP set up? Try closer to a 100whp increase. You'll seriously be doubling your output.
And be ready to break trannys.
[/quote]
SuzukiGhostRider
QUOTE QUOTEI'm thinking I should see a gain of what? 50-60 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI?
From the stock 2.8 with bolt ons to the TGP set up? Try closer to a 100whp increase. You'll seriously be doubling your output.
And be ready to break trannys.
IT'S A 3.1l MPFI LG5 '90 McLAREN ENGINE DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!! Come on people, I've said it 100 times! I still luv ya Kurt. :P
Seriously though?! Holy Shat!! 100 WHP from a little 10 psi turbo,some bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump?! Hell yea!!! Nice!! I had heard you can pretty much count on 10 hp per psi of boost, but I figured that would be too optimistic to hope for. :D Oh, forgot to mention above, but yea, a 5 speed swap is DEF going to happen with this car. I figure this auto won't last long once boosted.
On a side note, this car does have some slight mods already:
FFD UDP, WAI, Solid mounts (not all), some others I'm probably forgetting. Should I upgrade the half shafts after boosting before driving you think? I'm guessing the current HP to be around 170-180 due to the rebuild. I know the TGP's were rated at 205 at 5200 rpm but they already had the turbo on them. So you think I'll be running what , around 250 whp or better after turbo upgrade? Nice if so!
Z26-T
Thanks to Isaac he turned on a light that should have already been turned on. With your heads i'm not sure how to put the LS6 springs on them, mostly because i don't know the difference in heads from 3.1 to the 3100. With the 3100/3400 heads you need the ls1 seats, ls6 springs, and 3.1 valve seals... and can't remember what retainers. But i'm not sure on the 2.8 or 3.1 heads, i'm sorry. Just go stiffer :). And best of luck with the build, you seem to already be at a good start :D (until loner comes on and pwns everything that we said)
SuzukiGhostRider
QUOTE...... And best of luck with the build, you seem to already be at a good start :D (until loner comes on and pwns everything that we said)
Thanks and ROFL at the Loner remark.
Kurt
Without the snail on it that engine is only producing slightly more than a stock 3.1, and that's me being optimistic. These engines just don't respond well to N/A mods without opening up the intake manifolds, and running a more aggressive cam.
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SuzukiGhostRider
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- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:07 am
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3.1L MPFI LG5
Not sure why it posted twice but THIS is the right one. Can a mod delete the other please? Thx.
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wicked-irocz
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- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2003 11:21 pm
- Location: South Central MN
3.1L MPFI LG5
honestly, its not worth pulling the heads.
94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler
Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler
Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
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SuzukiGhostRider
- Registered User
- Posts: 2464
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:07 am
- Location: Milan NM
- Contact:
3.1L MPFI LG5
The only thing I would do to the heads is upgrade the springs, seals, and maybe a valve job. Porting can help, but you can do just as much by cranking up the boost a little more.
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Z26-T
- Registered User
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:25 am
- Location: South Jordan Utah
- Contact:
3.1L MPFI LG5
I'm not sure exactly what they did differently on the LG5 engine, but if they didn't change the valve springs I would at least do that... Don't have to pull the heads, just pressurize the cylinder. Would be kinda bad to break a spring, suck a valve and send all the debris through the turbo... But that's just me thinking of worst case scenarios . And the question with the half shafts, wait until you decide if you stick with the trans in it, or do a getrag swap in it. If that's the case, upgrade the shafts for that if you have a problem with breaking them.
95' Z26 Beretta- 3400, 282, exhaust. Lots of upgrades still in boxes...
79' Z28 Camaro- Not street legal- 12-1 compression, etc.
S. Comp. Dragster- DEI 350, 600 hp @ 5600, I take it to 7400.
79' Z28 Camaro- Not street legal- 12-1 compression, etc.
S. Comp. Dragster- DEI 350, 600 hp @ 5600, I take it to 7400.
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SuzukiGhostRider
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3.1L MPFI LG5
Good advice on both counts. I'm actually wondering now if I NEED to worry about the springs or valve job. The heads on the car are '90 TGP heads. I should pull the valve cover and snap a pic so you guys can let me know if they're stocker 3.1L or TGP.
3.1L MPFI LG5
There's no real difference from tgp heads and lho heads. Even the compression is the same. Compare this info to the tgp info:
The one thing that most TGP owners do to there heads is upgrade the valve springs. Reason is, they float at higher rpm's (just like the LHO does) .
The one thing that most TGP owners do to there heads is upgrade the valve springs. Reason is, they float at higher rpm's (just like the LHO does) .
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wicked-irocz
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- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2003 11:21 pm
- Location: South Central MN
3.1L MPFI LG5
If it was just rebuilt its not worth the money to pull the heads. Just upgrade the springs if you feel so compeled to with the heads on the car as said above. I dont like wasting money, and redoing a previously done thing is wasting money IMHO.
94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler
Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler
Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
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Z26-T
- Registered User
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:25 am
- Location: South Jordan Utah
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3.1L MPFI LG5
Or you can start building a hybrid and keep the LG5 stock, keep the boost below 10 until the build is done... Then after you put the hybrid in, blow the trans like loner keeps doing... poor kid... and throw your manual in
95' Z26 Beretta- 3400, 282, exhaust. Lots of upgrades still in boxes...
79' Z28 Camaro- Not street legal- 12-1 compression, etc.
S. Comp. Dragster- DEI 350, 600 hp @ 5600, I take it to 7400.
79' Z28 Camaro- Not street legal- 12-1 compression, etc.
S. Comp. Dragster- DEI 350, 600 hp @ 5600, I take it to 7400.
3.1L MPFI LG5
Pull the heads. Change the seats (and move to roller rockers if you can find any, or have them built). Do it right the first time and you'll be happy later.
Kyle
2003 VW New Beetle
2003 VW New Beetle
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Asylum
- Registered User
- Posts: 3050
- Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 9:36 am
- Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
3.1L MPFI LG5
Pull the heads?
Pull the whole damn engine. It's antiquated and not worth spending a bunch of money on.
The "McLaren" engines are not that special and don't make any real measurable HP over a strong production line 3.1
They don't flow worth a hill of beans and no matter what you do to it, it's dead at 5500 RPM
3400/3500 and make some real HP, then spend the money on a turbo set-up if you like.
Or at least swap out the top end and give it a fighting chance.
Pull the whole damn engine. It's antiquated and not worth spending a bunch of money on.
The "McLaren" engines are not that special and don't make any real measurable HP over a strong production line 3.1
They don't flow worth a hill of beans and no matter what you do to it, it's dead at 5500 RPM
3400/3500 and make some real HP, then spend the money on a turbo set-up if you like.
Or at least swap out the top end and give it a fighting chance.
Eric
Asylum Motorsports
"Where we're not happy 'til YOU'RE not happy!
'91 California Quad (Gone with just a bit of "Seller's Remorse".)
'92 3500 GT gone and not really missed. It was fun. Documented 13.47 N/A.
Asylum Motorsports
"Where we're not happy 'til YOU'RE not happy!
'91 California Quad (Gone with just a bit of "Seller's Remorse".)
'92 3500 GT gone and not really missed. It was fun. Documented 13.47 N/A.
3.1L MPFI LG5
There are some GTP's with the 3.1 Turbo engine and they are without problems in the 13 or 14sec...
3.1L MPFI LG5
(michaelGTZ @ May 20 2008,13:48)QUOTEThere are some TGP's with the 3.1 Turbo engine and they are without problems in the 13 or 14sec...
Corrected.
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Z26-T
- Registered User
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:25 am
- Location: South Jordan Utah
- Contact:
3.1L MPFI LG5
He spent the money for the engine, run it until it blow then build a real one .
95' Z26 Beretta- 3400, 282, exhaust. Lots of upgrades still in boxes...
79' Z28 Camaro- Not street legal- 12-1 compression, etc.
S. Comp. Dragster- DEI 350, 600 hp @ 5600, I take it to 7400.
79' Z28 Camaro- Not street legal- 12-1 compression, etc.
S. Comp. Dragster- DEI 350, 600 hp @ 5600, I take it to 7400.