93 Beretta Running Bad

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:56 am

93 Beretta 3.1 Auto 178km.
Engine bogs, no service lights on, when in neutral the engine seems to rev fine, when problem happens the transmission makes noise when moving in reverse.. Changed plugs, wires, fuel filter, transmission oil+filter(reverse noise went away). Every thing is okay for a while then bogs. Checked all plugs again and they are not wet.

When problem happens I can smell gas from the exhaust.

Please help.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:09 pm

Could be a bad coil or the control module. I go with the control module, it's under the coils if your not sure where it is. What brand of wires did you use? Always use the brand with the lowest ohms for the longest wire.
I did come up with one more thing: timing chain, it's about time for a new one. Oops, could also be the vapor canister(purge valve). When does it bog? Sorry, my head is not in the game right now.

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:51 pm

I'm not sure what wires I used but it ran fine for months after I replaced them.

The car runs fine, then after a while it bogs. Sometimes fine for a couple of days.

When driving it will bog then it will sputter and the car will surge forward.

If the chain was gone wouldn't it do it all the time?

2nejunkie · Post by **2nejunkie** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:55 pm

Check TPS voltage
Wifey has a Other model did the smae thing and I replaced TPS to much Success.
160 BUX tho!

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:24 pm

How can I check that if it is intermittent? Any ideal what voltage I should get?

Left to take my son to soccer today and it was running rough and as I was accelerating it sputter and ran fine th 8 k to soccer. One hour later when I went to return home it ran rough the whole way home.

Gas mileage has gone down by 150k per tank.

What is your theory on the TPS?

Thanks.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:10 pm

The chain should do it all the time. Can you recheck the plug wires? When was the last time that you put a new fuel filter on? That can make a sputter and a bog. The thing is that it will not change the fact that the fuel is going out the pipe. You may have more than one thing wrong. Could be the control module or a coil. When you get everything done and it runs fine all the time be sure to change the oil(it should have gas in it after all of this). Check for a vacuum leak too(again only good to stop a surge). Keep us up on this, we would like to hear that it's fixed.

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:07 am

I removed the plug wires to check them and the part that goes over the end of the spark plug separated from the wire. I assume this is bad?

I also changed the fuel filter and drained the tank.

Another piece of the puzzle is that I changed some of the gas lines a few months back with a combination of steel and rubber hoses.

When I originally changed the wires and gas lines it ran fine for at least a couple of months.

Shouldn't there be an error code/ service engine light on?

Any chance it could be an injector?

One other thing is that sometimes you go to start it and it doesn't turn over so you have to back the key and try one or two more times. I think this is unrelated but you never know. This car has auto start and from my experiences with other vehicles this could be part of the problem.

Is there a way to check the module or coil without purchasing a new one?

I have to figure out if this car is worth spending more money on. (new tires, brakes, drums rotors, gas tank, alternator, front end, fuel filter, wires, plugs)

Anyone have the right answer book?

Thanks again for the help.

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 12:20 pm

I finally got the problem to show up so I removed each spark plug wire to see if there was one that did not make a difference and sure enough the middle front plug has no spark. I changed the wire and still no spark.

I removed the coil assembly and removed the coil that was not sparking and all the connectors look good.

Should I replace the coil or the ECM?

Sure is a lot of work to speculate here.

Please help.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 4:52 pm

Yes, repalce the coil first. You can put the end back on the plug wire, it's hard to do(I've done it a few times). I can help you on that if you want. I had 214,000 miles on my old Beretta before the crash and it ran strong. So, I'd say keep it. You will need a chain soon, with that said you will spend more money on a new car. It's up to you...
If you have the money get a new control module also(my car lost two coils in one month in the same spot and none after the new control module). Get a GM CM of better. One thing at a time and it will be good as new. What's wrong with the tank?

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:06 pm

I changed the coil and replaced the broken wires under warrenty. They were the front wires so they are pretty easy to replace. It seems to run okay now but I'm not holding my breath at this time. Nice place to locate the coils, fun wow. Is there an easy way to take that apart? I took the starter out as it gave me a little more room to get at the bolts.The tank was leaking around the straps, rusted out. Thanks and I'll let you know. No budget for a new car but I need some reliability. Have a change to get a 97 civic with 227k for 2k with many things replaced but I just don't want to get into the same problem.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:36 pm

You may end up with the same trouble on the new car. On the coils, take the bolts off of the radiator so that you can push it and get some room. It makes it easy if you take the coils and control module out as one. It's also best to take the wires off(put some tape and # them). I should have said go in from the top. Dang, you are done! Well, next time I guess?

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:33 pm

How bad is the rust on the tank and straps? Eastwood makes some great deruster and something I have used alot called Rust Encapsulator to keep the rust away after the deruster. They also have Tank Tone, it makes the tank look good and it has Zinc to keep the rust in check. I'd use the deruster and then the tank tone(if you can).

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 12:27 pm

There isn't any room to go in from the top because of the AC line and the steel piece that goes across the top of the rad. Once the starter is out and the fan pushed aside it isn't too bad from the bottom minus all the debris that falls in your eyes. I already replaced the gas tank because it was leaking where the straps were. The list I gave previously were items that I already replaced. How big of a job is it to replace the timing chain? The coil seems to have solved the problem and it was a lot cheaper than replacing the ECM which runs $370 compared to a $60 coil.

Thanks for the info. and I'll keep you updated if the problem returns. The car has only been driven 2 days so I'm still not holding my breath.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:22 pm

If you have another coil go bad it's the control module(just FYI). The chain would be very hard, you will need tools that are set up for just that. Also, you must be sure to line up the timing marks and find top dead center on the #1 cylinder(kinda hard to do if you don't know how). Take it to a shop it will cost alot, but the engine should be good for another 170k. Did you change the oil?

dctaz37 · Post by **dctaz37** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:57 pm

I kind of figured the control module would be the next thing to replace if a coil or the running bad problem continues. I haven't changed a timing chain in some time but I have a manual and I'm fairly mechanically enclined. How many $$ do you estimate. I'm going to driv e the car for a week and if the problem is resolved I will change the oil. Thanks.

Connect with your social network account