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I need to replace my front suspension on both sides up front, so I want to know if there is a good sturdy place near the front of the car to put my jack and stands. I've been putting the stand on the side near where the jack points are but I'm not sure this is the best place to put them.

Thanks!

Yes, you should be fine placing your jackstands behind the front wheel-wells at the front jack-points, so long as your car isn't compromised by rust. Secure the rear-wheels from rolling with the e-brake AND wheel-chocks to make sure the car doesn't try to slide off of the stands, and slide your front wheels under the car and out of your way as you remove them for a little added safety -shiny side up, of course! The Berettas have enough body-flex that if you remove both front sub-frames at the same time, you might encounter just a little resistance when trying to bolt them back in, but it is manageable. My '89 GTU spent a couple of months in the take-off position while I was doing the 3800 S/C engine-swap and exhaust work back in the day, and my second '95 Z with the DOHC V-6 Turbo swap spent an extended time propped-up too -I went for the beefed-up frame area near the subframe bolts on that car though, and avoided the pinch-weld where the jack-mount is just because I had the Z pointing so steeply up for much of the time.

Do NOT support the car in the actual front, like the radiator core-support, if you are removing both subframes simultaneously though -that body-flex is just not healthy in that situation, and you could stress something in the unibody frame. Best test is to jack the car up, then try to open and close the doors (carefully), and note if they sound or feel a little different than usual...

Rettax3 wrote:Yes, you should be fine placing your jackstands behind the front wheel-wells at the front jack-points, so long as your car isn't compromised by rust. Secure the rear-wheels from rolling with the e-brake AND wheel-chocks to make sure the car doesn't try to slide off of the stands, and slide your front wheels under the car and out of your way as you remove them for a little added safety -shiny side up, of course! The Berettas have enough body-flex that if you remove both front sub-frames at the same time, you might encounter just a little resistance when trying to bolt them back in, but it is manageable. My '89 GTU spent a couple of months in the take-off position while I was doing the 3800 S/C engine-swap and exhaust work back in the day, and my second '95 Z with the DOHC V-6 Turbo swap spent an extended time propped-up too -I went for the beefed-up frame area near the subframe bolts on that car though, and avoided the pinch-weld where the jack-mount is just because I had the Z pointing so steeply up for much of the time.

Do NOT support the car in the actual front, like the radiator core-support, if you are removing both subframes simultaneously though -that body-flex is just not healthy in that situation, and you could stress something in the unibody frame. Best test is to jack the car up, then try to open and close the doors (carefully), and note if they sound or feel a little different than usual...

Thanks! I think when I was looking under the car there was these large sturdy looking chunks of metal I think a little bit past the front suspention. Are those also a good place to put stands. I think its part of the frame but I'm not sure

Cam2363 wrote:

Rettax3 wrote:Do NOT support the car in the actual front, like the radiator core-support, if you are removing both subframes simultaneously though -that body-flex is just not healthy in that situation, and you could stress something in the unibody frame. Best test is to jack the car up, then try to open and close the doors (carefully), and note if they sound or feel a little different than usual...

Thanks! I think when I was looking under the car there was these large sturdy looking chunks of metal I think a little bit past the front suspention. Are those also a good place to put stands. I think its part of the frame but I'm not sure

If the suspension work you are doing does not require removal of the front subframes (so no sway-bar bushings, no lower control-arm bushings) then the subframes themselves are a great place to support the car. They are the beefiest part of a Beretta short of the engine-block and transmission case.

I would support it near or at the rearmost part of the subframe as an ideal -it keeps your jackstands back and out of your way, and supports the car where it needs it the most.

Rettax3 wrote:

Cam2363 wrote:

Rettax3 wrote:Do NOT support the car in the actual front, like the radiator core-support, if you are removing both subframes simultaneously though -that body-flex is just not healthy in that situation, and you could stress something in the unibody frame. Best test is to jack the car up, then try to open and close the doors (carefully), and note if they sound or feel a little different than usual...

Thanks! I think when I was looking under the car there was these large sturdy looking chunks of metal I think a little bit past the front suspention. Are those also a good place to put stands. I think its part of the frame but I'm not sure

If the suspension work you are doing does not require removal of the front subframes (so no sway-bar bushings, no lower control-arm bushings) then the subframes themselves are a great place to support the car. They are the beefiest part of a Beretta short of the engine-block and transmission case.

I would support it near or at the rearmost part of the subframe as an ideal -it keeps your jackstands back and out of your way, and supports the car where it needs it the most.

Well the plan is I'm going to basically do a rebuild of the suspention, so everything's going. So where would you reccomend it then? Should I use the subframe for the jack and then the stands where the jack points go? And then just remove the jack. And would it be a good idea to put a block of wood or something ontop of the stands or let them be?

Yes, I would lift via the subframe then support behind the rearmost end of the subframe, as I said, in one of the stronger areas inboard of the jack-lift point of the pinch-weld, or the pinch-weld itself should be okay. Typically, I don't like stacking things when lifting or supporting, because those layers can slide or roll. You will be pushing and pulling on this car, getting everything out, and it needs to be secure. After you have the car lifted, give a a few good shakes before getting underneath...

Rettax3 wrote:Yes, I would lift via the subframe then support behind the rearmost end of the subframe, as I said, in one of the stronger areas inboard of the jack-lift point of the pinch-weld, or the pinch-weld itself should be okay. Typically, I don't like stacking things when lifting or supporting, because those layers can slide or roll. You will be pushing and pulling on this car, getting everything out, and it needs to be secure. After you have the car lifted, give a a few good shakes before getting underneath...

That's why I wasnt sure about putting something on them. I kinda knew the basics but just wanted to be careful cuz the car would be up for probably 2 or 3 days and I didnt want to damage anything. Thanks for your help!

Haha, my car usually spends waaaay more time on jackstands than that!

I usually use the pinch weld or the subframe to support the weight. Just be careful when moving from one side to the other, because with one side raised it will teeter totter a little bit. But once both sides are done it should be stable.

woody90gtz wrote:Haha, my car usually spends waaaay more time on jackstands than that!

I usually use the pinch weld or the subframe to support the weight. Just be careful when moving from one side to the other, because with one side raised it will teeter totter a little bit. But once both sides are done it should be stable.

Thanks! I was just gonna do one side at a time.