FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
- IsaacHayes
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Ultima brand. Once monday rolls around I'll start calling around the yards.
Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
If it makes you feel better I had the internal plate shatter at the track one time. That was not a fun trip home, took about 4.5 hours (normally about 1.25) and repeated battery swaps.
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
how old is the alternator?
Its not that bad to fix a hood. If you don't have a welder maybe have a shop do it if it seriously costs $600 at a yard. Around here nothings over $100.
Its not that bad to fix a hood. If you don't have a welder maybe have a shop do it if it seriously costs $600 at a yard. Around here nothings over $100.
94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler
Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler

Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
- IsaacHayes
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- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: Missouri
Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Alt still looked new. Maybe 3 years or so? I've replaced it under warranty probably 5 times now since 1999.
The damage is in the "dip" part of the hood and made a large area rise up, so you'd need a BIG 6" diameter hammer to make that flat, or beat the piss out of it all over to get it down low, not counting the main area of damage. Then have to weld, bondo, and recreate the dip line and make everything flat. Going to take a lot of time, or cost a lot of labor.
RockAuto has a new hood for $80 + $120 shipping. If I have to paint then that could be my cheapest route. Still waiting for yards to get back to me, I'm going to keep bugging them.
The damage is in the "dip" part of the hood and made a large area rise up, so you'd need a BIG 6" diameter hammer to make that flat, or beat the piss out of it all over to get it down low, not counting the main area of damage. Then have to weld, bondo, and recreate the dip line and make everything flat. Going to take a lot of time, or cost a lot of labor.
RockAuto has a new hood for $80 + $120 shipping. If I have to paint then that could be my cheapest route. Still waiting for yards to get back to me, I'm going to keep bugging them.
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- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2003 11:21 pm
- Location: South Central MN
Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
basically If it has a warranty you can have the company pay for your hood and not have to worry about it. I work at Advance and its happened numerous times with other things but never a hole in a hood.
94 Beretta Z26 57,4xx miles
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler
Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
3100, auto, crank windows, power locks/trunk, A/C,
To many mods to list
-intercooler

Among beretta boards
1st Turbo 4t60-e
1st Turbo 3100
1st Turbo Z26
1st 94+ Turbo
- IsaacHayes
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Really? We'll I guess I know where I'm stopping by after work. But good luck getting money out of some company... I feel even if I do get the info it will be a big run-around.
- 3X00-Modified
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
It's still worth a shot.IsaacHayes wrote:Really? We'll I guess I know where I'm stopping by after work. But good luck getting money out of some company... I feel even if I do get the info it will be a big run-around.
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
If you have to use a hammer it would be best to use a shrinking hammer. When the metal was ripped open it stretched. The thing is you will also need a dolly and I don't know how you would reach that far on both sides. You could use a shrinking dolly on the bottom side and a hammer on top(that way you don't have all those little squares mashed into the top). The key is not to shrink too much or too little.
keep'em flying!
- IsaacHayes
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
I'd take the hood off and do it that way. Don't want to hit the metal fins on the new alt and make them get a crack and fly off too... or hit the windshield and crack that..
Then you'd reach from the back side of the hood closest to the windshield....
Spoke with the parts store, they told me to get an estimate at this one place. The manager will be back tuesday.
Then you'd reach from the back side of the hood closest to the windshield....
Spoke with the parts store, they told me to get an estimate at this one place. The manager will be back tuesday.
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Wow, you don't need to hit it that hard. Just work it out, take your time. I learned the hard way on that. That's good news on the parts store.
keep'em flying!
- 3X00-Modified
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Got that bad of aim your afraid to hit the windshield... LOLIsaacHayes wrote:I'd take the hood off and do it that way. Don't want to hit the metal fins on the new alt and make them get a crack and fly off too... or hit the windshield and crack that..


- IsaacHayes
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Well if you have the hood open proped up, one hand under one hand on top, swing back on the upstroke is where it'd get close to the wind shield.
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
I understand.
If your not going to shrink the metal a good dolly would still help. Watch out you may have an overlap. Hey, do you have a photo of the hood?
If your not going to shrink the metal a good dolly would still help. Watch out you may have an overlap. Hey, do you have a photo of the hood?
keep'em flying!
- IsaacHayes
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Re: FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!
Nope just of the alt right before i ran out the door. I have a million things going on it's low on my priority list.
i still have to get an estimate.
i still have to get an estimate.
- Money pit Beretta
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