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That sounds like a head gasket.  The oil in the pan is diluting the coolant enough that it does not show yet.  Only really bad head gaskets do that.  Try a pressure check of the cooling system if you really want to verify and have the gear.

Well. the starter does sound like it's probably not engaging (solenoid, but just replace the whole unit an ounce of prevention you know).  The stalling is another issue entirely.  Check your Crank Position Sensor, Ignition System, and the Fuel Delivery.  Those are the likely candidates.

88 models past vin 500000 do not require cleaning of the injectors (normally) as they changed the design.  If they are performing poorly you can get them cleaned or replace them.  IF they are going in for service why check them and risk frying one out?  Also, they are not checked at the factory that...

You have an intermittent issue somewhere.  Try and find the code that it set.  Sometimes something simple like an EGR does this as it fails.  Is there a particular set of circumstances that cause the light to come on?

The main sensor for engine speed the ECM monitors is the Crankshaft Sensor.  Since the Speedo get the signal from the tranny sensor and this has nothing to do with the ECM control of the idle.  If the idle is suddenly high you may have had something go out when the car initially stalled.  Check for ...

With the clutch and cables for manual tranny's.

Even Money on a bent rim, underinflated tires, or a bent component.  Could be the stab bar is tweaked, causing a tip in the wheel too.  Also the alignment should have been all wheels.

gm-parts-direct has them for 52 dollars delivered.  This is a hard to get part, so could be a PITA to find one.  What is wrong with the existing?

Coulda swore you said you ohmed them out.  How did the short get thru?  Was it intermittent or you Might need a new meter.

This is an old topic but this may help others on engine prep : Super Clean is still available, and works so good I don't use anything else.  As for kerosene, not a good idea, it leaves a residue that will burn off and is a dangerous anyway, not to mention that any petroleum product is not permitted ...

That kinda thing happens all the time.  You bend something lifting or lowering a powertrain in or drop a tiny socket and can't find it.  It is the crap that makes an easy job a PITA.  At least you got it to run again easily without dropping the tranny again!

That could be the key.  A low spark could cause insufficient burn in the cylinders and that would describe the readings quite well.  Although it may not be the volts but the amps causing more of the problems.  It is relatively simple to remove the alternator then just take it into a parts store for ...

Hard to figure out without looking at it.  Is the cable routed properly to that point?  Double check your install of the tranny and make sure it is all correct too.  A quick search of the repair info might give a good pic or diagram of the way it all mounts up and give a clue.  You could also rig a ...

That is the sound of either a bad blower motor (will do it in all modes, not just a/c) or a problem in the a/c system if only doing it in a/c.  Typically if isolated to the a/c setting it is a problem in the compressor and the dang thing has to be replaced.  A loose condensor or coil can cause this ...

sounds like the rear brakes due to the reverse working ok.  rear drums are direction-specific in that they are really activated by the wheel turning.  Sounds like they are applied hydraulically all the time.  Look for a problem in the pipes or master cylinder valve.  Also try checking the brake boos...