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Cut the cover and tuck it in. Works perfect. No glue. No poking the cover when you turn on your headlights or wipers.

Just sayin...haha

Eh I don't know about cutting it like that... I'll see how this goes.

woody90gtz wrote:Cut the cover and tuck it in. Works perfect. No glue. No poking the cover when you turn on your headlights or wipers.

Just sayin...haha

Show us Woody!

I'm about to install my new dash and want to keep it nice.

Ok... Here's the riddle... Pulled the valve covers off due to blue puff at startup... Found one valve seal completely off the stem... replaced ALL valve seals. Been driving it for a little while since and every startup still has a puff of smoke and if the car sits and idles it will start to lightly haze and then on initial acceleration it will puff and go away.

WHERE IS IT COMING FROM? Puff of smoke on startup really leans towards something being able to leak into the cylinders while it's sitting and not so much from ring seal... Also every cylinder registered 205PSI when I did a compression check. I know that doesn't give you a good idea of the oil ring seal but still.

I'm down to three things...

• Valve seals I got are crap and they slipped off once started up...
• Lower intake gaskets are not happy and leaking between the lower and head allowing splash oil to make it's way in...
• And of course the worse... The oil ring's are somehow f-ed up and causing the leak.

What do you guys think it is... This is driving me nuts and I'm ready to park the car for the year seeing how I feel like I just don't have the time to work on it and then make it to a drag strip this year, especially with everything else I have going on.

I would start with the valve seals.

That is the obvious culprit for oil puffs on start ups, especially after sitting for a while.

Doubt very much it is ring related unless you can isolate it to one cylinder, and how the hell would you do that?

Hell, lots of race engines puff when you first start them. Unless you are affecting local pollution levels and missing gallons of Mobil 1, run it for the rest of the summer.

Only way to cylinder isolate would be off of spark plug deposits and that's only if it burns enough to discolor them. I hate having to REDO a project I just finished... GRRRRRR

woody90gtz wrote:Cut the cover and tuck it in. Works perfect. No glue. No poking the cover when you turn on your headlights or wipers.

Just sayin...haha

PICS please.

That is what I thought he was talking about.

I like it!

So I pulled the upper intake off... The whole upper and the lower is soaked with oil... so it's coming in through the breather system somehow. I'm pulling the valve covers and re-sealing the deflectors to keep oil away from the PCV valve and the rear breather tube. Also replacing the PCV valve. I am debating pulling the lower intake and fully cleaning the lower ports since all I did was put a little LCD camera in there to see if I could see anything going on, and upon removal the whole side of the camera was drenched with oil. I looked down in the port and I could see where it was pooling in the runners... Probably wouldn't hurt to pull the lower and just be sure its not the gaskets as well, I mean I'm 95% of the way there already..

I'd be surprised to not see a breached gasket perforation.

High pressure in the crankcase?
Kind of shocking to read that post. With the way you are it seems like the last thing that could happen. Crap happens, but this is crazy strange.

Compression was 205 on every cylinder with a cold motor... Have trouble believing high crankcase pressure.

What is the piston ratio compression?

Psi compression in no way relates to volume compression... It will vary greatly with the cam you have.