Beretta.net

1988GTU wrote:

Barry wrote:Gm really dosent learn. I dont understand some of their moves. I also think if they mated the 3100 to a stick tranny the beretta would be a more respected car like the integra and such.

Winter break is when I plan to get this thing back together and get it on the road again. I am actually off today so im going to start swapping parts over from the motors and modify the block for the new 3500. If I have time ill get the flywheel turned.

The target market just is not the same as the teggy's and such. When I see a nice stock Beretta, I see a old lady driving it. If I see a kid driving a Beretta, it is often beat up and just shy of being in the junkyard.

Thats exactly why. The only reason a old lady is driving it is becasue it was automatic and the integra gsr that she wanted only came stick.

Im saying that IF gm would of made this car competative with the integra, celica, dsm, etc it would be better respected in the car community today.


But in the end, I guess its the reason I choose to make mine faster.. to beat the ricers and still have nobody expect it.

Be sure to post some pics of the work done. Are you going to rebuild the heads?

Yeah I will. I just found my camera and cable(about freaking time!) but now my freind is borrowing it.

Im not touching the heads other than doing springs. The new motor has low milage( like 8 or 10k I forget already).

Tonight I got some stuff done. Swapped most of the old parts onto the new motor. Still need to mod the block. Also need to locate some bigger injectors. Maybe some 3800s/c ones. Or ford 5.0's.

Still need to order valve springs and order poly for the tranny mounts too.

Barry wrote:

1988GTU wrote:

Barry wrote:Gm really dosent learn. I dont understand some of their moves. I also think if they mated the 3100 to a stick tranny the beretta would be a more respected car like the integra and such.

Winter break is when I plan to get this thing back together and get it on the road again. I am actually off today so im going to start swapping parts over from the motors and modify the block for the new 3500. If I have time ill get the flywheel turned.

The target market just is not the same as the teggy's and such. When I see a nice stock Beretta, I see a old lady driving it. If I see a kid driving a Beretta, it is often beat up and just shy of being in the junkyard.

Thats exactly why. The only reason a old lady is driving it is becasue it was automatic and the integra gsr that she wanted only came stick.

Im saying that IF gm would of made this car competative with the integra, celica, dsm, etc it would be better respected in the car community today.


But in the end, I guess its the reason I choose to make mine faster.. to beat the ricers and still have nobody expect it.

A regular old Integra will be slow and auto just like the auto beretta.
Look at the foreign car, it could better make its name with a stick for being an econobox. You slap a manual trans in a Beretta, it still is a beretta just now instead of grandma's driving it, you'll have older men sporting the car around.
The Beretta is too big to be considered an economy car, too small to be a family car, so where do you put it? In the coupe category, where nothing really sells for a long time.

The only thing the Beretta had really going for itself in the economy dept. was the cheap interior. They did well there!

This is coming from a guy that likes these weird cars. Still haven't really came up with an answer why I have them still.

what size injectors are you looking for. i got some 24lb ones if you need them.

It's my fault, I started bitching about the gears in my trans. Then came the snowball.
Sorry Barry, I asked the same thing twice(the heads). Somehow I lost track... I wonder how.

I cleaned up this thread... And consider this a verbal warning to both Asylum and Suzuki, Also I will not allow ANY arguments or accusations to be brought over from another board, because that's all they are. THIS IS NOT WHAT THIS PLACE IS FOR. You want to argue get a damn AIM screen name and hash it out. I will continue to delete posts if I see them to be just fire starters.

If you have a problem with this you know how to contact me.

Carry on Barry

Barry, you had the filled dogbone from me right? Did you ever replace the poly in that with the ES bushings? Or is it still holding up?!

IsaacHayes wrote:Barry, you had the filled dogbone from me right? Did you ever replace the poly in that with the ES bushings? Or is it still holding up?!

I was about to PM you about that, it is still holding up perfectly fine! One of the only parts I havent broken yet!haha

What poly did you use? The only thing I can think of as to why mine holds up is becasue it had about a year to cure as it sat on the shelf. I bought it for the base but never installed in until I built this Z.

Yeah the curing probably helped. I put mine in pretty soon after I made them and it started to get slightly loose around the sleeve. So I just threw in the poly pieces. I haven't had it in for a long time though, because I was trying to figure out my vibration and shake issues, which turned out to be a cheap wheel bearing and sagging trans mount. Now I need to find out what the metal poping sound is when turning the wheel far side to side. Ugh.

The thread I had for them had the part #'s... I don't recall the part #s off hand.

The poly was the forsche (spelling?) 2 part poly that mcmaster car sells. I bought it from wanako originally. It's 80 shore. The left over scrap did get harder after a few months I noticed.

http://bstuff.com/index.php?showtopic=5 ... t&p=698949

There is how to rebuild it with ES bushings. Just one bolt sleeve IIRC needs to be trimmed which I've done with a hax-saw before and cleaned up with a grinder/file. The poly just trim the said amount with a razor blade on the insides so it sits flush in the recess.

Ill wait for it to fail before I rebuild it. I dont see that happening any time soon though, the sleeves can slide out of the poly but its not getting any worse.

Ordering poly and valve springs this week.

Any tips on doing springs with the lim still on? Im thinking pressurize the cylinder and make a tool that screws into the rocker stud hole and compresses the spring while leaving me space to get the keepers out. Im sure someone makes the right tool, but ill build one i guess. Maybe ill even use a existing roller rocker to make it out of.

Right, the sleeves can slide out right after they were cured, because it was not molded with smaller sleeves then the normal ones pressed in for pre-load. As long as it's not knocking around getting wallowed out it should be fine. Pretty cool it's surviving all your clutch dumps from that 220+hp motor. Manuals are harsh especially your setup. And it's not even the hardest shore 94 poly.. It's 80 so it's got some give. I know the ES bushing ones transmit more vibration. Hell it survived but your sheet metal didn't!! If I ever use the 2-part stuff again I might try baking them or something before installing to help cure faster.

Yes there is a quick tool I believe out there. I'm not sure if it's for leaving the LIM on or not. Just be careful not to destroy the 8mm rocker threads, they are somewhat fragile I hear over the 10mm ones. Did you go with the comp 26986 springs? That's what I have with my cam. They sound like they allow for some decent lift/etc while being a little easier on the chain.

IsaacHayes wrote:Right, the sleeves can slide out right after they were cured, because it was not molded with smaller sleeves then the normal ones pressed in for pre-load. As long as it's not knocking around getting wallowed out it should be fine. Pretty cool it's surviving all your clutch dumps from that 220+hp motor. Manuals are harsh especially your setup. And it's not even the hardest shore 94 poly.. It's 80 so it's got some give. I know the ES bushing ones transmit more vibration. Hell it survived but your sheet metal didn't!! If I ever use the 2-part stuff again I might try baking them or something before installing to help cure faster.

Yes there is a quick tool I believe out there. I'm not sure if it's for leaving the LIM on or not. Just be careful not to destroy the 8mm rocker threads, they are somewhat fragile I hear over the 10mm ones. Did you go with the comp 26986 springs? That's what I have with my cam. They sound like they allow for some decent lift/etc while being a little easier on the chain.

Yeah that damn dogbone out lasted my frame rail AND shocktower haha.

Yes, Im going to go with the 986's. The price is harsh, but I dont need to spend extra on seats/retainers so it evens out.

You bought a cam?!?

Found my camera cable. Heres some old pics of me pulling the motor again.

Didnt get many carnage pics for some reason. Idk where they went. Ill try to get some soon. I could of sworn I took one of the broken cylinder wall...

Me in action



This is what I saw when I flipped it over and pulled the pan


Pan garbage


Sheared rod bolt on cylinder 1.






And THIS LITTE chump!!

Damn that is some carnage!