Beretta.net

Here's the one image I didn't have of the housing split with the two shafts in place and the front diff.

Well No 5th with engine running.... DAMMIT! I think the Baulk levers are in the 5th hub backwards so they don't rock to engage the syncro they are just locking the sleeve in place when spinning.

Gotta pull the transfer case off and remove the rear input shaft nut to pull the hub off... Doing it at my father inlaw's tonight because I'm tired of being on the ground.

3rd feels good and the clutch shakes like a mother ****** when letting off... Yippee...

I have no explanation on that one either... I'm at a loss on the clutch.

Fresh turned flywheel with the .075 step spec they call for... and the fresh clutch. Flywheel torqued to ~53ftlbs as manual says and the pressure plate is to 25ftlbs because the 11.8 they call for isn't even enough to get the plate against the flywheel flat.

All surfaces cleaned with brake parts cleaner before going together... I didn't leave that oil on there.













I put the precision balanced sticker opposite the paint mark on the flywheel since they say to have the unbalanced paint marks at least 120* apart in the manual, but there was no REAL mark on this pressure plate like the OEM one had....





Stock paint mark on OEM pressure plate

I'd suggest trying a stock clutch kit from a local parts store. If it cancels out, then its the clutch assembly, if its still there, rutoh!

I can reuse my original one that only had 50k on it... But I don't know if I really want to do that yet... I may wait till I get the 500 miles of break in on it to see if it's still doing it.

Dropping the trans to replace the clutch in this car is NOT a simple job... Too many damn shafts that need to be removed LOL

True that on at least breakin the new clutch in.


Dont lie, you like handling all those shafts

Defective clutch maybe? I have lost faith in a lot of companies to get it right the first time...or second...

We'll see, just got off the phone with Lonnie at Clutch Masters and he told me to put some miles on it and keep him updated.

Fixing the 5th problem now.

Baulk levers in backwards, fixed them last night and buttoned up everything this am. Lucky only had to remove the transfer case not the whole trans. 5th works and it doesn't pop out of 3rd anymore so that's good.

Well to add to this I tried getting a cheap E-bay exhaust and to my surprise the mufflers weren't packed with anything so it was just TOOO loud... The whole car echoed inside and was unbearable to drive. SO I sold that and picked up an Invida exhaust... I also tried to get a CNT downpipe with cat for the car since my current setup is a bit old and tired... That didn't work out fitting wise so I ended up with an Invidia downpipe as well.

So I now have this waiting to go on my car.





Purdy... LOL

Redoing exhaust...all the cool people are doing it!

Stainless FTW!

The job going on... Way more room under the car vs your shorty lift there Craig... LOL
Old and rusted


New Hot chit












Even all Invidia it didn't fit quite right... I think they designed this system on a legacy with an old saggy trans mount because my group N is obviously lifting the tailshaft of the transmission too high in comparison. The flex pipe was dead against the heat shield and carrier bearing bracket.

Had to loosen the turbo brackets, release the hook on the trans bracket and space it off with a nut... If I just bolted it in as is it would lift the rear part of the downpipe too high.

Nut spacer on the trans bracket



Clearance with the nut spacer... I plan to make a new trans hanger that drops it just a bit lower... But I haven't heard anything hit yet.






Once it's clean I'll get a better rear shot as well as lower so you can see the cross pipe... which btw from behind looks like its about 1" off the ground when it's way higher than that.

New brakes went on today as well as I found this...

Left Side







Right side





Fronts with powdercoat issues which may result in the same thing as the rear.



Left rear came off in 5 pieces.



Right rear 2



Doesn't look like MSI exists anymore but these were supposidly made by Eibach and re-sold by MSI... Now I've had Eibach springs on my Beretta's for years and NEVER had this issue... these springs are 4 years old almost to the day and appear to have been broken for a while now. This explains why I've been bottoming out my exhaust now.

Ended up putting my stock springs back on... Gotta bleed the brakes and do an alignment on it tomorrow.

My Intrex springs that I had on the old beretta broke on the driver side

They have the same warranty as Eibach?