Beretta.net

Yup. Here's a pic of the basic plan.



The dented floor pan is where I bashed it with the BFH for header and exhaust clearance. Exhaust tuckage is important for how low the car is going to be. No body color on the firewall though. As dark as the blue is, it would basically be a mirror, and it just makes the engine bay look chaotic.

My sis had a 80 Berlineta that color.

I like it!!! Gonna be super clean.

Well, I redid it today and still don't like how it turned out...but I'm hoping it's not so noticeable once the car is together.

Texture looks great this time, but for some reason I got solvent pop. Maybe I didn't flush the Shutz gun well enough after I cleaned it with thinner? That's the only thing I can think of. I hit it with the blow gun and also triggered the spray gun without any material in it and nothing came out. Not sure what else would cause it...

Looks less clumpy then round one did...

Your spraying Bedliner... What do you expect for a surface finish?

Looks good to me or normal to put it another way. Who is going to see it anyway?

3X00-Modified wrote:Your spraying Bedliner... What do you expect for a surface finish?

I expect the same surface finish of the bedliner under the fuel tank area that posted.

And I'll see it. I don't care if anyone else likes it, but I need to like it. haha

Well I mean bed liner is bed liner, its never going to be smooth regardless of the base finish. I know that because my engine bay isn't smooth. And then as you noted you stacked a wrinkled liner with another so yeah It's just going to compound that look.

And are you spraying color over that firewall or leaving it black?

Leaving it. The Firewall, frame, inner fenders are core support will all be Raptor Liner. I'm going to call U-Pol and see what may have caused the solvent pop. I may even end up sanding and reshooting the firewall again to get it right.

Got the car off the rotisserie finally today and made a little progress, but also found an issue.

Putting the car on the home made rotisserie was a total pain in the ass, but I got an easier way figured out for taking it off with the engine hoist. Gonna try that method on my dad's first gen that will be going on it soon. And it looks like I missed two spots on the tail panel somehow! haha Who would have thought a car on jack stands would be so exciting!




I was going to do the Herb Adams leaf perch mod and get the rear end installed. I was looking at whether there would be room for it with my Slide-A-Links and found a spot where the SAL bracket has been hitting the perch mount...even before relocating the spring eye. It appears it will clear if I cut off the end of the SAL bracket, which shouldn't reduce the strength of it I'm thinking. The U-bolt is already located by the hole on the other side. I'll have to align the flat of the nut with the clearance cut too to make sure it all works. If there are problems I can always repair the SAL bracket or probably even get a replacement straight from CE.

I did get my Delrin rear shackle bushings from CustomWorks installed at least. They were kind of a pain in the dick.




I also got the exhaust painted and the tail pipes put in since they have to be done before the rear end. Wanted a full exhaust shot before putting it in though. Mmmmmm duals with SpinTechs...haha

Did the Herb Adams spring eye relocation to modify the instant center. Pain in the dick with the SAL bars, but worth it for the extra traction (and ground clearance in my case). Nice to be hot rodding again and not sanding or shooting something!

Hookers.... wooo!

No more twirly twirl for you!

Car is back to a roller...sort of. Rear end is in and I made some sweet jackstand dollies.




Started mocking up the front end. Gonna weld in a rollbar tube under the core support for rigidity and a jacking point. Gonna hang the modified inners and make sure they mount up nice and then I can spray the subframe, inners & core support with the Raptor liner.

Cut up one spindle for the C6 brakes to test, so once I finish the other one I can clean them up and install the hubs and fit the rotors with the calipers. Found out the SPC arms require 5/16 ball joint bolts so I had to drill the stocker.

Got everything done and back on four wheels. Surprisingly, Advance Auto had GG pads (0.45-0.55 CoF) in stock for a whopping $40. That should work quite nicely. That's a friction rating equal to EBC yellowstuff @ $150. haha

Have interference on the wheel at full lock at full droop, but fine at ride height. As the steering linkage goes on, I'll see how far "full lock" actually is now, since I'm also getting tire rub on the Hotchkis swaybar (as expected).






My custom Speedhut gauges came in and I'm excited/disappointed. The quality is very nice and the electroluminescence is awesome. I like that they are all electrical gauges and the daisy chained quick connect wiring is super clean.

Unfortunately they used the wrong blue compared to what I spec'd and approved. They used the middle "Giants" blue for the dials rather than the lighter "Panthers" blue like I wanted. I double checked their emails and it is correct in the proof I approved...so we'll see what they do about it. It might be picky, but it's what I designed...and being a designer makes me a little anal about that stuff.






And I did get the car on 4 wheels. Also mocked up my rollbar tubing for under the rad support in cardboard and hoping I can get that bent at the local shop tomorrow.