1996 Mr.Pink

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:43 pm

Damn glad I bought some Moog control arms. My stockers must be worse than yours. Not looking forward to putting these things on. May give up and have a shop do it, not something I want to do. Really my body just can't take a hard fight with rusted crap anymore.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:15 pm

Did you buy the moog problem solver control arms? I'm curious to see what bushings come in those.

whiteretta · Post by **whiteretta** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:49 pm

I don't think the problem solver bushings come in them, at least that's what I remember from looking at them on RockAuto a while ago. I'm surprised your control arms were in that shape and rusting if it's not a winter car, maybe coat the new ones with POR 15 like I did mine? I was surprised how cheap the 4 oz. can is and how far it goes.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:15 pm

This is all prior rust from before when it was installed... The control arm on the passenger side was an original off a 94 daily parts car I bought I never removed those bushings in the rear so anything that was in the seams of those arms just continued to eat away at them...

The drivers side is more of an illustration of how other stuff has come off this car... it looks just like it did the day I installed it. Springs are still mint and have no signs of the powder coat coming off.

I also assumed the same thing with the Moog arms and wasn't going to take a gamble with the price difference and especially since I probably can't even use the ball joint so I figured Delco arms are probably just as good as the steel the Moog ones would use.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 3:17 pm

I went with the Moog control arms with "FE3" bushings and their cheaper ball joints(you can't get the better ones with the combo).

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 3:56 pm

It says FE3 sport suspension but do you know if that is just there to tell you it will fit the Z26? I highly doubt Moog made bushings that were different durometer like GM did, and what really seals the deal is the fact that they only sell one set of bushings separate from the control arm... If they made different versions I think they would have all been available separately. Their K6284 PN is for pre 94 horizontal bushings and the K6351 PN is for 94+ with the vertical rear.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:11 pm

I've yet to find a site with a full list of Moog parts for our cars. Just found out this year that they make parts for nuclear powered subs(something for the bow planes).
Seems like they made a lot, but just kept what was selling in the market. There is always Dorkman parts, that is if you don't like your car.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:13 am

Things are getting close to a start up... Only about 5 parts that need to go on before I can start it. One of those parts are the axles... Without those I can't start it because there is no fluid in the trans.

Primed the motor and it runs about 60psi and will kick on the fuel pump when priming so everything is good there.

Also trying out a new deadhead routing for the fuel lines. It's a return less style rail and the return fuel that goes back to the tank only runs through the regulator and not under the hot intake. Hopefully that keeps the fuel temps down.

Having all this time had caused me to go very slow during assembly so I think everything is going to be 100% set when I start it for the first time.

I should know details on my axles today and hopefully they will be able to ship tomorrow at the latest so I can get them for the weekend. Or at least next week. Going to be in Jersey this weekend assembling a playground for my nephews.

And one thing I've noticed with this engine... it has a lot of compression or simply a good seal on the cylinders because damn is it tough to turn over with the plugs in it... very little air bleeds by the rings and whatever does it's slow!

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Tue Apr 28, 2015 7:09 pm

3X00-Modified wrote:Did you buy the moog problem solver control arms? I'm curious to see what bushings come in those.

I'm going to recheck that(forgot to write it down). There were two brands and I swear that the front was a clevite(which was odd).

Ah good compression, something I dream of. If you have it you don't even think about it, if you don't your feeling sick every time it's driven.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 7:51 am

Really, check out Heatshield Products(Summit has them or check their site). I know they have shield with Velcro for systems with return lines. The smaller stuff will be a slip on, which could be a pain.
Got their intake shield on my CAI right now. Again I love it and use half the throttle that I use to use to get moving or to speed up. No more droning sound coming from the engine when getting up to speed or going up hills. It just pulls. Could be that you may not see(feel) as much do to your good compression and power. Still it would help on the heat soak before you run down the strip. Did help my Cavy DD with its WAI and you could feel it more.
Stepping down from the soapbox now.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:03 am

Its not shielding that's the issue... Fuel running through the fuel rails under the intake where it's hot it absorbs the heat and is dumped back into the tank... The way I have it setup now it comes from the feed to the regulator and goes directly back to the tank... The other inlet of the regulator feeds the rails so all of the fuel that is sent to the rail is used and not returned to the tank.

3500's stock have a return less rail setup so I'm basically copying that with my new regulator. You can't do it with a stock regulator since it is placed on the end of the fuel rail and not before it.

What It was before

and what I have now, Just put the nitrous solenoid off the regulator since it has 4 inlets on it... So that too will be getting cool fresh fuel every use and not leftover from the rail.

Slinky · Post by **Slinky** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:13 am

3X00-Modified wrote:Its not shielding that's the issue... Fuel running through the fuel rails under the intake where it's hot it absorbs the heat and is dumped back into the tank... The way I have it setup now it comes from the feed to the regulator and goes directly back to the tank... The other inlet of the regulator feeds the rails so all of the fuel that is sent to the rail is used and not returned to the tank.

3500's stock have a return less rail setup so I'm basically copying that with my new regulator. You can't do it with a stock regulator since it is placed on the end of the fuel rail and not before it.

What It was before

and what I have now, Just put the nitrous solenoid off the regulator since it has 4 inlets on it... So that too will be getting cool fresh fuel every use and not leftover from the rail.

Im still debating this, im awaiting to see how it turns out on your setup, so get to it and get it driving!

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:23 am

You call CV source and tell him to hurry up then.

Slinky · Post by **Slinky** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:37 am

3X00-Modified wrote:You call CV source and tell him to hurry up then.

I would but you would prob never get it

1988GTU · Post by **1988GTU** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:05 am

What temps were you seeing with the returned fuel?

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