Why add the 92+ brakes?

The 92-95 brakes where redesigned for the ABS addition.  The rotors and pads are about 3/4 of an inch larger and the calipers are mounted on the back of the wheel now, instead of the front.  This produces %30-40 better braking and about double the pedal sensitivity (i.e., you push 1/2 as much for the same stopping power)

Parts Needed

• Steering Knuckles from 92-95 L body car. (These are $190 per side at the dealer, so I recommend you find them at a junkyard - I paid $14.99 per)
  
• Calipers from 92-95 L body (I paid $4.99 for used ones at the junkyards and traded them in for new ones at AutoZone - $13.99 each)
  
• Rotors from 92-95 (Also $13.99 each at AutoZone - no core needed)
  
• Brake line hoses from 92-95 (new at NAPA for $14.99 each)
  
• Inner axle seals (they go in the inside of the steering knuckle)  $4.99 each at Advance Auto.
  
• New 92-95 Brakes Pads (I chose Performance Frictions Carbon Metallic - $34.95 at AutoZone)
  
• Caliper slides (the HEX style mounting screws for the calipers) - I used the ones off the junkyard car, but they can be had new for $6.99 per.
  
• Caliper Lube and Disc Brake quiet (available anywhere for about $3 total)

  Tools Needed

  
  
  • 30mm Axle Nut Socket
    
  • 10mm to 24mm Socket set
    
  • 24, 18, 16 and 13mm open end wrench
    
  • 10mm and 12mm Flare nut wrench
    
  • 200 FtLbs torque wrench
    
  • Torx 50 and 55 socket
    
  • 9mm Hex wrench
    
  • small sledge hammer
    
  • needle nose pliers
    
  • heavy duty axle grease
    
  • and a big can of WD-40.
    (I used my friend’s air tools, which saves a TON of time)

***Disclaimer*** Test car for this conversion was an 89 Beretta GT w/FE3 and 16'' GTU rims with 225/50R16 tires.  While it SHOULD work for any 87-91 cars, please research it fully before attempting it.  If you mess up your car in any way while following these instructions, please realize that I cannot be held responsible in ANY way.  This should not be attempted without the proper tools or experience - BE CARFUL PEOPLE!

Instructions for converting 87-91 Beretta/Corsica to the 92-95 ABS style brakes (minus the ABS, of course)

**PLEASE NOTE, THIS MODIFACATION REQUIRES 14'' WHEELS MINUMUM FOR BRAKE CLEARANCE!!**

Procedure

1. First, jack up the front of the car support it with jack stands.  Then remove the wheels.
2. Start removing the old brake equipment - remove the brake line from the calipers and let the fluid drain into a pan - then remove the calipers, rotors and pads.  Then remove the brake line hoses. See figure 1
3. Next, remove the axle nuts (This is MUCH easier with an impact gun - without it, you may need to reinstall the tire and low the car to get the darned thing loose) and washer.
4. Now remove the hub assy.'s and brake dust shields - once bolts are off, tap LIGHTLY on the axle shaft to break the hub loose ***Hammering on the axle shaft too hard WILL damage the bearings - BE CARFUL - get a puller if it doesn't come off easily***
5. Next, break loose the lower strut bolts, but do not remove them yet (I used a sledge to break them loose, but be careful, it's easy to DAMAGE the threads.) - Then remove the ball joint cotter pin and bolt, and tap lightly on the steering knuckle and lower control arm to break it loose - Remove the sway bar end links and bushings. (These are usually rusted solid - plan on having a replacement set on hand). Now remove the strut bolts and then the steering knuckles.
6. Now comes what I considered to be the hardest part of the job - the brake line hoses.  As I stated before, the calipers are now on the opposite side of the wheel, therefore the steel lines that come from the master cylinder to the bracket where it attaches to the brake hose are pointing the wrong way!  There is plenty of slack in the steel line, so what I did was basically bend the hose 180 degrees so it comes across the axle shaft and goes into the bracket the opposite direction. (See illustrations).  I took my time and was VERY careful not to kink the steel hose anywhere while making sure the brake like would clear the axle.  I then removed the strut bracket on the new brake hose since the 92-95 mounting bracket for the lines is in a different place, therefore giving the new hose plenty of travel (my 225/50's cleared by 3-5 inches on both sides). See figure 2 and figure 3
7. Ok, now that the hard parts out of the way - install the new inner seals into the steering knuckles, then install the steering knuckles, first put the ball joint in and secure the nut, then slip it over the axle shaft and then into the struts - now install the strut bolts and tighten to 131Ft Lbs. (NOTE: The strut bolts now install the opposite direction as the old ones - nut towards the calipers)
8. Now clean up the hub assy's and grease the axle shaft and inside of hubs, then install the hubs and the brake dust shields and bolts (Torque bolts to 67Ft Lbs). (NOTE: You will need to swap the left and right brake dust shields, as they won't clear otherwise). Install and hand tighten the axle nuts and washers.  Reinstall the sway bar end links. See figure 4
9. Grease and install the caliper slides into the calipers, then coat the backside of the pads with disc quiet and install them into the calipers.  Install the rotors (I put one lug nut on the hub to keep each rotor in place).  Now install the calipers on to the steering knuckles - making sure to lubricate the pointy parts of the steering knuckles where the pads slide back and forth.
10. Install the brake line hoses to the calipers.  Now fill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes (You'll need a friend for this).  Be sure to check for leaks after they are bled - have the friend pump the pedal and inspect all hoses and connections (I had a leak on my right caliper where the hose attached - I had to replace one of those gold spacer/seals.). See figure 5 (top of page)
11. Do a final check and make sure all bolts, nuts and cotter pins are tight and installed correctly.  Torque the axle nuts to 191Ft Lbs.  Reinstall the wheels and lug nuts, and then have a friend turn the wheel lock to lock while you check for brake line clearance.  Once satisfied, lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 100Ft Lbs.
    

That's it!  You’re done!  Take the car out for that all-important test drive and give yourself a pat on the back!  It should be noted that my Carbon Metallic pads recommend a 100 mile break in time, and that during that time, normal stop and go driving is recommended (NOTE: Your brakes will get VERY hot, and usually smoke and smell horrible for the first 1-200 miles - so BE careful)

BE SURE TO HAVE YOUR CAR REALIGNED ASAP.

You probably notice that I painted the calipers, rotors and steering knuckles - I used BBQ Paint (Aluminum was the color).  It's good for up to 1000 degrees, is super rust resistant, and doesn't require primer. See figure 6

It took me and a friend 4 hours to complete the conversion (That's with air tools and experiance) - I would allow a full day.

If you have any questions, please e-mail me (preferably BEFORE you try it) at:
choate@ourpeak.com