Beretta.net

woody90gtz wrote:

Barry wrote:I breifly remember talking to you saturday, Its a little blurry.

I used some heat on the inner bearing races to help mine come apart easier. I didnt plan on re-using the bearings so there was really no issue with me doing that.

On a press that input shaft should move. Are you sure you took out everything you needed to before you can press them out?

Anybody jump off the roof? haha

100% positive everything is out. There's a bolt that comes in from the side for reverse, shift shaft is out, end cover is off...there is nothing left in it but the input & output shaft. I had it on the 3.5 ton press at work and the input shaft will not budge. I am going to look for and probably end up making a ring that I can use to press on the outer bearing housing rather than the shaft itself. If that doesn't work I'll light the propane torch. I have the new bearings left over from my rebuild kit so that's not a problem.

Yes actually my roomate did hit the sidewalk pretty hard but he is okay.

DONT try to press the bearings out. They go out the opposite way and you will crack the retaining ring in the trans case. I think Weba accidentally cracked his that way. The shafts and bearings press out opposite ways.

Ok, thanks for the heads up. The output shaft/bearing assembly presses out easily. (I didn't go far because it meshes with the input.) The input shaft itself is what I've been pressing on with no luck. I wonder what the issue is.

I think I have finally solved the mystery: a snap ring. I found a broken snap ring at the bottom of the input shaft right behind 4th gear. It looks to me like the snap ring broke, and 4th gear slid down the shaft letting the blocker ring lose its index with the syncro. Which would explain why it would not shift to 4th. Then as I shifted the arm on the trans with the engine off to check the shift cables it must have dropped in 4th and then never come back out. I can't see now how it was stuck in another gear (to bind it up) since it freed up last night as I pulled some of the guts out of it. I have to take the shaft to work and press 4th gear back where it should be and that should expose the groove for the snap ring. So the plan is to throw a new snap ring in, reassemble and see how it acts. Right now by holding 4th higher on the shaft so the blocker ring lines up the syncros engage 3rd & 4th nice and smooth. Gears & syncros all look great. Hopefully my spares can stay spares and I don't even need to crack them open!

Well that's great news.Sorry I wasn't much help when you called yesterday.Glad you're on the right track now. Hope to see it finished soon;)

Tried getting a hold of Jeff a few times with no returned calls or emails...so I bought the stuff I needed from VPI. Expensive, but they still have the snap ring I need and the shift shaft detent cover. I also got 5th gear pressed back where it's supposed to be, so I'm just waiting on parts for the trans.

I started installing the braided brake lines for the front calipers while I wait and wetsanded the headlights that were pretty yellowed and shitty. I'm finally gonna wire in the foglights that have just been for decoration since '09. haha

Gonna have to wait on the brake hoses til I get the subframes back in. It looks like I may have clearance issues with the FE7 endlink. The rubber hose has always been a little awkward (I think because the 91 endlink is opposite the 91 caliper, but my 92 brakes are on the same side.) Anyone have pics of a stock 90-91 FE7 setup, with or without 92+ brakes?

Ok, I found a pic of the stock setup with stock brakes, but you can't really see the hose. And with my 92+ the caliper is on the same side as the endlink, making the hose routing an issue.

You could always put the Right knuckle on the left and the left knuckle on the right and just put the caliper back out front... I thought you said it was like that by this statement.

woody90gtz wrote:I think because the 91 endlink is opposite the 91 caliper, but my 92 brakes are on the same side.

But you meant same side as the endlink right? not same side as the 91 caliper

You have to swap knuckles around to allow clearance for the caliper. I had to do this when I swapped Ribz80's car over to the 92+ brakes when I did the brakes and upgraded his suspension from FE3/Intrax to FE7/Eibachs.

That thought crossed my mind since they look swappable. But aesthetically I've never liked the caliper on the leading edge. Plus I'll lose my alignment. That is an option as a last resort though. Once I get the subframes back in I'll look at fabbing a bracket or something to hold it out of the way if possible.

Tracking number from VPI says tomorrow. Summit order should be here tomorrow too. And my new PC should be here Thursday. Woooo wooooooooooo

Shift shaft detent cover and snap ring. Doesn't look like $70 does it? Got the Global West Del-a-Lum bushings installed, too.

I need to get a set of those bushings too, my couple year old Energy Suspension ones are totally shot already.

Did you put Delrin in the rear beam as well? I remember a thread about it, but not the outcome.

Yes on my white car, very happy with them. NOS FE7 rubber rear bushing on black car.

Resurrected the thread and messaged Cack on facebook. Hopefully I get somewhere with it. Weba I think Jon (88_GTU) still has some Del-A-Lums for sale. He had them make a batch and had to buy all of them up front.

Wired the fogs in with a relay last night. Came out really clean. My new bellhousing is looking really good too. My original one cracked again right where the TIG weld was from last time. I don't think the JB was doing anything...there was some shrinkage and it was an afterthought after I studded the bellhousing. So this time I fully prepped it: degreased, pressure washed, abraded & rinsed. I got longer studs, and filled the cavity with engine block filler. It's made for exactly what I need it to do: add structure and spread the load - guaranteed no shrinkage. I have to wait a few more days for it to cure fully and then assemble the trans.

Gonna throw the subframe in there temporarily to run the braided front hoses so I can bleed brakes. I have all the fittings I need now to test brake line pressure at front & rear calipers and see if a master cylinder swap will be in order for proper bite out back with the disc swap.

The to-do list finally getting shorter.